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  #1  
Old 09-30-2017, 12:30 PM
JackinMichigan's Avatar
JackinMichigan JackinMichigan is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Canton, MI
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Default Attaching points for rudder cables - nylock nuts?

We had a very experienced builder go over our RV-10 recently, and one of the many things he suggested was to glop JB Weld or Proseal over the rudder cable attachment nuts down by the pedals. The reason is that eventually my foot was going to get caught on one of the cotter pins and either break it or pull it out.

Sound advice, but after he left I thought of replacing the castlated nuts with nylock nuts (and the appropriate bolt) and not only remove the problem but make it more maintainable. Nylock nuts seem sufficient for all the other control surfaces, so why not there?
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Last edited by JackinMichigan : 09-30-2017 at 12:32 PM.
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  #2  
Old 09-30-2017, 12:51 PM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is online now
 
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Default

Nylocs will not work as you have relative motion on the bolt (the cable ends rotate on the pedal bracket).

While this might look like a shoelace grab hazard, it never happened to me.

One tip - add a piece of UHMW tape on the side of the tunnel to protect the rudder cable bolt heads from scratching the interior paint.

Carl
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  #3  
Old 09-30-2017, 01:18 PM
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Locking nuts are not appropriate for any bolt subject to rotation. Nylocs are OK on the control surface hinges because they are tightened down on rod end bearings and are not subject to rotation.

In this situation can you not reverse the direction of the bolt, putting the "head" of the bolt near your foot?
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Last edited by Mel : 09-30-2017 at 01:22 PM.
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  #4  
Old 09-30-2017, 01:44 PM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mel View Post
SNIP
In this situation can you not reverse the direction of the bolt, putting the "head" of the bolt near your foot?
Not in the RV-10 - there is not enough clearance on the tunnel wall to have the nut and cotter pin on the other side.

Carl
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  #5  
Old 09-30-2017, 06:05 PM
cross cross is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Vernon, British Columbia,
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Default M517825 nuts

I had this happen and damaged my rv4 including a prop strike. I had used epoxy over the cotter pin which broke and the nut backed off.
I replaced the nut with a combination self-locking and castled nut which I safety wired with wire instead of a cotter pin. I used a slightly longer bolt to leave room for a thin stainless jam nut. The jam nut protects the safety wire and is more visible for pre-flight checks (in the 4 the peddles are in a well and hard to see)
Chuck Ross RV4 Vernon BC
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  #6  
Old 10-02-2017, 05:55 AM
GregMac GregMac is offline
 
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Location: Albany Western Australia
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I agree with Carl and Mel and sympathise with Chuck and his experience with the RV4. .........but I did away with the castellated nut and split pins on the RV10 for the same reasons you mentioned, .......the split pins just made to catch your socks/shoes etc, harder assembly and later maintenance,....... and nylocs just simply look better/neater. Notwithstanding as has been said, that any bolt subject to rotation should be split pin retained, the RV10 rudder linkage is subject to very little rotation as the action of rudder applications basically only results in an inline movement back and forth. I put on the standard size nylocs (not the mini width style) The rudder linkage on the RV10 is very visible at all times, my aircraft has now flown 150hours and the retainer nylocs haven't moved on either the pilot or copilot side. Just my experience. Cheers from Western Australia
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  #7  
Old 10-02-2017, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Froehlich View Post
Not in the RV-10 - there is not enough clearance on the tunnel wall to have the nut and cotter pin on the other side. Carl
Then how about replacing the bolt with a clevis pin? The "pinned" side of a clevis with a washer and cotter pin would be much shorter than a nut and should fit nicely between the cable and the tunnel wall.
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A&P/EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor
Specializing in Amateur-Built and Light-Sport Aircraft
<n168tx(at)flytx.net>
North Texas (8TA5)
RV-6 Flying since 1993
175hp O-320
3-Blade Catto (since 2003)
FRIEND of the RV-1
Eagle's Nest Mentor

Last edited by Mel : 10-02-2017 at 08:57 AM.
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  #8  
Old 10-02-2017, 08:58 AM
paul330 paul330 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMac View Post
....... and nylocs just simply look better/neater.
Really? That's a good reason for deviating from standard practice? If it is subject to rotation then you use a bolt/castellated nut or cotter pin/split pin. End of..... The fact that your installation has shown no signs of issues does not mean it is right. Every non-standard fitting behaves impeccably right up to the moment it doesn't. I simply don't see any need for this kind of deviation on a primary flight control.

Harsh words, maybe, but sorry......
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  #9  
Old 10-02-2017, 01:33 PM
AviatorJ AviatorJ is offline
 
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Can't you use safety wire instead of the cotter pins? Right now I have mine just cleco'd but looking at the picture and seems you could do that. Or is the issue snagging on the castle nut tops?
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  #10  
Old 10-02-2017, 01:53 PM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
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Default Why Not?

Why not use a castellated nut and cotter key with one of these:


https://www.mcmaster.com/#nut-caps/=19n20q2
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