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Rattle Can Interior Paint Photos?

mattsrv7

Well Known Member
Do folks have any good photos of what completed interiors look like with rattle can paint and what color/brand was used?

I tried the Rust-Oleum Smoke Grey a few folks said they used and it seemed a little too glossy. Enough so that I removed the paint from the parts I did today.

I've tested a satin coastal gray that is flat but basically looks like primer and the Rust-Oleum hammered finish. I kind of like the hammered finish but can't find any good photos showing what it looks like over a larger area or completed RV-7/-9 interior.

I've seen a few older threads searching but couldn't find any good photos of the results.
 
I used Rust-Oleum textured grey paint on my panel and baked it on low heat for four hours (when my wife wasn't home). It has held up very well over the past 12 years.

For the interior, I used a semi-gloss grey. Don't recall the numbers but it too has held up well.

The trick to getting a good paint job with rattle cans is to buy a trigger handle that goes on the cans, set the can in front of a small space heater, shake the can, put it back in front of the heater (have one can heating, while painting with the other). After every two passes with the spray can, dab the excess paint off the nozzle with a paper towel. Just like using a regular spray gun, stop spraying at the end of each pass, the distance from the subject and speed at which you move the can are very important.

Good luck!
 
There are flat clear rattle can paints that can be used to topcoat other paints. Might be worth considering. I think Rust-Oleum sells some.

Dave
 
Just a contrarian side note.

If you go through all the trouble of prepping the interior for paint, the paint part is easy in comparison.

I have never had any decent results using rattle cans - on anything. What I do:
- Prep the interior (scotchbrite and Coleman fuel).
- Prime with the same primer I use for everything, PPG DP40LF. One coat.
- Top coat with PPG single stage urethane paint. One coat.
- I use a Harbor Freight HVLP gun for interior and exterior painting. For whatever reason (probably me) I have better results with it than the way expensive guns.

I use a medium gray for the interior, a dark gray for the panel, rudder pedals and engine baffles. All gloss. I?ve never had a gloss reflection problem in either the RV-8 or RV-10, but cannot comment on other RVs.

The paint on my first plane looks as good as it did 19 yeas ago when I painted it.

Carl
 
I used Rustoleum professional primer(Gray 7582) and then Rustoleum High-Performance Enamel(Light Machine Gray 7581) for the interior of my RV8.

The panel is Flat Black(7578).

I think it looks decent and it has been rather durable in the first 100hrs.

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I elected to spray the rims on my 911 project last year with this exact paint rather than having them professionally powder coated. Thinking was what the heck, $30 worth of paint I'm not out much if it doesn't hold up. Well guess what...it holds up great. I sprayed it on with no primer but I did scuff and clean the rims with scotchbrite. I drive the car all the time.
 
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base coat /clear coat rattle cans

produced an excellent and very durable finish.
For the base coat, used a Sherwin Williams light grey, chosen from a Sherwin Williams color chip to match the seats, and Spray Max 2K clear coat, semi matte. Both are rattle cans. The clear coat is a two part rattle can. Before use, it is activated by puncturing a separate compartment in the bottom of the can, once activated has a pot life of 48 hours. Result is a very hard semigloss finish.
Bill
 
If you go the Rust-Oleum hammered finish get the "Forged finish" cans. They are a few bucks more but the results are way better. I started with the "hammered" and the cans spray was very blotchy, the Forged versions spray way better.
 
Do folks have any good photos of what completed interiors look like with rattle can paint and what color/brand was used?

I tried the Rust-Oleum Smoke Grey a few folks said they used and it seemed a little too glossy. Enough so that I removed the paint from the parts I did today.

I've tested a satin coastal gray that is flat but basically looks like primer and the Rust-Oleum hammered finish. I kind of like the hammered finish but can't find any good photos showing what it looks like over a larger area or completed RV-7/-9 interior.

I've seen a few older threads searching but couldn't find any good photos of the results.

Perhaps more importantly, see what they look like after 3-400 hours of flying.
 
SEM

Used SEM self etch primer (gray) only. Very durable finish. I liked the light gray color. 200 hours and still bonding well. No scratches.
 
A friend of mine has a restored warbird that was done something on the order of 30 plus years ago. At the time the interior was painted with rattle cans because that was what was available and in the budget. It has held up amazingly well given how much the aircraft flies and the best part is the color is still made so when there is need to repaint for wear or a scratch it blends in and you don't notice the repair.
 
I gave the Rust-Oleum Hammered Grey (7214830) finish a try and like the result for the first parts.

The second can I bought yielded a much darker color. Is this common with the rattle cans or do you just need to buy a bunch of cans from the same batch? I can buy a quart and just use a spray gun but that kind of defeats the purpose of the spray can convenience.
 
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I'm going with Rust-Oleum Annodized Bronze for my interior. It's kind of a dark brown. Plane is not finished yet but so far happy with it. I've been painting the interior pieces as I build rather than doing it all after the plane is put together:

 
Thanks for all the feedback. I tried the hammered finish but ended up going with the Annodized Bronze. The semi-gloss looks good and seems pretty easy to apply.
 
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I'm going with Rust-Oleum Annodized Bronze for my interior. It's kind of a dark brown. Plane is not finished yet but so far happy with it. I've been painting the interior pieces as I build rather than doing it all after the plane is put together:

That looks really nice Ryan! Did you put some sort of primer underneath the Bronze and rattle-can clear coat over the bronze?

Thanks,
 
That looks really nice Ryan! Did you put some sort of primer underneath the Bronze and rattle-can clear coat over the bronze?

Thanks,

Thanks, yes I primed all the parts with Stuart Systems EkoPrime, then once it?s thoroughly dried I do one or two coats of the paint, and that?s it. Then wait 24 hours for the paint to dry before riveting. My main motivations for going rattle-can for the interior:

1. Cost (less than $5/can)
2. I?ll likely put some kind of interior or carpet, covering much of it anyway
3. I?m a klutz during building and am always dropping parts and screws on the finish so I wanted something I could touch-up easily. The can is easy and the dark color hides a lot.
 
I'm in the Rust-Oleum camp. I've used their self-etching metal primer, followed up with their High Performance enamel in satin gray with great results.

It has held up under daily use.

I suspect that as with most paints, the majority of the durability comes from the preparation and application. Do that right, and as long as it's a decent paint, it will wear fine.
 
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