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  #11  
Old 04-17-2011, 05:03 PM
Pat Stewart Pat Stewart is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Granbury Texas
Posts: 1,136
Default heat

I had considered both adding a scat tube to the heat shroud and directing out the bottom of the cowl and option b to remove the shroud.

Thanks guys.

Pat
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  #12  
Old 04-17-2011, 05:13 PM
Ron B. Ron B. is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Yarmouth, Nova Scotia
Posts: 2,344
Default

We replaced our air boxes with S.S. while building. Our control quadrant does not get warm , just the fuel handle.
Thanks for the help.
Ron
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  #13  
Old 04-17-2011, 07:38 PM
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TroyBranch TroyBranch is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Calgary Alberta Canada
Posts: 456
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Insulate the floor of the tunnel, the firewall in the tunnel and insulate the scat tube that is in the tunnel. My fuel selector is even cold. The only warm spot is where I could not insulate the scat that come over the spar if the heat is on. Keep the heat in the scat and the exhaust heat out at the floor and all is well.
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  #14  
Old 04-18-2011, 08:12 AM
Randy Means Randy Means is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Cocoa Florida
Posts: 43
Question Tunnel Heat

Perfect timing to discuss too much heat in the center tunnel area. My fuel selector doesn't get too hot but the sheet metal is very warm. My concern is that it could damage the wires I have routed there. It appears that the solution would be to cover the floor of the tunnel with a heat refletive material. My concern is damage to the wires.
Randy Means
N595RV
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  #15  
Old 04-18-2011, 10:27 AM
Pat Stewart Pat Stewart is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Granbury Texas
Posts: 1,136
Default Heat

The floor of my tunnel is insulated however the standard heat boxes are mounted to the firewall with no insulation between them and the firewall.

Pat
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  #16  
Old 04-18-2011, 08:26 PM
rmcgann rmcgann is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 52
Default Tunnel Heat

I have cool mat insulation on the firewall and the floor of the tunnel. My tunnel does get very warm to hot (my wife can't place her leg against it, but I have no trouble.) Seems to be very much affected by outside air temperature (ie more noticeable in the summer at low altitude - certainly more comfortable with cooler OAT).

My standard aluminium heat vents are mounted directly to the firewall- I will try insulating them and see what happens.

cheers
Ron
VH-XRM flying in Oz
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  #17  
Old 04-19-2011, 01:30 PM
bcondrey bcondrey is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Bellevue, NE
Posts: 523
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Ron,

Don't underestimate dealing with the gaps created by slop in the valve hinges. Building up a small air dam will go a long ways toward dealing with that. It's actually hot air from the opposite side feed that gets under the flap.

Between some sort of insulator between the valves and firewall and some RTV to deal with the above you'll solve most of the problem. Since you've got to take the valves off to install the insulation, consider just upgrading to stainless steel at the same time. The flapper and hinge are much better and don't have sealing issues.

Bob
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  #18  
Old 04-20-2011, 07:24 AM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcondrey View Post
Ron,

consider just upgrading to stainless steel at the same time. The flapper and hinge are much better and don't have sealing issues.

Bob
Who's product do you recommend?
Thanks
Bill
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  #19  
Old 04-20-2011, 07:54 AM
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Auburntsts Auburntsts is offline
 
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Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 2,833
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There's only one source that I know of for SS heat vents: http://www.planeinnovations.com/
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  #20  
Old 04-20-2011, 08:16 AM
fehdxl fehdxl is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Bellevue, NE
Posts: 685
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Auburntsts View Post
There's only one source that I know of for SS heat vents: http://www.planeinnovations.com/
Avery Tools also has them: http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=9884 Probably the same thing though.
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