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Old 09-11-2017, 06:58 AM
Joeyo68 Joeyo68 is offline
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Frankston, Victoria, Australia
Posts: 81

Hi Trent,
It can be applied with cheesecloth accorrding to the tech sheet. It does not take too long to dry either. In a warm environment, it is usually dry within 20-30 mins
I usually mix, then start prepping parts. It has a decent pot life.
I work for PPG, so get mine through work, and don't get too much choice. I would have preferred eap12, but they only had some eap9 at the time.
If you make contact with Adrian Port through either here (username Tassie), or through his website (, he will be able to direct you to where he has bought his from. (Adrian is using the same system, and is alodining). Check his build log, there is lots on how he is priming.
Flying friends RV7A
Built RV7 empennage.
Building wings done - minus glass and lights.
Building Fuselage
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Old 09-11-2017, 08:19 AM
TASEsq TASEsq is offline
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 100

Truly thank you for all your responses.

Looking into all of this has been confusing, especially since most commonly used products on the forums and net etc can't readily be gotten in Australia.

In considering the options, and that I will be doing this in my backyard, I am leaning toward the stewart systems paint. My only concern here is the durability to fluids. The ekoprime (although recommended by Stewart's via email) would be great as it is single part, and i can put it back in the can (and cheaper) but I would be seriously worried about fuel causing it to come off.

That leaves the ekopoxy which they say is fluid resistant. I understand not as resistant as akzo or ppg etc but then the Rv doesn't have skydrol etc. all we need to worry about is some fuel and maybe brake fluid? (Oil?).

A question for Tom: did you buy your ekopoxy from the US or from skyshop?
How come you didn't decide to do the ekoclean and ekoetch products as well?

The final concern; is using a waterbased product going to limit my options when I finally get around to exterior painting?

I think the next step is to order the vans practice kit and some paint and have at it!

Thanks again all.
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Old 09-11-2017, 01:08 PM
tims88 tims88 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 50

I've been using EkoPoxy to prime my RV-10. It's quite durable in my opinion, but I've found that it needs about 48 hours to cure enough for me to be comfortable working with the parts. After 48 hours, it's very tough to scratch and dimpling won't bother it, but I can still scrape some off with a bucking bar if I'm not careful enough while riveting.

I've had a few parts that I wasn't satisfied with the way I sprayed them (problems with the spray gun) and decided to remove the primer the next day and start over. Lacquer thinner and a towel will remove the stuff but the amount of scrubbing it takes is one heck of a workout!
Arvada, CO
RV-10 In Progress
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Old 09-11-2017, 03:55 PM
tgmillso tgmillso is offline
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Launceston, Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 618

I purchased my ekopoxy direct from Stewart Systems when I brought my kit over. Regarding the prep process for the ekopoxy, I did this exactly per Stewart Systems recommendations (using ekoclean, ekoetch, maroon scotchbrite etc) and was very happy with the results. For the Wattyl Superetch the process clean, scotchbrite, clean. Surface cleaning and prep is probably the most critical item if you want any of these primers to stick correctly. Also, if you are really concerned about chemical resistance, then you can always top coat the components. I have top coated items with PU such as the wheel pant attach brackets etc. where I need extra durability or chemical resistance.
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Old 09-15-2017, 09:36 AM
Vansrv7arob Vansrv7arob is offline
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 122
Default Sea air land

Originally Posted by TASEsq View Post
In the preliminary stages and planning before an emp order, and had a question on priming.

Without getting into a big debate, I think i understand the pros and cons to priming, and from reading a million posts it seems some form of prep is in order (alumiprep alone, alumiprep / alodine, prekote) followed by a primer.

All these products are easily found in Australia ( I think prekote sounds like the best option as it is very safe and easily washed away.

Seems the akzo 463 primer is popular, and bulletproof (and likely the best choice), BUT:
1. Where the heck do you buy that in Australia (a moderately dedicated search came up with nothing)
2. The health problems and cleanup problems may be hard to justify in my garage with a 3 year old running around.
3. Shipping from the US would be $$$ due HAZMAT

So, that leaves the stewart systems primer?
1. I assume shipping is not too bad as it is not volatile and likely not DG?
2. Not certain on the compatibiity with other paints though. Their website isn't very clear on this.
3. Is it as bulletproof as akzo?

In summary, if people have chosen to prime and they are in AUS, what systems did you choose and can you give a quick summary of your process / what suppliers you used (hopefully local).

Thanks again I advance. Appreciate any help.
Call or email Glen McKensie seairland for AkZO Glen is awesome and will get you sorted with paint. Make sure you wear a respirator.

I'll PM his contact number and email address.

................./ ' \.

M: (61) 401 578 700
Fax (61) 2 9410 1924
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Old 09-20-2017, 08:42 AM
Aiki_Aviator's Avatar
Aiki_Aviator Aiki_Aviator is offline
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 233

@andrew - what is the difference between the EAP-9/12 and the alumiprep? Does the EAP-9/12 not etch the surface to paint? I watched their video and it seems a very long winded process (induction time, spraying, dabbing off excess etc). How did you get around the mixing when doing small parts (the activator is in a pretty small bottle and seems hard to weight out accurately).

Answer: The Alumiprep is an etch that makes sure that you have a substrate that is "rough" to help the binding of the product. The EAP-9/12 is not meant to require it, however, I added it for additional comfort of adhesion. The EAP-9/12 is a product that effectively creates a layer that has a bonding to the Aluminium and creates a bonding layer for the Epoxy. Helps the Epoxy bond.

Do you guys find you had much contamination of oil since you were using air tools and a sprayer on the same compressor? Or did you run a seperate line from the compressor for painting? (I was thinking of a split right out of the compressor - one way into the walls for the shop air (tools) and the other off the compressor for painting only).

Answer: I ran a few filters/condensers and separators. I had two in line and then one at the gun. I specifically had a spray gun line and an airtools line. I only used the line for the spray gun with the spray gun, and visa-versa. Another tip I picked up is run your line across the concrete as far as possible prior to the condenser filters, it helps to condense the water vapor allowing the filter condensers to work at their optimum.

Hope this helps.
Andrew Long
RV10: Happy little Vegemite :-)
Feb 2015: Now fully functional..... and quick
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Old 09-20-2017, 08:48 AM
Aiki_Aviator's Avatar
Aiki_Aviator Aiki_Aviator is offline
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 233
Default Just a follow up.

In addition, the EAP9 only needs to be mist coated to work well. No need to wipe off any runs.

I used the 3M PPS system also. Very nice.

The coating is as hard as an epoxy should be.

I generally collected a number of parts and did a parts "paint run". The small amount of the activator I just used a syringe to measure. It worked very well.

Extremely happy with results and no need to worry about being poisoned. Military use it so works for me.

Have fun.. :-)
Andrew Long
RV10: Happy little Vegemite :-)
Feb 2015: Now fully functional..... and quick
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Old 09-20-2017, 11:36 AM
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az_gila az_gila is online now
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 9,549
Smile Small jobs

Since the Akzo has an easy 1:1 mixing ratio I found that small jobs can be handled with the 1 oz jar in a cheap Badger air brush. It's also easy to clean.

For slightly bigger small jobs a 2 oz jar is also available.
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
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