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  #21  
Old 12-28-2016, 03:08 PM
Planecrazy232's Avatar
Planecrazy232 Planecrazy232 is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Cape Coral
Posts: 169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by climberrn View Post
Actually, Dayton has a Catto 3 blade prop, with an O-320 and told me about is. If I remember right, he had this problem also.
I'm having a very similar problem with my 3 blade Catto. I went from a wood two blade to the Catto and I have heavy shaking at about 1400 RPM and not as smooth as my wood two blade at cruise. It was described above ad sort of a "thumping" and that is what I feel. I have clocked the prop, and even sent it back to have it reworked by Catto and still the same.

The Catto's are building me a whole new prop now, and I'll have it in a few weeks. less wood, more carbon this time. Hopefully that will do the trick.

Let me add- Nichole at Catto has been very patient with me and at a whole, very accommodating. I have been told by others that they want happy customers, and they are trying very hard to make sure that I am!!

I'd like to know the outcome of "Dayton" above.

PS: sorry about jumping in with my issue...
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RV6-A "Aluminum Mistress"
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  #22  
Old 12-28-2016, 04:59 PM
Storch Storch is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: South
Posts: 10
Default Vibration-clocking

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Originally Posted by ppilotmike View Post
..so, for us guys who haven't yet ordered or installed our engine and prop combos yet, is there something we can do to make sure the engine prop combo we buy is "correctly" clocked? You mentioned that the original setup you had was clocked to allow hand-propping. Is there a way to specify that an engine be set up properly for the 2-bladed Hartzell combo? When ordering a new prop and engine together, can we be sure that it has been properly clocked, or is this something that the builder must do?
When I refer to hand propping-it's the typical position nearly all two bladed props stop at. Just like a J-3, easy position to hand prop. I assume this is a carry over from the old days. Again, my experience is I've never heard of this phenomena prior to our 10. Nobody I talked to in the aircraft industry including Vans, except Les Doud and some folks on this site, had ever heard of it. It seems the stock factory position is ok the majority of the time.
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  #23  
Old 12-29-2016, 08:07 AM
Skysailor Skysailor is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 157
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Any idea how he chose one position clockwise as correct or was the plan to start with that?
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  #24  
Old 12-29-2016, 08:33 AM
Dorfie Dorfie is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 409
Default Prop position for hand propping

Quote:
Originally Posted by Storch View Post
When I refer to hand propping-it's the typical position nearly all two bladed props stop at.
Stopping in the 10-4 o'clock position is only true for 4 cylinder engines. The 6 cylinders have another position (about 2-8 o'clock) position where it will stop. 4 cyl crankshafts can be laid flat (all journals in same plane). 6 cyl cranks are triangular geometry.
The OP has 6 cyl engine.
Johan
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  #25  
Old 12-29-2016, 08:34 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is online now
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
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The complaint, and the 'cure', has been around for a long time. Reasons tend to be all over the map. For your reading pleasure, from the google:

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...um%20vibration

Anyone have a Sky Ranch manual? There's supposed to be a reference in there, too.

Charlie
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  #26  
Old 12-29-2016, 02:12 PM
Storch Storch is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: South
Posts: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skysailor View Post
Any idea how he chose one position clockwise as correct or was the plan to start with that?
The plan from the start was to have the prop horizontal with the #1 Cylinder at TDC. It just so happen to require moving the prop in that particular direction and only one hole.
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  #27  
Old 12-30-2016, 11:18 AM
Storch Storch is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: South
Posts: 10
Default Prop busing tool catolog

Quote:
Originally Posted by mburch View Post
Now I'm very curious... what does this super special tool look like?
http://www.grummanpilotsassociation....ol-catalog.pdf

page 20, figure #337.
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  #28  
Old 01-05-2017, 10:13 AM
barryrv10 barryrv10 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fl
Posts: 111
Default My Vibration Solved Also

I had the same problem as the OP. I have an IO-540 with the Hartzell HC-C2YR 2-blade. I normally cruise at 7000'-10,000', WOT, 2300rpm, LOP, 11.0-11.5 gph. and always had a slight 1/2 order vibration, (felt more like an oscillation) when I pulled the rpm back from climb rpm. I re-clocked the prop one hole CW as the OP described and now it is much smoother at cruise, (it was always ok at high power settings for take off and climb). Thanks again Storch for getting this info on the forum.
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  #29  
Old 01-05-2017, 10:35 AM
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Lenny Iszak Lenny Iszak is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Palm City, FL
Posts: 214
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Barry,

Did you need the Lycoming bushing removal tool, and did your replace the bushings with new ones or reused the existing bushings? I'm planning to re-clock mine too this weekend. The accelerometer is still mounted in the cabin and I'll be able to get some in-flight spectrum data for comparison.

Lenny
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  #30  
Old 01-05-2017, 11:08 AM
barryrv10 barryrv10 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fl
Posts: 111
Default Bushings

Hi Lenny. I was able to remove the bushings with a brass drift and a hammer, they came out easy. I spoke with a few engine guys and they said it was ok to reuse the bushings if the threads were ok and they had a good fit with the prop flange. I removed the 72060 from the index position and installed a 72074 bushing, which has the 0.78 dia and 0.78 height for the prop drive; I then traded a 72061 and 72062 positions so I had the 72061 one hole CW from the original index. I used a long 1/2'' bolt with spacers and nuts to install the bushings. I now have five drive bushings and one flush one, and the flywheel is still index properly. As a side note, when I checked out my original bushings, two of them were not seated all the way against the prop flange, so I pulled them in tight also; I guess I thought that the prop torquing would pull them in, but it did not. All in all not to bad of a job to do. Email or pm me if ya have any more questions
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