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Old 06-27-2018, 12:55 PM
rvator10 rvator10 is offline
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Fountain Hills, arizona
Posts: 98
Default Wire harness Molex connector help

Vans RV14 fuselage harness is north of $1500, and so I would like to build my own, with small changes to accommodate my specific needs.
Iím having trouble locating the tail-cone/wings interface Molex connectors that would normally come on the Vans generic fuselage harness.
The drawing has PNs like: ES-00013, ES-00009, ES-00010, ES-00042, ES-00044, ES-00045, ES-00143 and ES-00144.
I only see Vans sells a couple of the PNs but not all of them.
Do you think the ES-xxxxx is the Molex number or Vans?
Any suggestions how to find the mate connectors to the Tail-cone harness/Wings harnesses?
I have located web sites that have hundreds to look through, but this is very confusing and questioning the correct selection.
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Old 06-27-2018, 01:21 PM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ponte Vedra, FL
Posts: 970

Call SteinAir. They make the harnesses and also are a great source for wiring, connectors etc
Turner Billingsley
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Old 06-27-2018, 03:24 PM
Carl Froehlich's Avatar
Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is online now
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 2,030

I strongly recommend you do not try to duplicate the Vanís wiring harness - but specifically do not use those little miniature molex connectors he has for the trim servos. Just wire it the way you want - as in something that make sense to you.

Call Stein and ask what connectors he recommends.

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Old 06-27-2018, 07:14 PM
Stockmanreef Stockmanreef is offline
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Midland, mi
Posts: 707

I started replacing some of the micromolex connectors with the following:

worked great for the connection to the elevator trim.
Ken Stockman
Midland, MI
EAA Chapter 1093 member

RV-14 (serial number 140073)
N73XP (at least that # reserved now)
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Old 07-01-2018, 12:21 AM
RV-14E's Avatar
RV-14E RV-14E is offline
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Colorado
Posts: 154

The airframe is provisioned for Molex series 1360, 1292 connectors.

And example of the tail harness which I wired looks like this:

I have the part numbers for the receptacles, plugs and pins here, complete with links to DigiKey:

The Molex that plugs in to WH-00057 (Aft Fuselage Harness) plugs in to this:

Part numbers for the wing root wiring can be found here on my wire map image on that page:

They look like this (I added the additional 6-pin Molex for my GRT roll servo and is not necessary if you're following the plans):

Part numbers for the canopy harness Molex connectors can be found here my wire map image on that page (they are the same as for the tail harness, but I have both the plug and receptacle listed there):

It looks like this:

The elevator trim is a micro Molex type. I used the same style connector for wiring my LEMO connectors, outlined in the link below. In the wire map image, the part numbers are identified. However, the aft deck uses a snap-in panel mount (which I didn't used for my LEMO connectors since it isn't necessary there). That part number is 0430200600 and can be found here.

They look like these:

For crimping the bigger Molex pins, I used this:

For the micro Molex pins, I used this:

Last edited by RV-14E : 07-01-2018 at 10:10 AM.
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Old 07-01-2018, 06:49 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is online now
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,862

I really hate molex style connectors; I saw many failures in a couple of different electronics related careers. With the -14, it might be the path of least resistance to use the as-designed connectors (I assume they have pre-punched mounting holes, etc). But on anything I built, I'd find a way to use sub-D connectors. The machined pins (crimp style) are rated at up to 7 amps, and with 'ballasting', multiple pins can be paralleled for higher currents. There are few circuits in an RV that need more than 7 amps, and fewer that need more than 14.

Do you see any molex stuff on the back of your latest avionics?

Just a FWIW...
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Old 07-01-2018, 07:43 AM
flion's Avatar
flion flion is offline
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 2,516

D-subs are Ok but CPCs are usually better, IMHO. Aircraft Spruce only sells a few varieties but places like Digikey and Mouser can get you whatever you want. In the rudder I have a 4-pin CPC, for example. You can get bulkhead-mount CPCs as well, which I am using for my wing wiring connections, amongst other applications. Why do I prefer CPCs? They lock together firmly but can be unlocked by hand more easily than undoing the screws that lock D-subs together. They can also accommodate larger wire gauges. And I have even found sealed (expensive) CPCs for firewall use.

BTW, those part numbers in the original post are Van's (ES for Electrical System). If you search for molex, you will often find what you want under AMP connectors instead. Those kind of connectors aren't bad but I find their locking mechanisms are sometimes difficult and have also seen old ones get brittle.
Patrick Kelley - Flagstaff, AZ
RV-6A N156PK - Flying too much to paint
RV-10 14MX(reserved) - Fuselage on gear
EAA Technical Counselor #5357
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Old 07-01-2018, 07:57 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is online now
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,862

Agree on the tedious screw-locking mechanism for subDs, but for inline service, you can get a spring 'bale' connection that just requires flipping two spring-wire loops to lock or unlock. And in an RV, the intervals between opening those joints should be measured in years; not days.

For low pin count, round connectors are fine. But once you get past a half dozen or so pins, assembling (or more important, maintenance/modding at a later date) can get to be a real pain. I assembled some 'Cannon' style milspec connectors (solder cup style, around 80 pins) many years ago. Never want to do it again.

edit: Are the cpc pins/sockets gold plated? Machined, or stamped?

Last edited by rv7charlie : 07-01-2018 at 08:03 AM.
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Old 07-01-2018, 09:15 AM
Tom Martin Tom Martin is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,469

If you are winging the plane yourself, particularly the tail, there really is no need for connecters. Leave a six or eight inch service loop. Test the trim to make sure it works right then wire directly to the elevator. Should you have to remove the tail you have the service loop for extra wire, or you could put a connector in at that time. Fewer connections means less wiring errors, less potential for future corrosion etc. I am sure that if you purchase a wiring harness from Stein, if you do not do your own, they could add the extra wire at little extra cost.
My rocket tail has been off once in 12 years and the service loop made it easy to hook back up, still without the need of a connector.
Tom Martin RV1 pilot 4.6hours!
CPL & IFR rated
EVO F1 Rocket 1000 hours,
2010 SARL Rocket 100 race, average speed of 238.6 knots/274.6mph
RV4, RV7, RV10, two HRIIs and five F1 Rockets
RV14 Tail dragger

Fairlea Field
St.Thomas, Ontario Canada, CYQS
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Old 01-30-2019, 06:33 AM
control control is offline
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Stockholm, Sweden
Posts: 672

I now consider the purchase of the main wire harness as my biggest mistake in this build!

- It is to short at the panel to allow for service loops
- In trying to allow for many brands of EFIS etc. it is not really good for any
- Some wires are not shielded that should really be shielded
- The wires to the sticks and the way you are supposed to lay them... its just a mess, I am ripping that part of the harness out now

If there was a few ready options similar to what's available for the RV12 then I would be onboard but now it is just a non-optimised confusing mess...

... now I feel better
RV-14 kit #140138
Flight testing
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