Fiberglass Help

I have looked and can't find what it is you can put between
two pieces of fiberglass so you can work on one piece, say putting
filler and it won't stick to the other with the covering on it.
I thought I had seen someone say something like saran wrap, but I
know that's not right.
So what can you use to cover something and the resin not stick to it?

Thanks

Clear packing tape.

Bert,
Just about anything slick will work. Even saran wrap. as aerhed mentioned clear packing tape works great. I also usually wax it to help with release. Just don't get the wax on anything you want it to stick to.

Fantastic

So I can tape my oil door with clear packing tape,
and I want to build a better ledge for it to sit on in the cowling.
I can then secure it in place in the cowling, with the tape on it,
glass in a new ledge from the inside of the cowling then when dry,
remove door and sand smooth the new ledge.
It will work like that?

Many thanks

Wax

I waxed my door, applied tape on the outside to hold door flush and in position, glassed from inside, allow to cure- pop the door out- Presto! Perfect fit! Then mount hinge and latch.

Thanks

Thanks Danny, that's what I needed to hear.
One thing, what are you calling "wax"?
Remember, I don't know nothing.

Thanks

Bayou Bert said:

....It will work like that?

Click to expand...

Yes, exactly like that. However, don't forget to tape the cracks between the hatch and the cowl, too, lest the epoxy form a bond there.

Dave

Wax

Bert I used some Johnson's paste wax- I think its actually for floors- brush on a heavy layer and go to it. I think any paste wax would work.

Wax

You can find a variety of mold release waxes on amazon and such.

Real mold release, the dark green PVA stuff, can be washed off with water - just water - and a bit of rubbing or scrubbing. I'd definitely use it instead of paste wax.

Dave

We often use aluminium (aluminum?) tape on smaller parts. It sticks and conforms well to the shape. It also works well for holding something like an oil door firmly in position when forming a recessed flange on the fibreglass cowl. Use some sort of release agent (wax,PVA or similar) and you are good to go. Tape can be removed easily and discarded after the job is done.

BTW you may be able to beg or buy a small amount of release agent from a local fibreglassing company if you ask nicely. We occasionally have people come in wanting small amounts of ...whatever.. to complete a little job they are doing at home. Cash or beer usually does it.

Clive Whittfield
Auckland
New Zealand

Epoxy release

Bert, all of the responses are good solutions. A material I have used extensively on my canopy skirt fab is polyethylene film. Garage bag, dry cleaner bag, painters film etc. These films are easily conformable and release is 100% easy...Larry

Thank You Everyone

Many Thanks for all the suggestions and help.
I feel like a Dummy, I didn't know the forum had a fiberglass section! Duh!
And it's loaded with great stuff I would like to get the nerve up to try.
Dan's article about repairing a gap on the cowl edge is one I would like to
try. One of my top cowl corners could use some help.
Again, Thanks to everyone, I am starting to feel that if I stand high enough,
I can see the finish line.

Hot Glue to hold parts while glassing

I don't find tape all that good for holding parts in place during glassing operations. Hot glue (from an electrically heated glue gun) is much better. You generally get a few seconds to finesse the position before it sets, particularly if you start by tacking them together with spots of glue. Then you can go back to finish any seams.

I have used it successfully to fill paint gaps temporarily while I glass over the top (like in the oil door scenario). I just make sure to overfill the gap and then shave it back level with a craft knife after it sets. I also tried modeling clay here but it is messier and doesn't help in holding the parts rigid.

You will need some kind of pick or a small flat-blade screwdriver to get it out of crevices, but it will come out and it leaves no residue.

For masking flat areas, as others have said, tape,wax and PVA mould release, or anything else thats slick or slimy to the touch, all work well.

Oil Door Mess

I have been working on the ledge for the oil door. I cut out the opening
and left almost 1/2" to start for the ledge. But the glass is so thin, that
the oil door is thicker than the ledge.
So at this point, I guess the best thing is to cut the ledge completely off
and secure the door in place flush with outside of cowl, and build a ledge
with glass cloth and resin around the seam inside the cowl.
Anyone see it any different before I cut the ledge?
Wore hole through the glass sanding to get the door to fit flush on the outside. This cowlings been a bear from the start.