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  #11  
Old 06-14-2017, 09:23 AM
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Phantom30 Phantom30 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Driftdown View Post
All good stuff Jolly.

I consider you a valuable resource to our forum here.
"ditto"! "Ditto"!
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  #12  
Old 09-26-2017, 09:55 PM
ben barron ben barron is offline
 
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Default warm oil before change?

I did not see any notes about warming the oil (running the engine) before changing the oil. Is this recommended?
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  #13  
Old 09-27-2017, 04:56 AM
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Its always a good idea to warm the oil so it flows easily but also so the oil stirs up and any sludge gets into suspension so it exits when the oil is drained.
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  #14  
Old 12-06-2017, 12:58 PM
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I ran out of time yesterday, but after following all the instructions carefully, after adding the 3 liters of new oil and hand propping it 20 revolutions, the oil level was still far too high. Is that normal and should I just expect the runup to fill the filter or whatever, and lower the level to normal?
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  #15  
Old 12-06-2017, 01:45 PM
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In the video on Rotax-owner.com it says something like approx, or about 3 liters. So next time try 2.7 liters. But for now it will probably work out fine after your first flight. It will read at the very top of the flat mark. If you want pull the plane out and motor the engine with the ignition off for 20 seconds. Then start it and run till temps come up to normal then shut down and check for leaks and the level again.

PS: What Scott said!
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  #16  
Old 12-06-2017, 03:46 PM
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Interesting! My reference is out at the hangar, but it was quite specific about adding 3 liters..

Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
The change instructions don't say to add 3 liters.
The system holds approx. 3 liters but when you do an oil change you are not fully removing all of the oil from the system.
A refill usually only takes about 2.5 L.
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  #17  
Old 12-06-2017, 03:52 PM
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Maybe I was following this earlier advice in this thread as well, which apparently is incorrect.
QUOTE=Jolly;1179976]Rotate the prop first to get the tank gurgle. This pushes the excess oil back to the tank from the crankcase. If you fail to do this you might over fill the tank later and just make a mess all over the asphalt. Remove the oil tank drain plug and drain the oil. Fill the tank with 3 liters of Aero Shell Sport Plus 4. The containers come in liters. Do not put in less. 3 liters fills the new oil filter and puts the level at the top of the flat area on the dipstick. Don't forget to safety wire the oil tank plug. Remove the old oil filter and install the new one. After the oil filter starts to touch the case housing rotate the oil filter 3/4 turn. You most likely won't get this without a wrench. Then remove the magnetic oil plug and look for long slivers, chunks of metal or if it looks like it has a beard. If it has a few specs here and there that is normal. There is a Rotax SB out on this with pictures. Replace the magnetic plug and safety wire. Now that every thing is back in place and oil in the tank rotate the prop approximately 20 times. This will help pre fill the oil filter and help relieve any air in the system. The Rotax oil filter has a check valve in it and can't be pre filled. Some air is okay. Now you can start the engine if you want.

Hope this helps.[/quote]
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  #18  
Old 12-07-2017, 06:17 PM
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You are correct, the maint manual says "Pour in approx 3l(0.8 gal(US)
of fresh oil." Drops you off there, never saying to add to correct dipstick level or whatever.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
The change instructions don't say to add 3 liters.
The system holds approx. 3 liters but when you do an oil change you are not fully removing all of the oil from the system.
A refill usually only takes about 2.5 L.
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AF1 (was RV12) EAB Air Force One, SN 461, N461DG VIKING/HONDA ENGINE POWERED! AND N756TS ROTAX POWERED
A&P, PP-SEL, Pathological Flier, EAA Technical Counselor
EAA Chapter 595 President,http://www.595.eaachapter.org/index.htm
Retired US Army Officer
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index....X&project=1903
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  #19  
Old 12-07-2017, 10:06 PM
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I think its important to understand that all the manuals were originally written in German. Then translated to english as well as many other languages. Sometimes the translation loses some important subtleties in the info presented.
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