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  #1  
Old 02-19-2018, 08:31 PM
Tacco Tacco is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: White Salmon, WA
Posts: 35
Default Installing SB 18-02-02

Starting this tomorrow, studying the instructions tonight.

What is the measurement on Figure 8 about center page ( “1/2”). Looks like an arrow is missing(?). Looks like it refers to distance of forward hole to be drilled in WD-1027..but from what reference point? Also, in drilling these holes through the horn(6 of them), The intent appears to be to drill into the spar cap as well, even though these holes (in the spar cap) will not be filled with a rivet. Only the horn and the doubler will be riveted. I assume this is because of the difficulty in avoiding drilling HS-1232 and WD-1027 separated from the spar and the necessity of keeping the HS-1232 doubler aligned.

Steve
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  #2  
Old 02-20-2018, 07:52 AM
Jim T Jim T is online now
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Independence, OR
Posts: 199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tacco View Post
Starting this tomorrow, studying the instructions tonight.

What is the measurement on Figure 8 about center page ( “1/2”). Looks like an arrow is missing(?). Looks like it refers to distance of forward hole to be drilled in WD-1027..but from what reference point? Also, in drilling these holes through the horn(6 of them), The intent appears to be to drill into the spar cap as well, even though these holes (in the spar cap) will not be filled with a rivet. Only the horn and the doubler will be riveted. I assume this is because of the difficulty in avoiding drilling HS-1232 and WD-1027 separated from the spar and the necessity of keeping the HS-1232 doubler aligned.

Steve
Good question about the "1/2" Steve. The two measurements needed for locating the holes in WD-1207 are already on the drawing. It looks like your assumption about the spar cap is correct. I don't see why the WD-1207 Stabilator Horn can't be removed, marked and drilled on the drill press. Then remounted, the HS-01232 put in place, match drilled and clecoed. Then just drill through WD-1207 just enough to mark the location of the holes in HS-01232. Remove HS-01232 and drill it on the drill press. That way the Spar Cap doesn't need to be drilled into.

I'm ordering my SB-18-02-02 and SB-18-02-03 kits today so will be anxious to see how this goes for you.

Jim
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  #3  
Old 02-20-2018, 08:56 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 7,572
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tacco View Post
Starting this tomorrow, studying the instructions tonight.

What is the measurement on Figure 8 about center page ( “1/2”). Looks like an arrow is missing(?). Looks like it refers to distance of forward hole to be drilled in WD-1027..but from what reference point? Also, in drilling these holes through the horn(6 of them), The intent appears to be to drill into the spar cap as well, even though these holes (in the spar cap) will not be filled with a rivet. Only the horn and the doubler will be riveted. I assume this is because of the difficulty in avoiding drilling HS-1232 and WD-1027 separated from the spar and the necessity of keeping the HS-1232 doubler aligned.

Steve
It looks like one of the lead lines accidentally got deleted from the figure, and will be corrected.
The measurement reference is intended to be the edge of the flange of the HS-1202.
Even without that reference, there is enough info to properly place the holes because the center hole can be seen aligned with the center hole in the HS-01232, and the outer two holes are equal distant from the center hole with the distance between them specified.
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  #4  
Old 02-20-2018, 09:01 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim T View Post
Good question about the "1/2" Steve. The two measurements needed for locating the holes in WD-1207 are already on the drawing. It looks like your assumption about the spar cap is correct. I don't see why the WD-1207 Stabilator Horn can't be removed, marked and drilled on the drill press. Then remounted, the HS-01232 put in place, match drilled and clecoed. Then just drill through WD-1207 just enough to mark the location of the holes in HS-01232. Remove HS-01232 and drill it on the drill press. That way the Spar Cap doesn't need to be drilled into.

I'm ordering my SB-18-02-02 and SB-18-02-03 kits today so will be anxious to see how this goes for you.

Jim
There is no structural concern about having the 6 unused holes in the top web of the spar box, but the process you described would be fine also....
as long as all 6 holes remain accurately aligned.
Even one poor fitting hole will degrade the benefits attained by the doubler.
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  #5  
Old 02-20-2018, 09:12 AM
Jim T Jim T is online now
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Independence, OR
Posts: 199
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Thanks for the clarification Scott.

Jim
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2006 Rans S-6S Coyote (flying)
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  #6  
Old 02-20-2018, 09:15 AM
Azjulian Azjulian is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Posts: 130
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when you remove the stabilator for this SB do you need to loosen the barrel lock on the cables to remove an replace or can you maintain that adjustment and confirm tension post install ? wondering if I need to order new barrel locking clips
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  #7  
Old 02-20-2018, 09:28 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Originally Posted by Azjulian View Post
when you remove the stabilator for this SB do you need to loosen the barrel lock on the cables to remove an replace or can you maintain that adjustment and confirm tension post install ? wondering if I need to order new barrel locking clips
It is possible to do the installation without loosening the cable tension but many people may find it easiest to first relieve the cable tension so they should also get new lock clips.
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  #8  
Old 02-20-2018, 10:32 AM
Tacco Tacco is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: White Salmon, WA
Posts: 35
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Thanks everyone. Doesn’t seem all that hard. Will let you know how it goes.
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  #9  
Old 02-20-2018, 01:12 PM
Azjulian Azjulian is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Posts: 130
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its not hard to install the stabilator if you are able to rest it on a surface that brings the hinges in line with the tail section. otherwise installing the washers is very tricky
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  #10  
Old 02-20-2018, 03:14 PM
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Piper J3 Piper J3 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Hinckley, Ohio
Posts: 879
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Does anyone know the P/N for the barrel locking clips?
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80 hrs Flying Aeronca Chief 11AC
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RV-12 E-LSA #120058 AWC Jul 2012 - Bought Flying Oct 2015 with 48TT - Hobbs now 350

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