VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics


Go Back   VAF Forums > Model Specific > RV-12
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 06-12-2017, 06:51 PM
DonFromTX's Avatar
DonFromTX DonFromTX is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: La Feria Texas
Posts: 3,639
Default Oil Change Instructiions

OK, I have been changing oil for over 65 years, but thought I would check to see if my newly acquired Rotax was any different. To my dismay, although th previous owner included many manuals and papers, I can find NOTHING on changing the oil. Where should I be looking?
__________________
AF1 (was RV12) EAB Air Force One, SN 461, N461DG VIKING/HONDA ENGINE POWERED! AND N756TS ROTAX POWERED
A&P, PP-SEL, Pathological Flier, EAA Technical Counselor
EAA Chapter 595 President,http://www.595.eaachapter.org/index.htm
Retired US Army Officer
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index....X&project=1903
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 06-12-2017, 07:18 PM
Jesse's Avatar
Jesse Jesse is online now
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: X35 - Ocala, FL
Posts: 3,177
Default

For a simple oil change just drain and refill the tank without leaving it empty for long. With the filter also, there's a little more to it. You should be able to google some good videos about what to do with each line when you pull the can to wipe it out. If you let oil out of certain lines you have to do a pressure purge.
__________________
Jesse Saint (Saint Aviation, Inc. - VAF Advertiser)
352-427-0285
jesse@saintaviation.com
RV Hotel (hangar, room, car) at X35 in north FL

Commercial ASEL/S A&P/IA EAA Technical Counselor

Dynamic Prop Balancing, Prebuy Inspections, Condition Inspections, Repairs and Mods, Injector Tuning, Airframe, Engine, Panel Upgrades, Ferrying, etc.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 06-12-2017, 07:58 PM
DHeal DHeal is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Windsor, California
Posts: 615
Default

There is a lot of information on maintaining the ROTAX 912 ULS on the following sites: 1.) www.rotax-owner.com and 2.) http://www.flyrotax.com/services/tec...mentation.html

One unique caveat regarding the 912's oil change (and in general): Do not turn the propeller backwards. That may cause air pockets to form in the various oil lines and require a "purging" of the oil system. "Purging" is not the same as the more typical "burping" of the oil system. This is all explained in the ROTAX service publications and various informational videos.

Keep in mind that the 912 is not like a Cont/Lyco/Frank -- the 912 requires specific maintenance techniques and procedures that are somewhat different from those used on traditional aircraft engines.
__________________
David Heal - Windsor, CA (near Santa Rosa)
EAA #23982 - EAA Technical Counselor and Flight Advisor; CFI - A&I
RV-12 E-LSA #120496 (SV w/ AP and ADS-B) - N124DH flying since March 2014 - 570+ hours (as of Dec 2017)!
VAF donation through June 2018.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 06-12-2017, 08:00 PM
PilotBrent PilotBrent is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Hackettstown, NJ
Posts: 417
Default

Don, suggest you download the most current ROTAX MAINTENANCE MANUAL from the FlyRotax website (you want the Line Maintenance Manual) All the latest ROTAX manuals are available online and should be referenced. The site has lots of factory documents for download.

http://www.flyrotax.com/services/tec...mentation.html

Oil change is described on pg49. As mentioned, not complicated at all, but follow the torque specs etc... and you'll avoid problems later.

Better yet, 2 day service course is very worthwhile. Its not a Lycoming.
__________________
---------------
Brent Connelly
Hackettstown, NJ
RV-12, N913BC
Hobbs over 390 hours and on second set of main tires!
http://www.mykitlog.com/brent45

Check out & subscribe to my Youtube channel for latest RV-12 flying videos...
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxQ...Px2I7jmazGdLqg
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 06-12-2017, 08:46 PM
Jolly Jolly is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 25
Default

Rotate the prop first to get the tank gurgle. This pushes the excess oil back to the tank from the crankcase. If you fail to do this you might over fill the tank later and just make a mess all over the asphalt. Remove the oil tank drain plug and drain the oil. Fill the tank with 3 liters of Aero Shell Sport Plus 4. The containers come in liters. Do not put in less. 3 liters fills the new oil filter and puts the level at the top of the flat area on the dipstick. Don't forget to safety wire the oil tank plug. Remove the old oil filter and install the new one. After the oil filter starts to touch the case housing rotate the oil filter 3/4 turn. You most likely won't get this without a wrench. Then remove the magnetic oil plug and look for long slivers, chunks of metal or if it looks like it has a beard. If it has a few specs here and there that is normal. There is a Rotax SB out on this with pictures. Replace the magnetic plug and safety wire. Now that every thing is back in place and oil in the tank rotate the prop approximately 20 times. This will help pre fill the oil filter and help relieve any air in the system. The Rotax oil filter has a check valve in it and can't be pre filled. Some air is okay. Now you can start the engine if you want.

Hope this helps.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 06-12-2017, 08:58 PM
DonFromTX's Avatar
DonFromTX DonFromTX is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: La Feria Texas
Posts: 3,639
Default

Wow, that helped a lot!! Thanks.
I am aware of the unique needs of the Rotax, and will certainly download manuals, all I can get. For today all I wanted to do is get some fresh oil and filter on it.

QUOTE=Jolly;1179976]Rotate the prop first to get the tank gurgle. This pushes the excess oil back to the tank from the crankcase. If you fail to do this you might over fill the tank later and just make a mess all over the asphalt. Remove the oil tank drain plug and drain the oil. Fill the tank with 3 liters of Aero Shell Sport Plus 4. The containers come in liters. Do not put in less. 3 liters fills the new oil filter and puts the level at the top of the flat area on the dipstick. Don't forget to safety wire the oil tank plug. Remove the old oil filter and install the new one. After the oil filter starts to touch the case housing rotate the oil filter 3/4 turn. You most likely won't get this without a wrench. Then remove the magnetic oil plug and look for long slivers, chunks of metal or if it looks like it has a beard. If it has a few specs here and there that is normal. There is a Rotax SB out on this with pictures. Replace the magnetic plug and safety wire. Now that every thing is back in place and oil in the tank rotate the prop approximately 20 times. This will help pre fill the oil filter and help relieve any air in the system. The Rotax oil filter has a check valve in it and can't be pre filled. Some air is okay. Now you can start the engine if you want.

Hope this helps.[/quote]
__________________
AF1 (was RV12) EAB Air Force One, SN 461, N461DG VIKING/HONDA ENGINE POWERED! AND N756TS ROTAX POWERED
A&P, PP-SEL, Pathological Flier, EAA Technical Counselor
EAA Chapter 595 President,http://www.595.eaachapter.org/index.htm
Retired US Army Officer
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index....X&project=1903
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 06-13-2017, 06:52 AM
bruceflys bruceflys is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Ocala, FL (Leeward Air Ranch)
Posts: 95
Default Nicely Stated

You presented an excellent oil change process outline, Jolly. But just to be sure, I would emphasize that the oil system should be open at only one place at a time. The tank should be connected and contain oil while changing the filter. The filter should be in place while draining and refilling the tank. Otherwise air will enter the oil circuit, which then requires the pressure purging process.
__________________
Bruce

RV-10 - 95% complete project For Sale
RV-12 - built for wife now flying light sport
SeaRey flying 2012 - Sold 2017
2017 Contribution made
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 06-13-2017, 09:09 AM
Jolly Jolly is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 25
Default

Hi Bruce,

You can drain the oil tank and then remove the oil filter and you will not loose any more oil. The reason for this is the oil pump design. It will not allow any significant oil volume other than a little oozing to come through the pump. If oil could flow through the pump on its own then there would be no reason to turn the prop to turn the oil pump during an oil purge. You can test this by draining the tank and removing the filter after it is drained. Then try it your way. The small oil loss at the filter will not change. Then when you put the oil and filter back in play and "Vent" the system by rotating the prop it will fill the oil filter and help purge the small amount of air in the system. The air introduction at this point is small. I typically have my new oil filter ready to screw on when I remove the old one to just help keep the oil drool mess to a minimum.
Here's another thing I learned on the Rotax forum. When you want to pull and clean the tank you can disconnect the fittings on top of the oil tank and just put a rubber stopper in the so they don't lose any oil if they hang down. The system will not lose any more oil than a regular oil change because the oil drains from the fittings anyway. Then you can replace the tank, connect the oil fittings and fill the tank with oil and do a vent like you do for a regular oil change.
No reason for an oil purge. Purging and venting are two different things as spelled out in Rotax SB's.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 06-14-2017, 07:27 AM
bruceflys bruceflys is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Ocala, FL (Leeward Air Ranch)
Posts: 95
Default Good Point

I take your point, Jolly, and thanks. The caution I expressed was repeated several times in a Rotax maintenance course that I took a few years ago. Perhaps the instructor feared inadvertent prop turning while the oil circuit was open at two places, which would introduce air.
__________________
Bruce

RV-10 - 95% complete project For Sale
RV-12 - built for wife now flying light sport
SeaRey flying 2012 - Sold 2017
2017 Contribution made
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 06-14-2017, 09:09 AM
Driftdown Driftdown is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Clearwater, Florida
Posts: 295
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolly View Post
. . . "You can drain the oil tank and then remove the oil filter and you will not loose any more oil. The reason for this is the oil pump design. It will not allow any significant oil volume other than a little oozing to come through the pump. If oil could flow through the pump on its own then there would be no reason to turn the prop to turn the oil pump during an oil purge. You can test this by draining the tank and removing the filter after it is drained. Then try it your way. The small oil loss at the filter will not change. Then when you put the oil and filter back in play and "Vent" the system by rotating the prop it will fill the oil filter and help purge the small amount of air in the system. The air introduction at this point is small. I typically have my new oil filter ready to screw on when I remove the old one to just help keep the oil drool mess to a minimum.
Here's another thing I learned on the Rotax forum. When you want to pull and clean the tank you can disconnect the fittings on top of the oil tank and just put a rubber stopper in the so they don't lose any oil if they hang down. The system will not lose any more oil than a regular oil change because the oil drains from the fittings anyway. Then you can replace the tank, connect the oil fittings and fill the tank with oil and do a vent like you do for a regular oil change.
No reason for an oil purge. Purging and venting are two different things as spelled out in Rotax SB's."
All good stuff Jolly.
And thanks for sharing your experience on flying light sport airplanes.
Your explanation on airspeed/pitch and altitude-GS/power makes a lot of sense and works for many of us.
Looking forward to more of your tips on Rotax care and flying LSA.

I consider you a valuable resource to our forum here.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:26 PM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.