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  #21  
Old 07-08-2008, 11:14 PM
tin man tin man is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: northern california
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
Your milage may vary

Your right...because there are so many variables.
That's why a general statement such as this is not always valid.
Your RV-3 probably has a polyester/white gelcoat cowl, and probably a conical mount engine? The polyester cowls are much more flexible than the epoxy prepreg ones that are used now, and conical mounts are much more subseptable to sag under G load compared to dynafocal. Even then I am surprised you had contact with 3/16".
Do you pull 6 G's regularly?
It is a polyester cowl 1996 vintage, dynafocal mount, really don't pull many g's at all. Like i said YMMV. Scott, why did you have to rebuild your RV6?
cheers
tin man

Last edited by tin man : 07-08-2008 at 11:18 PM.
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  #22  
Old 07-09-2008, 09:14 AM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tin man View Post
I don't think 1/8 is enough. When you fly air loads will push the lower cowl up and when yo pull a few g's the engine will sag a bit. I have about 3/16 on my RV3, acro mounts, 0320, light wood prop, and after a couple of hundred hours the spinner started to wear agroove in the lower cowl.
Your milage may vary
tm
Actually, if this is true, then 1/8" at the top with 3/16" at the bottom would seem to work fine. If bottom cowl gets pushed up by air loads, the top cowl gets pushed back, away from the spinner. Likewise, if the engine sags, the 1/8" at the top will increase while the 3/16" at the bottom will decrease.

The numbers above are where I'm at right now. Van's says anywhere 1/8" - 3/8" is fine, so I should be OK where I'm at--especially if I get a little sag. If anyone has any other thoughts with this, I'm interested in hearing them.
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Ellensburg WA
RV-9 Flying, 0-320, Catto

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Last edited by alpinelakespilot2000 : 07-09-2008 at 09:20 AM.
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  #23  
Old 07-09-2008, 06:29 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 8,742
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tin man View Post
Scott, why did you have to rebuild your RV6?
cheers
tin man
I bought an RV-6A that someone else wrecked in a bad landing.
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Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.

Scott McDaniels
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop Manager
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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  #24  
Old 06-08-2019, 12:31 PM
FinnFlyer FinnFlyer is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Bell, FL
Posts: 292
Default Can someone post the picture?

Quote:
Originally Posted by LifeofReiley View Post
Steve,

The article is in the 4th issue of 2007. page 15
Unfortunately RVator 2007 and later issues are not included in 27 Years of the RVator and this link to past issues on Van's website is currently broken: https://shop.vansaircraft.com/public/RVator.htm

Does anyone have the PDF file of that issue or can post the picture of how to cut the lower cowl to make it easier to remove?

Finn
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N46AZ RV3-B Mazda 13B EFI -- Bought -- Flying
N993FL RV-3A Mazda 13B NA 575 hours

Last edited by FinnFlyer : 06-08-2019 at 04:04 PM.
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  #25  
Old 06-12-2019, 08:38 AM
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Raymo Raymo is offline
 
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Location: Richmond Hill, GA (KLHW)
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As requested from this other thread...



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Ray
RV-7A - Slider - N495KL - First flt 27 Jan 17
O-360-A4M w/ AFP FM-150 FI, Dual PMags, Vetterman Trombone Exh, SkyTech starter, BandC Alt (PP failed after 226 hrs)
Catto 3 blade NLE, FlightLines Interior, James cowl, plenum & intake, Anti-Splat -14 seat mod and nose gear support
All lines by TSFlightLines (aka Hoser)
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  #26  
Old 06-12-2019, 08:54 AM
FinnFlyer FinnFlyer is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Bell, FL
Posts: 292
Default RV-4

On the RV-4 it looks like I may be able to cut a larger opening for the gear sockets/legs, pull the rear side hinges out to clear the fuselage sides, slide the cowl back and then down and out. So, between the diagonal cut at the front and bigger gear leg openings at the rear, it looks like the lower cowl can be fit pretty tight to the spinner too.

The top cowl should lift straight up after bending the lower rear part of the cowl out to the sides (clearing lower sections of firewall hinges). Of course this requires that hinges are offset enough that they will clear the lower cowling side and top forward skin (Section P-P on Drawing #43).

Finn
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N993FL RV-3A Mazda 13B NA 575 hours
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