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  #31  
Old 01-05-2017, 01:29 PM
Kahuna's Avatar
Kahuna Kahuna is offline
Whelen LED Light Man
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Gold Hill, NC25
Posts: 2,355
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Les is the man.
http://www.mstewart.net/super8/propclock/index.htm

You will find some actual data in there.
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  #32  
Old 02-28-2017, 06:27 PM
Strasnuts Strasnuts is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 529
Talking I just did this and it worked for me!

My friend Scott Schmidt sent me this link when he noticed it here. He knew I had tried a few things to make my RV10 run smoother. I initially dynamically balanced the prop. That didn't change it much and it was surprisingly well balanced to begin with. I then called Lord mounts and tried some different mounts on the diagonal that they suggested. That didn't seem to work either. So I left it as is and put up with the rumble. I have an IO-540-N1A5 which has a thicker crank and heavier counterweights. I thought it was just an engine/plane/prop combo that had a shake and that was that. I noticed after flying other RV10's that mine had a worse shake. Scott Schmidt's and Tim Olson's RV both felt smoother than mine. After Scott sent me this link I started doing some research. I read all the prior posts and then called Les at Hartzell. I left a message thinking he may not call back. He has left his prior position and is now working for Hartzell and the NTSB on accident investigations. He returned my call and we chatted for a bit. We decided the best plan of action was to re-clock the prop by changing out the bushings on the prop flange. I was going to rent the tool or make one but after looking at them I decided to make some spacers and use a bolt and nut combo to push out the bushings. The same tools worked to pull them back into place at the new location. My prop was set at #1 TDC pointing to 1 and 7 looking forward from inside the cockpit so I had to move the bushings one hole over to make the prop 9 and 3. I changed four bushing so the weight would be balanced on the flange. I finally finished my condition inspection and flew the plane. What a difference! I can easily tell this did the trick on mine. Before I changed this the rich setting on takeoff and climbout would be the worse for vibration. Mixture set to the rich side in cruise with the prop at 2400 was bad too. I would climb to cruise altitude and run LOP which would smooth out the plane a bit. Now all settings are smooth. Made a huge difference on my RV10.
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Last edited by Strasnuts : 03-02-2017 at 08:06 AM.
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  #33  
Old 09-24-2017, 08:28 PM
rsjanko rsjanko is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 6
Thumbs up Re-clocking worked for me

Thanks to all who posted on the subject of prop vibration! Re clocking worked for me. The plane is smooth at all RPMs. Since my crankshaft had five drive bushings it was only necessary to move the shorter one one hole CCW to re-clock the prop since it is the short bushing that determines the position of a Hartzell prop. Note: All crankshaft holes are the same size for the bushings, there is one larger hole on the starter ring gear support (flywheel) that indexes it (its position is not changed). The prop's position is determined by the short bushing on a Hartzell prop.
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  #34  
Old 11-26-2017, 08:25 PM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 1,575
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I will add one additional RV-10 to the re-clocking success story.

After balancing my prop to .01 IPS, it still had a slight vibration I could feel in my seat. It has been there since day one 750 hours ago. After reading this thread I decided to try it myself. I ordered two new bushings from Air Power Inc., a 79024-S and a 72155-S for a total cost of $78. I have the D4A5 with the BA 2 blade prop. I clocked the prop to 9 and 3 o'clock with #1 at TDC. It again balanced out to .01 IPS @2400 RPM.

Night and day difference. That pesky vibration in the seat is gone.
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  #35  
Old 11-26-2017, 09:13 PM
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Lenny Iszak Lenny Iszak is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Palm City, FL
Posts: 215
Default didn't work for me.

I have the same D4A5 engine from Van's with the BA 2 blade prop, and had to get the same bushings 79024-S and 72155-S.
My half order vibrations in cruise doubled up after the reclock and rebalance. Went from .144 IPS to .281 IPS on the half order vibrations. It was real smooth at full power, but I couldn't stand the floor thumping at cruise (2360) rpm. I ended up clocking it back to original.

Bill, did you grab a spectral graph of your balance? I'm real curious why it didn't work out for me.
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2014 RV-10, N311LZ - 350 hrs
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  #36  
Old 11-27-2017, 08:33 AM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
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Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 1,575
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Lenny,
I did notice that the prop was the smoothest at higher RPMs. It is still smoother than it used to be at 2300 prior to reclocking it, but definitely the least amount of vibration is at 2600+. Overall, it is far better @9-3 then it was @7-1.
The Dynavibe I am using only captures 1st order acceleration, so I do not have the 1/2 order data.
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RV-10 - 700 Hrs
First Flight Oct 2012
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  #37  
Old 11-30-2017, 09:31 AM
7DeltaLima 7DeltaLima is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Senoia, GA
Posts: 147
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Hello all,

I have a RV10 with IO-540D4A5, two bladed Hartzell HC-C2YR-1BFP/F8068D.... Standard stuff from Vans..

I have been trying to isolate vibration so this seems the next step for me. I commute most days for about an hour and it's starting to be a pet peeve so I want prepare to give reclocking the prop a try. After that, I'll get Vic to balance the prop.

Questions:
Only see reference to the "special tool" on the first post. How has everyone else dealt with not having the tool?

I see two spacers .... 79024-S and a 72155-S .... that looks like I need to have on hand as well.

Anything else that I need to have on hand other than an extra hand? Appreciate this information!
Doug
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  #38  
Old 11-30-2017, 09:43 AM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 1,575
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I ordered the bushings from air power. The Lycoming tool is not necessary, a box end wrench several long bolts and washers, and a socket is all that’s needed to fashion your own removal tool to remove and install the bushings. Looking at the prop from in front of the plane, the prop is clocked clockwise, counter to its rotation, so that the blades are at 9 and 3 o’clock when #1 is at tdc. The prop hub o ring should also be replaced.
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