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  #11  
Old 01-23-2017, 05:23 PM
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Auburntsts Auburntsts is online now
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dumfries, VA
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IMO a YD is overkill and simply not required for the RV-10. I've got almost 100hrs of x/c time in my 10 in the past 15 months and I have just now gotten around to adding a rudder trim system because I got tired of keeping my foot on the pedal on 3-4 hr legs. A spring bias rudder trim is more that sufficient to handle the small amount of trim required.
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  #12  
Old 01-23-2017, 09:43 PM
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Cbull Cbull is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: austin, TX
Posts: 61
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I'm almost 4 yrs into my build and probably a couple thousand hours. I'm glad I did a slow build. I've enjoyed almost every rivet driven. There are a couple out there we will not discuss.

The past 12 months have been rough on our family, my wife was battling colon cancer. A few surgeries and lots of chemo and we are done. (all healed up and clear now).

With her out of work for a year I did some things in the build I probably would have just gone out and bought before. I did all of my interior upholstery sewing myself. I had very little money to put towards the -10 so I found creative and inexpensive ways to make upgrades.

- I made my own overhead console, learned a ton about fiberglass
- I made my own headliner fiberglass panels
- made rear window closeout trims, covered in pleather
- started, and have made great progress on wheel pants
- I did purchase aerosports 310 panel, made a few mods to it
- aerosport armrest with quadrant and all interior panels
- started wire runs. Six 3/4" conduit runs front to back.
- I'm committed to Dynon, still happy about that, and had already purchased ADAHRS, AP Servos, Pitot, ACK elt, aerosun landing/taxi/position, antennas, and various other components that should not be affected by new tech announced at this years Airventure and Oshkosh.

Now we are getting back on track and I'm working on financing to buy engine, prop, avionics and whatever is left to get er done.

I do still need the access hole for the tire pressure. Also need to upgrade to the better axle extensions. Tunnel access, and more tunnel cover splices done.

When I started my build I was barely a student pilot. Less than 10hrs. Did more flying in the past year than building and I'm now about to pass the 250 hr mark. Good things can come out of bad situations for sure.

One question to the group about rudder trim. Can a ground adjustable trim work on the -10? I could totally spend $100 and go out and get a servo and do the rudder trim tab mod at this point. I was just assuming I could install the aforementioned ground adjustable trim tab and be better off than doing nothing.
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Cory Bull
Lakeway, TX

RV-10 , Interior done, Engine and avionics remain.
Planning on (3)10" Dynon HDX, Garmin GTN 650 and PS Engineering Audio.

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  #13  
Old 01-23-2017, 10:03 PM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 733
Default YD

I think I have an email from the Garmin guys that basically says what was stated in the previous post...the YD is there not as a trim tab but to control the small yaw oscillations.

I was contemplating adding it but then considered the price of the mount and the price of another servo. Check it out but be prepared for sticker shock!
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  #14  
Old 01-23-2017, 10:25 PM
BobTurner BobTurner is online now
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livermore, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cbull View Post
One question to the group about rudder trim. Can a ground adjustable trim work on the -10? I could totally spend $100 and go out and get a servo and do the rudder trim tab mod at this point. I was just assuming I could install the aforementioned ground adjustable trim tab and be better off than doing nothing.
I have a fixed wedge, not adjustable, for rudder trim, and am perfectly happy with it. (Started with a pine one taped on. Cut it trial and error until it was the right length. Then made a foam and fiberglass one the same size, epoxied it on.)
Yes I need to hold rudder in a climb but the forces are light.
Edit. I don't have a yaw damper, no plans to add one. But I don't ride in back, either.
PS2: If you want an adjustable trim, take a look at the system that adds adjustable springs to the rudder pedals. No messing with the rudder.

Last edited by BobTurner : 01-23-2017 at 10:31 PM.
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  #15  
Old 01-23-2017, 10:34 PM
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Plummit Plummit is offline
 
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Location: SoCal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cbull View Post
One question to the group about rudder trim. Can a ground adjustable trim work on the -10? I could totally spend $100 and go out and get a servo and do the rudder trim tab mod at this point. I was just assuming I could install the aforementioned ground adjustable trim tab and be better off than doing nothing.
I love my electric rudder trim! In the beginning I was wishing it was aileron trim but once I got use to it, it's just too convenient.

-Marc
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  #16  
Old 01-23-2017, 10:46 PM
BobTurner BobTurner is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plummit View Post
I love my electric rudder trim! In the beginning I was wishing it was aileron trim but once I got use to it, it's just too convenient.

-Marc
?? Rudder trim does not replace aileron trim. I have neither, don't miss not having rudder trim, but do wish I had put in aileron trim.
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  #17  
Old 01-23-2017, 10:57 PM
N319BC N319BC is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Lakeland
Posts: 24
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Here are a few things that Iíll add to the list. I was a first time builder so I had a lot of obstacles to overcome.
1. Make sure you have enough wires pulled for your All your devices and devices you didnít plan for. Add the wires now for the rudder trim, even if youíre not planning on installing it now. If you decide you need the trim later, the wires will already be in place. Itís no fun removing the seats just to have to remove the side panels to pull wires.
2. Change the Vans Fuel Valve for the better Andair FS20x7t. Maybe go with Flex lines too?
3. I had trouble with high CHTís so I had to add a cowl flap, Itís something to think about, at least make room for now so if you need it later, the install would go smooth(er).
4. I cut my tunnel cover in 3rds . So itís not very difficult to get to the filter. I only need to remove the first cover. Screws are easily accessible.
5. Follow Brianís advice and remove the section of the seat rail (plastic insert) so you can remove your seats without removing the torque cover.
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  #18  
Old 01-23-2017, 11:03 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N319BC View Post
5. Follow Brianís advice and remove the section of the seat rail (plastic insert) so you can remove your seats without removing the torque cover.
Perhaps I'm obtuse, but give me a little more on this. It doesn't register.
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  #19  
Old 01-23-2017, 11:38 PM
N319BC N319BC is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Lakeland
Posts: 24
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Kyle,
Here is the link to Brians web page with a photo. It's a godsend if you ever have to remove your seats.
http://n42bu.com/post/2014/04/08/Tri...at-rails!.aspx
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  #20  
Old 01-24-2017, 12:00 AM
paul330 paul330 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Mpumalanga, South Africa
Posts: 958
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Lots of small things but a couple of biggies:

- Stick with the standard door seals. I've flown a -10 with them fitted. They work fine and don't look horrendous. I lost count of the number of hours I spent on the doors getting the automotive seal to fit. It almost caused me to quit.

- Once you have the wheel pants fitted, beef up the fiberglass structure around the attach points. Mine started cracking after about 30 hours.

- Think carefully before you drill out a rivet - "will it do?". Don't use an air drill to drill out! Battery drill at low speed. There are many rivets which are really difficult to set. Seriously consider using 1/8" cherries or 7/64" MK319s in these places - you will save a lot of heartache......
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Last edited by paul330 : 01-24-2017 at 12:03 AM.
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