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  #11  
Old 10-24-2016, 09:57 AM
challinan challinan is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Punta Gorda, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rapid_ascent View Post
From figure 2 it seems like they intended for you to rivet those 2 pieces together before putting it together with the rest of the rudder assembly.
If you follow the assembly sequence, it is not possible to rivet the brace before, because the spar has the lower rib already riveted to it in an earlier step, blocking access to the inside of the rudder brace. The right bucking bar seems to be the generally accepted solution. Thanks to all who answered!

-Chris
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RV-14A (N914CH Reserved)
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* Donated for 2016, 2017
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  #12  
Old 10-24-2016, 10:02 AM
control control is offline
 
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I remeber that, could not set them enough with my hand squeezer but when I attacked them again with the pneumatic one it was easy
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  #13  
Old 10-24-2016, 10:05 AM
jswareiv jswareiv is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 473
Default Tungsten Bars

Quote:
Originally Posted by JDBoston View Post
Have you found this rectangular shaped one to be generally useful? I have this one:
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Tungst.../#.WA4kzPkrKUk


But do wonder which one to get if I get a second one. Yes I know you never can have enough of them But at $100+ a pop two will suffice.

Opinions? I am working on the rudder right now.
Yes, if you buy the rectangular one (http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Tungst.../#.WA4wU_RuPz4) and also the fatter one (http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Tungst.../#.WA4wifRuPz4) (my go to bar whenever possible), you will never use the other bucking bars. Once you go tungsten, you'll never go back. Word of caution, ALWAYS make sure you have a towel or some other soft surface on any aluminum below what you are working on. If you drop it, it will cause damage! Yes, ask me how I know.
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  #14  
Old 10-24-2016, 11:03 AM
challinan challinan is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Punta Gorda, FL
Posts: 46
Default Pneumatic squeezer

A pneumatic squeezer is on my "wish list".
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RV-14A (N914CH Reserved)
* (VS, Rudder, HS complete, elevators in progress)
* Donated for 2016, 2017
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  #15  
Old 11-27-2017, 05:16 PM
Aluminum Aluminum is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 154
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For posterity: I just checked with mothership and the response was it's safe to substitute with Cherry CR-3213-4-? of the proper length for the four bottom rivets in the rudder horn.

I did actually make a small bucking block to fit inside (cutting tungsten is fun) but couldn't get a decent shop head with the silly thing squirreling sideways no matter how I tried to hold it.

You should check with mothership for every such situation to make sure it still meets design loads after fastener substitution.
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  #16  
Old 11-29-2017, 12:01 AM
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HAL Pilot HAL Pilot is offline
 
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Location: Las Vegas NV
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I happened to have some iron bars that were about 1.5 inches wide, 3 inches long, and about 3/16 thick. I ground the center a bit thinner to slide in there but kept some mass on the sides. Did one side standard first then used the thin bucking bar I created, works pretty well.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9v5lzvpy9o...B1%5D.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xo07rgwa2g...B1%5D.jpg?dl=0
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  #17  
Old 11-29-2017, 06:43 AM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
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Location: Birmingham, Alabama
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There is a tungsten 1" bucking bar out there with one end angled that comes in handy, including making the rudder horn easy to deal with.

Here is the one I use, the pic doesn't show the angle - http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Tungst...uctinfo/BBT12/
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  #18  
Old 02-27-2018, 07:58 AM
iamtheari iamtheari is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: ND
Posts: 114
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I foolishly ordered a bucking bar that I thought would work for these rivets, before reading this thread. Rather than ordering another tungsten bucking bar, we just located some Cherrymax rivets. My building mentor had some rivets and, very important, the grip gauge, which shows that the correct length was a 3. So we put in CR3213-4-3 rivets to attach the rudder horn brace to the rudder horn.

Now the mystery is how to rivet the skins to the rudder horn brace. Any tips?
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  #19  
Old 02-27-2018, 11:03 AM
Aluminum Aluminum is offline
 
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Location: San Jose, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iamtheari View Post
Now the mystery is how to rivet the skins to the rudder horn brace. Any tips?
If you put a long set on the yoke of a squeezer (what instructions tell you not to do lest you damage the yoke) these rivets are easy to reach.
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  #20  
Old 02-27-2018, 11:09 AM
iamtheari iamtheari is offline
 
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Location: ND
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aluminum View Post
If you put a long set on the yoke of a squeezer (what instructions tell you not to do lest you damage the yoke) these rivets are easy to reach.
Thanks for the tip. I'll test that out. Since the rivets are AD3's, it may work. I found that the pneumatic squeezer was not in a strong enough part of its stroke to set rivets when it was set up to reach the AD4's between the rudder horn and the brace.
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