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  #11  
Old 11-30-2017, 01:31 PM
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goatflieg goatflieg is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Clarkston, MI
Posts: 314
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I'm at this stage of my build and returning here for more research. A few viable suggestions here. My thanks to Skylor for his photos; very helpful. Some of the other photo links in this thread have expired; I'd be very grateful if Dan Horton, Sapeloson and any other willing participants can send me photos of their solutions I would be very grateful. Send me a PM and I will send email address... or if you have photos elsewhere online, let me know where I can find them. And is it just me... or is trying to get the bulkhead nuts and line fitting nuts tightened inside those gear towers one of the most difficult parts of this build? Good thing I don't have any hair anymore, because this would have me pulling it out.
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Martin J Filiatrault
Clarkston, MI
RV-8 #83507 - empennage complete (except fiberglass)
QB wings & fuselage work continues
N657AR reserved
Builder websites:
http://goatflieg.blogspot.com/
http://www.mykitlog.com/goatflieg/
Dues paid for 2017... extra payment included for psychological therapeutic services rendered.

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Last edited by goatflieg : 11-30-2017 at 01:33 PM.
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  #12  
Old 11-30-2017, 03:11 PM
xblueh2o xblueh2o is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SF East Bay
Posts: 716
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I have a set of crowfoot wrenches that worked very well in this application.
An easy way to get this one single application is to buy a cheap Horrible Freight box end wrench of the correct size and cut a wide enough slot in it to slide over the tube.

Here is a picture of the crowfoot I have. You get the idea on how to modify a regular box wrench to replicate it.
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Sam
RV-8 with the Showplanes Fastback conversion
Emp completed except for glass work
Wings completed except for bottom skin and glass work
Fuselage underway
N18451 reserved
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  #13  
Old 12-01-2017, 11:20 AM
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goatflieg goatflieg is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Clarkston, MI
Posts: 314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xblueh2o View Post
I have a set of crowfoot wrenches that worked very well in this application.
An easy way to get this one single application is to buy a cheap Horrible Freight box end wrench of the correct size and cut a wide enough slot in it to slide over the tube.

Here is a picture of the crowfoot I have. You get the idea on how to modify a regular box wrench to replicate it.
I did have cheap crowfoot wrenches, and invested in better ones. With a little practice it did get a little easier... still a pain, but I got the fittings torqued properly. I'm considering buying cheap open-end wrenches and cutting them in half for clearance working inside the towers.
__________________
Martin J Filiatrault
Clarkston, MI
RV-8 #83507 - empennage complete (except fiberglass)
QB wings & fuselage work continues
N657AR reserved
Builder websites:
http://goatflieg.blogspot.com/
http://www.mykitlog.com/goatflieg/
Dues paid for 2017... extra payment included for psychological therapeutic services rendered.

_______________________

Have you ever gotten the feeling you were smarter than you could ever prove?
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  #14  
Old 12-01-2017, 11:50 PM
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skylor skylor is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 566
Default Long Screw

[quote=BenNabors;1118197]Long screw in the lower left corner, and well you are screwed. I have seen it happen on other applications. Nasa lost the Tethered Satellite this way, the longer bolt jammed the reel. In this case a longer screw would puncture the line.


Quote:
Originally Posted by skylor View Post

While technically true, there is actually more clearance between the nutplate and the brake line than there appears to be in the photo. That's one of the things that I was concerned about but I simply don't have any -6 screws in my parts supply that are long enough to rub against the line. It is one of those items that should be taken in consideration during maintenance, however...

Of course, there are several places on the aircraft where an incorrect length screw can cause problems. Control column push rod bolts come to mind...

FYI, these pictures remind me of another item relating to the post about priming grove gear legs. As you might be able to see, I Alodined my entire legs (including the internal brake line passages). I then used Akzo primer however, I masked off the areas that interface with the wear plates and clamp brackets. I have these areas greased. My thought was that the grease here would provide corrosion protection and I didn't want wear and cold flow of the primer contributing to loosening of the mounting brackets.

Skylor

Last edited by skylor : 12-01-2017 at 11:55 PM.
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