+1 for this method. Every wire in my plane has a heatshrinked label on both ends. A year or two years later, I will know what wire is.I found using heat shrink printed labels to be best. Identifies the wires at each end/termination in a way that won't fall off with time. Costs a bit more, but well worth it in my view.
I found using heat shrink printed labels to be best. Identifies the wires at each end/termination in a way that won't fall off with time. Costs a bit more, but well worth it in my view.
I followed a tip I saw on hints for homebuilders: I printed labels in 6 pt font on my laser printer and bought clear heatshrink from Stein Air for about $.30/ft. In addition to the labels, I used red for power, black for ground and white for data (per the advice of my Sport Air Workshop instructor) and labeled every wire at both ends. Adding a label to each wire takes less than a minute. That time investment has already paid for itself during construction, and I'm sure it will be worth more when the plane is in operation.
+1 for this method. Every wire in my plane has a heatshrinked label on both ends. A year or two years later, I will know what wire is.
I used a label maker with a small font and put a pc of clear heat shrink over it. I already had a label maker and the clear heat shrink is cheap.
I'm planning that as well but never occurred to use colored paper. Great idea. Thanks.
I bought one of these after much research:
https://labelworks.epson.com/product/lw-px900/
Pricey, but very worth it. Every wire in the upgraded system is labeled with heat shrink tube. It is very easy to do, easy to read and makes things more serviceable down the road.
Plus you can use the labeler for all kinds of other things around the house and hangar!
I had the opportunity to crawl around in a B-767-300-ER that was in for heavy maintenance recently.
The comment here's reminded me of some of the things I saw "behind the curtain". As most of the baggage compartment walls were removed, the wiring was plainly visible...literally thousands of plain white wires, hundreds of bundles, and running everywhere.
Even WITH the detailed schematics that I know they have, I would hate to have to troubleshoot a wiring problem in that jungle!
They probably were marked but it would still be a nightmare trying to find which wire you were looking for...
...but it the case of the 767, some of those bundles were as big around as a half dollar...
Anyone remember those half dollars?
I used a label maker with a small font and put a pc of clear heat shrink over it. I already had a label maker and the clear heat shrink is cheap.
I tried this recently, but found the heat required to shrink the (polyolefin) heat shrink tube was enough to activate the thermal ink on the label stock which made the whole label turn black. How did you avoid that?
Thanks,
There's a whole 'nother part of documenting the wiring when it comes to avionics. Knowing what individual pins and wires are is nice, but it's also nice to know things at a higher level -- such as, serial port #1 from device A goes to serial port #3 on device D, that kind of thing. And similarly, all the input and output port settings on each device, all the autopilot gains, everything.
I documented all that in a spreadsheet, saved it as a pdf and have it on my cell phone. Ed
Ed makes a good point. Wire labels are great, but without good documentation they don't help much with trouble shooting or revisions. You need up-to-date complete as-built documentation to efficiently find any problems.
While I do have a couple of spreadsheet tables I developed to help me keep track of things while developing my wiring diagrams, they don't help me as much as the actual wiring diagrams in understanding how everything works together.
I have developed my wiring diagrams using PowerPoint in a format that was recommended by Pahan Ranasingha in the AEA "Avionics Installation for Experimental Aircraft" class. Developing the wiring diagrams in this way results in easy to read, fully documented diagrams in a format that prints easily in a set of 8.5" x 11" pages. I can print the set of pages to a pdf file, and then take the file down to my local Office Depot/Staples and get them printed in ledger size (11 x 17) to use in the shop. This larger size allows me to keep track of as-built changes while working, which I can then take home and use to revise my original PowerPoint file to keep it up to date. Once I have completed the work, I will then print the as-builts to a pdf file which I will carry with me on my iPad and cell phone. This way I will always have the diagrams with me without the weight and space required by the paper drawings. If I need the large paper drawings at some distant airport for serious trouble shooting, I can always get them printed at a local office supply store from the pdf files I will carry on my phone.
I'm not saying this is the only way to do your documentation, just that this is what works well for me. If you find a spreadsheet to be easier for you, then by all means use a spreadsheet. Just be sure you keep an up-to-date current set of as-built documentation so that trouble shooting problems doesn't become a nightmare!
One other suggestion - pull in a few spare wires when you are doing your installation. These will become huge time savers when you realize you forgot a wire, or have to replace a damaged wire in the future. They don't take up much space or weight, and are easily installed at the time of your original wire installation.
Regards,
Dave-
Is that powerpoint format something you could share? I have been doing my "as built" documentation by hand with a pencil, but it would be much better if I could do it on the computer. My problem is that I don't find powerpoint very user-friendly for doing wiring diagrams. I've tried, but it seems more of a hassle than it's worth. But if there is some technique that makes getting all those lines and boxes and such actually easy to manipulate, I'd appreciate hearing about it.
-Ivan Luke
I tried this recently, but found the heat required to shrink the (polyolefin) heat shrink tube was enough to activate the thermal ink on the label stock which made the whole label turn black. How did you avoid that?
Thanks,
Dave-
Is that powerpoint format something you could share? -Ivan Luke
What heat shrink label tubes did you buy? The $20 LabelManager is not supposed to be able to print on heat shrink, but obviously that is not true.Thanks for all your input. I bought a Dymo LabelManager 160 for 20 bucks on Amazon, and 1/4” heat shrink label tubes. I was concerned that the 1/4” tubes would be too big for 20 gauge wire but it works perfectly.
What heat shrink label tubes did you buy? The $20 LabelManager is not supposed to be able to print on heat shrink, but obviously that is not true.
Rod,
The 1/4" tubing will do 22 gauge wire. I'm amazed at how much it will shrink.
Here's how it looks... sorry about the spelling