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  #21  
Old 10-27-2014, 01:50 AM
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longranger longranger is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1bigdog View Post
It seems to me for the purpose (surviving alodine prep process)
the discussion is done.

Either the use of pre-numbered metal tags, or blank tags to be numbered, and engraving on the part itself. As to the later, I was a bit concerned that if stamping is seen potentially creating a stress point why using an engraver (I'm assuming electric pencil to be en engraver) would not likewise create stress. Yes, I can see how the stamping itself will deform the part, but likewise with engraving you are removing material. I very much like the engraving idea. Just peel pack the plastic and scribe the part. Done.

As to the black sparpie, I have read the same thing in several places, so I guess I'll go pick up some fine blue's.

Thanks again. Great suggestions about the tags and electric pencil.

Michael B.
(seems every answer has raised more questions - oy )
The electric pencil does not "engrave", that is, it does not remove metal. If you look at it with a magnifying glass, it is just a series of very small spherical dimples in the metal. The bit in the tool is not sharp, but is rounded, about the size of the ball in a fine-point ballpoint pen.

As for the black ink in sharpies causing corrosion, it must take more than 16 years for that to happen. I marked some RV-4 parts as long ago as 1998, and there's no sign of corrosion. Even if the ink has carbon in it, it will be sealed up under the primer, blocking the moisture required for an electrolyte.
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  #22  
Old 10-27-2014, 08:15 AM
1bigdog 1bigdog is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Markham, Ontario, Canada
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Default the alodine "tub"

Hi Earnst

I appreciate your experience in this. Likewise you are painting the picture of why I wanted it to go professional. I know the plating company owner personally. I'll be meeting with them shortly but in my discussion they have tanks meant for large application. In fact he asked if I wanted to do the whole plane. They are also just 30 minutes from my house. I am MUCH more concerned about leaving the parts out of site. So, depending on how phase 1 goes I may end up doing what you did.

Evinrude makes a zinc chromate rattle can that I used with excellent results on a corvette restoration several years ago. That and one other primer are the backup plan.

Cheers.
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  #23  
Old 10-27-2014, 08:25 AM
1bigdog 1bigdog is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Markham, Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longranger View Post
The electric pencil does not "engrave", that is, it does not remove metal. If you look at it with a magnifying glass, it is just a series of very small spherical dimples in the metal. The bit in the tool is not sharp, but is rounded, about the size of the ball in a fine-point ballpoint pen.

As for the black ink in sharpies causing corrosion, it must take more than 16 years for that to happen. I marked some RV-4 parts as long ago as 1998, and there's no sign of corrosion. Even if the ink has carbon in it, it will be sealed up under the primer, blocking the moisture required for an electrolyte.
Miles, thanks for the clarification.
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  #24  
Old 11-17-2017, 01:25 PM
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1001001 1001001 is offline
 
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Default Update?

I have been using little numbered tags that I made to identify parts during the coating process. Occasionally they will come loose in handling (and I only have so many of these) and I'd like to try another way.

This thread, old as it is, and a couple of others, reference Van's Aircraft's use of vibrating peening markers and supposed approval of such in the construction manual, but the newer versions of the manual make no mention whatsoever of this.

My spars and center section were marked by the factory with this kind of device, but they don't seem to endorse it for our use anymore. Is there a reason for this?

I sure would like an easier marking method than these little tags...and Sharpie's not an option for me because the solvent wipe completely removes those markings for me.
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