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Old 02-26-2011, 01:02 PM
Jekyll Jekyll is offline
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 625

Originally Posted by RV9A Bill View Post
I will take four of your extra springs. I think that adds up to $8.80. let me know your address.
RV9A Bill
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Old 02-26-2011, 01:42 PM
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mannanj mannanj is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mtns of N.E. Georgia
Posts: 1,322

Oh my! Here I am coming up on 5 years and 400hrs., WITH NO BRAKE SPRINGS and I didn't know I had a problem!!!!! ???Wonder why I still have the same tires I started with??? (No wonder they're going bald----)
Mannan J.Thomason, MSGT. USAF (RET)
"Bucket List" checkoff in progress!
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Old 09-27-2017, 06:35 AM
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rleffler rleffler is offline
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Delaware, OH (KDLZ)
Posts: 3,878

Originally Posted by LifeofReiley View Post
RV Brake Spring Parts List

I used the following from McMaster Carr

(1) Pkg 6389K625
Nylon Bearing Flanged, for 3/8" Shaft Dia, 1/2" Od,
3/8" Length, Packs of 5 $1.97 Pkg

(1) Pkg 9657K115
Steel Compression Spring Zinc-Plated Spring-Tempered, 3"
L, 1/2" Od, .047" Dia, Packs of 12 $5.29 Pkg

(4) Ea. 9946K13
Aluminum Set Screw Shaft Collar 3/8" Bore, 3/4"
Outside Diameter, 3/8" Width $1.82 EA.

for a total cost of about $19.62 with shipping.
Resurrecting an old thread. It appears that I'm experiencing dragging brakes, so I'm going to try putting springs on to see if that helps.

So here's a dumb question, based upon the above parts list. How are you getting the spring which has an inside diameter of .406 over the flange that the outside diameter of .5?

I didn't pay attention to the dimensions and blindly ordered them off McMaster Carr. When I got the springs, they appear to be too stiff (or I'm too weak) to uncoil the ends a bit to get them over the flange end.

For the folks that used these parts, how did you accomplish getting the spring over the flange?

I've got .5 ID springs on order, but since this was a long thread several years ago, I'm curious on how people accomplished the task.


Bob Leffler
N410BL - RV10 Flying
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Old 09-27-2017, 05:30 PM
Robert Anglin Robert Anglin is offline
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: houston, texas
Posts: 812
Default If you have?

If you have the Matco cylinders as we use on the two seat'ers, we have just been using the repair kits from Van's. They have a new spring in them along with all the new seals. I take the old springs and put them around a bolt, then roll them on a steel plate or such and peen them with a small ball peen hammer while rolling them to let the spring swell to the size that goes around the piston shaft. Then we put a 1/8" thick nylon washer down at the bottom of the shaft on top of the cylinder top. And then use a set screw caller to hold the spring with some ( just a little ) pressure on it. So it will return to the top of the travel every time. Just kid of what we found to work and it does very well.
Yours, R.E.A. III # 80888
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Old 09-27-2017, 05:43 PM
maus92 maus92 is offline
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Annapolis MD
Posts: 378

I found that when I rebuilt my Matco master cylinders last year, I no longer needed the external shaft springs I had installed the year before. I assume that the cylinders were original to the build in 2000; I didn't find any documentation that they had been changed or rebuilt. I also found that the shaft had deformed, which caused the leak at the top of the assembly that was the reason for the rebuild.
2000 RV-8A | O-360, FP, G3X Touch, VP-X, EarthX
Eastern Shore | KESN
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