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Old 11-30-2017, 07:21 AM
daddyman's Avatar
daddyman daddyman is offline
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 201
Default Not sure about brakes

I noticed both sides( Rt + Lt) seem to not be releasing completely.
I have relatively new pads (Grove).

Visual inspection looks fine.

When I jack up one side, the main wheel just doesn't seem to roll as freely as it used to.

I've never experienced this issue before.

Any thoughts?

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Old 11-30-2017, 07:41 AM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Posts: 590

Not an expert but fluid level, bent line, air in the system, worn out springs, tension/torque on pedal bolts (off the top of my head). I would empty the system and re-bleed it, easiest way to start troubleshooting.
#140376 RV-14A QB IO-390 Thunderbolt
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Old 11-30-2017, 10:52 AM
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n82rb n82rb is offline
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: fort myers fl
Posts: 686

pull the calipers and make sure the pins are clean and corrosion free. I put a light coat of lubricant on them. if the pins get gunked up, the calipers cannot float like they should.

bob burns
RV-4 N82RB
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Old 11-30-2017, 12:15 PM
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smokyray smokyray is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: TX32
Posts: 1,657
Default Gimme a brake....

Originally Posted by n82rb View Post
pull the calipers and make sure the pins are clean and corrosion free. I put a light coat of lubricant on them. if the pins get gunked up, the calipers cannot float like they should.

bob burns
RV-4 N82RB
Amen to what Bob said.
Additionally, take some fine sandpaper, roll it up where it will go inside the pin holes and lightly hone the holes. Then do the same on the pins. LPS 3 or equivalent on the pins and reassemble.

Should solve your issue...

Last edited by smokyray : 12-01-2017 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 12-01-2017, 10:21 AM
664781 664781 is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Powder Springs, Ga
Posts: 268
Default Dragging Brakes

Make sure your brakes are fully releasing. Pull the top of your pedals back and see if this makes a difference. If so search springs on master cylinders. A lot of good info, that fixed mine.
Kurt Lohmueller A&P
Powder Springs, Ga
RV6A "Kurt's Toy" - Flying
RV12 - Flying - Sold
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Old 12-01-2017, 11:24 AM
fixnflyguy fixnflyguy is offline
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Winston-Salem, N.C.
Posts: 862
Default Calipers and pins..

As others have said, and I have seen it plenty,the pins need cleaned/lubed, and the piston may have light corrosion, which usually shows after pad replacement when it is pushed in deepest. Nothing "holds them out", but they need to be free to release completely.
Bill E.
41 Aeronca 65TC Defender
8A7 / Advance NC
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Old 12-01-2017, 11:33 AM
WAM120RV WAM120RV is offline
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Coventry. England
Posts: 593


Brakes stick on because of

1. Corrosion or **** in the slider system as explained by Bob.

2. Corrosion or debris between the calliper piston and seals are must to replace when you push the piston out.

3. Seizure or partial seizure of the pedal which again could be corrosion between the pedal and bearing surface. The remedy here if this is the problem is to strip and clean, there is no need for springs if this is clean, it just adds weight and complexity and while relieving does not cure the problem.

4. I am assuming that you have fitted a different type of pad to the standard shoe, if not and you have changed the shoe there could be an interference fit between the shoe an the sliders, which could be cured by a bit of filing.

Having said all that the most likely are 1 and 2. Do not start by bleeding your system this will cure nothing and will not trouble shoot anything.

Actually I am currently dealing with this same problem on a motorbike, seized pistons and sliders. This is quite a frequent problem on bikes and I had it once on my 4.

Steve Arnold

In completion stage of Loehle P5151
Built and now Flying G.BVLR Vans RV4
Rebuilt G.BDBD Tailwind
Rebuilt G BVTN Kitfox
Built G CDCD RV9A with WAM120
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Old 12-01-2017, 01:54 PM
EXflyer EXflyer is offline
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Chiloquin OR
Posts: 41

Would not use any abrasive on pins or bore, quite often they are coated and any removal of it will cause corrosion. I would clean them only all gunk should come off easily. and the bore do the same. I used to service them that way. We used a silicone lube I think or anti seze on them been a while.
Also using anything more than 400 grit is leaving scars in them that could cause additional gunk to build up.

Another item I ran into is the leading edge of the pad should have a slight champfer on it so that it will not tend to tip or bind when applied. Have found that problem not on AC but on auto or trucks at times. Just a slight champfer to take off the sharp corner.

Just the way I used to do it on certified AC not cast in stone. Boyd in Chiloquin OR under the RV highway.

Last edited by EXflyer : 12-01-2017 at 01:57 PM.
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