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  #1  
Old 11-05-2017, 09:16 PM
RobB52 RobB52 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Shreveport, LA
Posts: 43
Default Fuel Tank and Splice Strip Fitting

I am having issues getting the outboard edge of my fuel tank to fit over the splice strip attached to the outboard leading edge. I cannot get the tank dimples to "seat" into the splice strip dimples. Tank fits perfect if it is put up against the spar just short of the splice strip. Trying to slide it over the strip (it appears it will fit fine) forces the tank away from the spar and dimples will not align. It looks as if I need to push the outboard part of the tank back towards the spar about 3/16" to get everything to fit. I have pushed pretty hard and also tried to tighten screws in baffle brackets to pull it tight. Nothing seems to work and I am concerned about bending the bracket if I tighten the screws any further. It appears that the tank dimples for the #8 screws are holding it out. Was hoping they would "pop" into place and fix my issue.

Anybody else have this issue? Thoughts?

Thanks
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RV-14 Empennage and Fuselage complete! Wings now in progress.
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  #2  
Old 11-05-2017, 09:57 PM
YoVuelo YoVuelo is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 15
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Can’t say without a picture, but to pull the tank further towards the spar, it sounds like you may have the splice strip on the inside of the W-1008-R leading edge rib. The splice strip should be between the rib and the skin. Probably unlikely, but if not, the only other thing I can think of is that the right and left splice ribs could be reversed. When attaching the tanks, mine just “clicked” into place exactly like you were thinking should happen. No fuss, no muss, just used a bit of boelube to ensure the screws didn’t bind up in the nut plates.
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  #3  
Old 11-06-2017, 01:12 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 7,055
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobB52 View Post
I am having issues getting the outboard edge of my fuel tank to fit over the splice strip attached to the outboard leading edge. I cannot get the tank dimples to "seat" into the splice strip dimples. Tank fits perfect if it is put up against the spar just short of the splice strip. Trying to slide it over the strip (it appears it will fit fine) forces the tank away from the spar and dimples will not align. It looks as if I need to push the outboard part of the tank back towards the spar about 3/16" to get everything to fit. I have pushed pretty hard and also tried to tighten screws in baffle brackets to pull it tight. Nothing seems to work and I am concerned about bending the bracket if I tighten the screws any further. It appears that the tank dimples for the #8 screws are holding it out. Was hoping they would "pop" into place and fix my issue.

Anybody else have this issue? Thoughts?

Thanks
How were the screw dimples formed? Hand squeezer?
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  #4  
Old 11-06-2017, 05:41 AM
RobB52 RobB52 is offline
 
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Location: Shreveport, LA
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Scott, dimples were formed with a pneumatic squeezer. Also, splice strip is between rib and skin.

I will try to post a picture soon.
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  #5  
Old 11-06-2017, 09:42 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobB52 View Post
Scott, dimples were formed with a pneumatic squeezer. Also, splice strip is between rib and skin.

I will try to post a picture soon.
Ok, then I will assume that the dimples are well formed.

It is fairly common for it to take quite a bit of force to get the dimples on outboard end of the tank to move aft far enough for them to snap into the dimples on the splice plate. Until they do the outboard end of the tank will be held forward. I have resorted to a hammer and a block of wood paded with a folded rag at times.

I clue of position would be shinning a light into the z bracket bolt holes at the outboard end and see if the z bracket is flush to the spar web or not.
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  #6  
Old 11-06-2017, 12:47 PM
Mudfly Mudfly is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Alpharetta, Ga
Posts: 102
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I just riveted the nutplates on the splice strip a few days ago so I'm somewhat familiar.... with that part anyway.
It sounds like Scott was concerned about the possibility of the dimples not being well formed. You said they were properly dimpled with a pneumatic squeezer. Is it possible the nutplates used could have been the un-dimpled variety (K1100-08 vs. K1100-08D) as called for in the plans? If non-dimpled were used by mistake could it cause the skin dimple to deform when riveting on the nutplate?
Probably not likely, but thought I'd throw it out there.
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  #7  
Old 11-06-2017, 03:39 PM
RobB52 RobB52 is offline
 
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Location: Shreveport, LA
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Thanks Scott and Shawn. I will work on it again tonight and see f I can get it seated properly.
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  #8  
Old 11-06-2017, 09:41 PM
RobB52 RobB52 is offline
 
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Location: Shreveport, LA
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SUCCESS!! The back of the dimples on the fuel tank seemed a little rough and I noticed scratches on the splice strip from the dimple edges where I was trying to "force" it to fit. I took my die grinder and small 3m wheel and "smoothed" the back of the dimples. Maybe 2-3 seconds per dimple. The roughness was gone. Next fitting it appeared I would have the same problem. Just when I was about to yell at it, it popped into place. I am blaming it on rough dimples digging into the splice strip as I tried to push the tank into position.

Thanks for all the comments!

Did you guys prime the splice strip and fuel tank in this area where they overlap? I have been priming faying surfaces throughout my build, not 100% of everything.
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  #9  
Old 11-06-2017, 09:56 PM
Bevan Bevan is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: BC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobB52 View Post
Did you guys prime the splice strip and fuel tank in this area where they overlap? I have been priming faying surfaces throughout my build, not 100% of everything.
Here we go...

Bevan
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  #10  
Old 11-07-2017, 07:13 AM
RobB52 RobB52 is offline
 
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Location: Shreveport, LA
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Disregard my priming question. I should have known better...
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