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Rudder Pedal Comfort

Zero4Zulu

Well Known Member
I've not heard anyone mention the fact that the rudder pedals aren't on center to the control stick or your crotch. The first thing I noticed when I flew a friends RV6A years ago was that the rudder pedals didn't feel like they were in a natural position. At least for me... I made these rudder pedal extensions with a couple inch over hang for the inside pedals. Seems way better sitting in the plane.
 
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One thing I noticed flying a friend's RV-6 was that the brake pedal part of the rudder pedals was very vertical, and I had to very consciously strain to pull my toes toward me to keep off the brakes during landing.

I know that many people put various pedal extensions on the bottom tube of the rudder pedal, at least partly to help resolve this, but if you are building, consider mounting the brake pedals with some forward inclination so your feet can rest in a more natural position.
 
Inclination limit?

One thing I noticed flying a friend's RV-6 was that the brake pedal part of the rudder pedals was very vertical, and I had to very consciously strain to pull my toes toward me to keep off the brakes during landing.

I know that many people put various pedal extensions on the bottom tube of the rudder pedal, at least partly to help resolve this, but if you are building, consider mounting the brake pedals with some forward inclination so your feet can rest in a more natural position.

Does anyone know what would be, or how to work out, the most forward limit for inclining the brake pedals so as to avoid hitting the firewall with full rudder + full brake, depending of course on the position of the pedal mounting uhmw blocks?
 
ZeroForZulu, yes, the first time sitting in a 6 & 7 gives one that feel... the 2nd time you won't even notice. Like in many of those European sports cars.
As for your extensions be vary of pushing on the vertical member iso the brake pedal, this just when you need it...

As mentioned by others, most have some kind of extension on the lower tube, below the pedal only.
 
I think this is a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. After flying my RV-6 for twenty years I've never noticed the pedals don't line up exactly....wish you hadn't told me that...... ;)

I don't like having your foot positioned so it doesn't have full contact on the brake pedal. I suggest you remove the pedal extensions.
 
The funny thing is that I almost never have my feet on the pedals "proper". I am always on the outside "uptubes". My transition instructor recommended this to avoid any inadvertent brake application when landing. I shift over to apply the brakes.

Even so, I zip-tied some split heater hose on the lower tubes to give some standoff and corresponding pedal angle. Seems fine and been that way for 12 years.
 
The funny thing is that I almost never have my feet on the pedals "proper". I am always on the outside "uptubes". My transition instructor recommended this to avoid any inadvertent brake application when landing. I shift over to apply the brakes.

Even so, I zip-tied some split heater hose on the lower tubes to give some standoff and corresponding pedal angle. Seems fine and been that way for 12 years.

I tried that technique (foot contact on the up-tubes) also. I have fairly large feet, and I found that the contact point was well up on the up-tubes, so fairly close to the rotation pivots. The pedal effort was very high and motion very small.

Everyone gets used to what they have. We are very adaptable creatures. I'm just suggesting to new builders that building in a nice feature (more pedal inclination) may make sense. And yes, pay attention to firewall clearance at full rudder plus full brake. Basically, you get to decide where you drill the hole that attaches the master cylinder to the pedal. That is what determines the angle.
 
Footwear

I had been using 'Race Car' type shoes with flat bottoms because of the angle of the pedals. Shoes with an arch end up resting right at the bottom tube on my RV-6 and make it harder to avoid putting pressure on the brakes. Adding the hose to each tube like was mentioned definitely helps.

The slight offset has never bothered me though.
 
Basically, you get to decide where you drill the hole that attaches the master cylinder to the pedal. That is what determines the angle.

I'm at that stage of construction now: fuselage skeleton is upside down on jig, rudder pedals are installed on bushings, and the brake pedals are swinging free ready for the 4 master cylinders to be fitted. The plans are not at all specific about the position of the brake pedals when drilling the hole to mount the master cylinder. My concern is that once that mounting hole is drilled, IT IS DONE, there is no option (with the standard kit cylinders) to reposition and change the angle of the brake pedal.
 
I'm at that stage of construction now: fuselage skeleton is upside down on jig, rudder pedals are installed on bushings, and the brake pedals are swinging free ready for the 4 master cylinders to be fitted. The plans are not at all specific about the position of the brake pedals when drilling the hole to mount the master cylinder. My concern is that once that mounting hole is drilled, IT IS DONE, there is no option (with the standard kit cylinders) to reposition and change the angle of the brake pedal.

Paul, You may have noticed, but the swinging rudder pedals R/L are not at the same angle when evenly matched up at the bottom due to one tube in front of the other at the top. This means that the brake pedal drilling is not the same for R vs. L pedal. Small difference, but I tried to line the brake pedals up with the rudder bars even at the bottom.
 
Alignment

Thanks Mark,

I was aware of the slight difference in pedal mounting angle for the front and back rudder bars, but appreciate you flagging it because it's not immediately obvious!

I have tested to see how far forward the brake pedals can be tilted... and it's not very much at all! This is due to the size of the horns on the pedals that attach the master cylinder. This picture shows the maximum tilt that is achievable while maintaining adequate mounting hole edge distance on the horn. The metal strap is simulating the master cylinder, I found it easier to clamp than fiddling around with the actual cylinders. The hole centres are 7.5" apart same as the cylinders. The hinge pins for the brake pedals are hardened steel rod (0.1875 garden edging pegs), they still need to be cut down and drilled for cotter pins.

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I'm a tall guy with long legs, so I put a lot of thought into the pedals during my build. If you have a later kit with a 7 style center tunnel, the pedals can interfere with the tunnel by just a hair, so that limited how far forward i could put the pedals.. I mounted my pedals so the forward face of the bearing block is 3.5" aft of the firewall web. I adjusted the cable links to give me the tilt I wanted. I think they came out around 3 3/8", but that is going from memory. As long as you don't run out of aft travel, then you can shorten the links for more tilt.
 
Firewall clearance

I also need leg room and I mounted the bearing blocks 4 inches from the firewall. Closer to the firewall would have been better, but I have the recess box higher up on the firewall and it intrudes almost 3.5 inches, so I needed to avoid interference between the central bearing block and the box.

I drilled an extra set of rudder bar mounting holes in case someone with shorter legs one day owns the plane after I am done with it.

I'm grateful that the Frank Justice instructions say to do all of this before the skins are on, I wouldn't want to be laying on my back trying to get all of this done later on in the build!
 
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Grove Aircraft master cylinders

Grove aircraft offers master cylinders that have adjustable length pushrods. You just screw them in or out to get the exact rudder pedal angle (tilt) that suits you. MUCH easier than trying to get all the measurements right, and you can change the adjustment anytime you want. And you don't have to add return springs.......

I have a set, and they are brilliant!

https://www.groveaircraft.com/mcpush.html

No financial affiliation with the company.
 
I think this is a solution to a problem that doesn't exist. After flying my RV-6 for twenty years I've never noticed the pedals don't line up exactly....wish you hadn't told me that...... ;)

I don't like having your foot positioned so it doesn't have full contact on the brake pedal. I suggest you remove the pedal extensions.

I am in the same same boat with more than 20-years and more than 3,400 hours and never notice.

The older -6s like I have have floor mounted rudder pedals and steel welded brake pedals. When most were built there was a large sealed lead acid battery between the right side and left side pedals so one could not do anything that changed foot position.
 
I was concerned about inadvertent application of brakes so I mocked up the horns out of thin plywood and then aluminum to tilt them foreword more. I also went with the split heater hose on the bottom bar. The most effective way to ensure no brakes on takeoff or landing is to rest my heels on the floor and just touch the bars with my toes. I didn't put in floor boards or carpet and have size ten feet so your mileage may vary.

If you've got them bled properly, the brake pedals themselves move very little.

Ed Holyoke
 
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