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Rudder rigging question

wirejock

Well Known Member
I got the rudder rigged but there's a dimension I can't find. Vans manual says to rig it so the horizontal gap between the counterbalance and VS skin is equal. Got that. Measures. .170" along the gap, both sides.
I can't find a dimension for the other gap between the forward end of the counterbalance and tje VS skin and fiberglass tip . Currently .125" to the metal edge. I can tighten it or open it by equal adjustment of all three bearings, but what should it measure?
I can't adjust the deflection till that gap is set.
Anyone?
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I remember making a lot adjustments here, one to set them up to install the tips, and then again when mounting the VS to the fuse to align the hinge brackets vertical, the bottom part of VS is flexible until the forward bracket is mounted on the fuse, then again for swing clearance, then again to confirm rudder swings in final assembly with no binding. So to answer you question........:rolleyes: I'm sure there is a professional answer, I have heard one spec from a racer, and another from an A&P.....sorry.
 
What?

I remember making a lot adjustments here, one to set them up to install the tips, and then again when mounting the VS to the fuse to align the hinge brackets vertical, the bottom part of VS is flexible until the forward bracket is mounted on the fuse, then again for swing clearance, then again to confirm rudder swings in final assembly with no binding. So to answer you question........:rolleyes: I'm sure there is a professional answer, I have heard one spec from a racer, and another from an A&P.....sorry.

Bret! I was countin' on you man! No biggie. I'll hold off on adjusting the rudder stop till final rigging. One more thing added to the 90% left to do!
 
Larry, sage advice fromBret on the helm adjustment as the VS gets bolted to the fuse.

On your original question. I don't think trying to adjust the rudder horn gap via the helm joints is prudent, as the pivots already set the swing angle and intersect with the skin. I set the swing, then glassed the tip and filed the skin for the desired gap. I think mine was .125" + thinking that any debris accumulation (ice??) there would affect rudder swing. I wrapped some sandpaper (spaced with some baffle material) around the tip of the rudder horn and swept the rudder to sand the glass/filler and get the gap consistent. Leading edge of the rudder horn is not a nice radius, but the facing surface of the tip should be.

Some research and thinking might lead you to a clearance other than 1/8", but not less.
 
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Thanks

Larry, sage advice fromBret on the helm adjustment as the VS gets bolted to the fuse.

On your original question. I don't think trying to adjust the rudder horn gap via the helm joints is prudent, as the pivots already set the swing angle and intersect with the skin. I set the swing, then glassed the tip and filed the skin for the desired gap. I think mine was .125" + thinking that any debris accumulation (ice??) there would affect rudder swing. I wrapped some sandpaper (spaced with some baffle material) around the tip of the rudder horn and swept the rudder to sand the glass/filler and get the gap consistent. Leading edge of the rudder horn is not a nice radius, but the facing surface of the tip should be.

Some research and thinking might lead you to a clearance other than 1/8", but not less.

Yea. I was just messing with Bret. It was one of those Doh! moments. I'll save the tweaking for final fit. Thanks Bill.
 
Good times :D I did so much work on the tips to make them look like they go together, it was like they were for different airplanes, lots of fill and block sanding......but carful to not add weight in the wrong place to try and maintain design balance. I originally trimmed the rudder bottom cap at the scribe mark and blended with lots of work for paint, 2 months work. then found out I need to wait until it was mounted on the fuse to line up with the fuse bottom :eek: but later found out it was all good, big scare there for a min.
 
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