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Wd-406 flap actuator position

F

FinnFlyer

Well Known Member
I guess I'll go with electrical flaps.

I started making left flap pushrod hole in fuselage. Fits in flap up position.

Is there any reason I should not move the F-445 blocks and actuator as far aft as possible (beyond the 22 1/4" specified in the plans)?

By "as far aft as possible" I mean until the motor end of the flap actuator weldment hits the bulkhead behind it when the arms are in the full up position.

Seems that it would it put the pushrods at less of an angle and make the forward forward slots in the bottom skin/flange less long -- less fuselage skin cutouts?

Finn
 
I've never quite understood the electric flap thing.

What's wrong with the manual flap lever setup?

It's simple, with a total part count in the single digits
It's super lightweight
It's utterly reliable
It allows you to actually feel the airstream when deploying

Ours is manual, and I've never missed an electric setup for one second...

FWIW,

Hans
 
Why electric?

Hans, I do miss the manual flaps in the RV-3B I'm now flying. In my old RV-3 I could dump flaps in a second on touchdown and stay on the ground even in gusty conditions.

Two things make me lean towards electric:
1) Manual flap handle interfering with passenger leg
2) Manual only has three positions: none, 20 and 40 degrees.
3) With electric I can put the switch on the stick grip and keeps hands on throttle and stick during landing.

However, I do have the weldments and material for both manual and electric.
So it's not too late to convince me to go manual :)

But still would like an answer on moving flap weldment/torque tube aft.

Finn
 
FinnFlyer said:
Hans, I do miss the manual flaps in the RV-3B I'm now flying. In my old RV-3 I could dump flaps in a second on touchdown and stay on the ground even in gusty conditions.

Two things make me lean towards electric:
1) Manual flap handle interfering with passenger leg
2) Manual only has three positions: none, 20 and 40 degrees.
3) With electric I can put the switch on the stick grip and keeps hands on throttle and stick during landing.

However, I do have the weldments and material for both manual and electric.
So it's not too late to convince me to go manual :)

But still would like an answer on moving flap weldment/torque tube aft.

Finn
Click to expand...

I have not built an RV-4 but own one, as to moving the weldment further back, maybe it's not a good idea, the torque tube is right at the front edge of the rear seat cushion, it's actually holding the cushion from moving forward. something to think about.
 
Thank you Russ.

That's the kind of input I was looking for.

Finn

Russ McCutcheon said:
I have not built an RV-4 but own one, as to moving the weldment further back, maybe it's not a good idea, the torque tube is right at the front edge of the rear seat cushion, it's actually holding the cushion from moving forward. something to think about.
Click to expand...
 
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