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  #21  
Old 08-17-2015, 10:42 PM
riobison riobison is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Oliver BC & Red Deer Alberta Canada
Posts: 308
Default Tail wheel locking options

Gents

After changing parts and evaluating everything I'm sure my tail wheel is and was working properly. The tail wheel and parts have consistently been inspected, cleaned, lightly oiled and function tested every 25 to 30 hrs. I have religiously followed this procedure as it has been posted for the last 3 yrs that I have owned the plane. I have the screen door style chains and they are set with a good 3/4"slack with the tail wheel on the ground. With the wheel in the air and with almost full rudder deflection it WILL Disengage the wheel. (that is the design that I have) If I maintain this much rudder while side slipping in and trying to keep the plane lined up, the wheel will be in a free castering mode and the plane will weathervane and take off like a lawn dart into the wind as soon as the wheel touches down. The only real way around that is that I would need to relax the rudder somewhat to get the wheel to lock in before setting the tail wheel down. With a real strong cross wind that would be for the most part would be impossible to do in the majority of cases.

Some of the options that I'm seeing would be to cut the groove back a bit as Vince suggests but there are pros and cons to this with probably minimal gains. With full rudder deflection the end result would probably be very similar. A mechanical style locking tail wheel like on the Harvard or maybe with an electric solenoid and pin.............................Or I will probably accept my direct cross wind component with this plane as being around the 15 knot mark.

Thanks

Tim
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  #22  
Old 08-18-2015, 12:20 PM
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vfrazier vfrazier is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Mount Vernon, IN
Posts: 1,031
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Tim,

If you cut the groove all of the way around the inside of the housing (please don't!) then your tailwheel would never unlock. So, there is also some point along that groove where your tailwheel won't unlock with rudder deflection under normal conditions. It sounds like your groove wasn't cut sufficiently around the inside of the housing. It's easy enough to fix. A 5/8" end mill will do the trick.

This ain't my first rodeo.... if you want to pop the top off of your tailwheel assembly and shoot me a photo or two, I might be able to spot the problem. Something sure seems amiss.

send to vincefrazier@gmail.com
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  #23  
Old 08-18-2015, 09:40 PM
riobison riobison is offline
 
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Location: Oliver BC & Red Deer Alberta Canada
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Hello Vince,

Ill take a foto and get it off to you.

Thanks

Tim
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  #24  
Old 09-30-2017, 04:54 AM
tgmillso tgmillso is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Launceston, Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 444
Default Tailwheel breakout rudder angle angle

Hi All,
I installed my tailwheel chains today on my JD tailwheel assembly, maintaining approximately 1/2" slack (hard to adjust with the adjustments being one whole link) on both sides when centered. When checking the rudder throw, I noticed that the tailwheel would unlock about 5 degrees before the rudder would hit the stops. The stops are precisely shaped so that the rudder meets the required 1 1/8" inch clearance from the elevators on both sides.
Should this be the case, or do I need to slacken the chains further? My concern with slackening the chains further is that it could make the thing interesting, as the next link makes the chains super loose.
To fully demonstrate my lack of tailwheel understanding, at what angle should the tailwheel be disconnecting, if at all (unless of course you stand on a brake to purposely unlock it)? During the 9 hours training I have spent in a tailwheel RV, for much of it the tailwheel was not working correctly as the locking mechanism had failed, so I don't have a lot of practical experience to go by.
Tom.
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  #25  
Old 09-30-2017, 05:17 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgmillso View Post
Hi All,
When checking the rudder throw, I noticed that the tailwheel would unlock about 5 degrees before the rudder would hit the stops.
This is an undesirable action and should be corrected before flying in my opinion.

Adding even more slack to the chains is not a good way of resolving the issue.
Reworking the tail wheel for full throw without releasing would be the correct fix.
I am not familiar with the inner mechanics of the JD tail wheel so I can't recommend how to adjust it.
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  #26  
Old 09-30-2017, 05:38 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: 08A
Posts: 7,117
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How to fix it...move the attach points inboard on the rudder horn to change the ratio. And get all the slack out of the chains. Preload the springs a bit as necessary to make the connections. Remember, the release pin retracts based on yoke angle, not rudder angle. Given a sideways push, slack just allows more yoke angle for any given rudder angle.

The eyebolts drop the attach point lower, so the chains/cables/rods/whatever don't scratch the bottom rudder cap

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Last edited by DanH : 09-30-2017 at 05:45 PM.
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  #27  
Old 09-30-2017, 07:52 PM
tgmillso tgmillso is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Launceston, Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 444
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Thanks Scott and Dan.

Dan a further two questions for you. First, are the castellated nuts on the AN115 cable shackles fully tightened up with the pivot point being between the cable shackle and the spring, or are they just pinned loose so they can swivel in the tail wheel holes? Secondly, I presume that you can move your rudder to both stops by hand without the tailwheel unlocking using the new bolt positions in the rudder horn, so is the only way you can unlock your tail by standing on one brake?

Thanks.

Tom.
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  #28  
Old 09-30-2017, 08:33 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Location: 08A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgmillso View Post
First, are the castellated nuts on the AN115 cable shackles fully tightened up with the pivot point being between the cable shackle and the spring, or are they just pinned loose so they can swivel in the tail wheel holes?
Pinned

Quote:
Secondly, I presume that you can move your rudder to both stops by hand without the tailwheel unlocking using the new bolt positions in the rudder horn, so is the only way you can unlock your tail by standing on one brake?
I should probably put the tail in the air and check fine details of rudder travel, etc before offering a transferable absolute. Frankly I've never paid much attention to exactly how much side force it takes. I just swing into a parking space with a brake, and it works. Pretty sure doesn't unlock if I merely taxi slow with the rudder against the stops.
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Last edited by DanH : 09-30-2017 at 08:37 PM.
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  #29  
Old 10-01-2017, 03:36 AM
tgmillso tgmillso is offline
 
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Location: Launceston, Tasmania, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanH View Post
Frankly I've never paid much attention to exactly how much side force it takes..
You, Dan, not quantify something??? I don't believe it for a second.

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  #30  
Old 10-01-2017, 04:20 AM
Christopher Murphy Christopher Murphy is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: colorado
Posts: 726
Default Tailwheel

If you cant keep the airplane on the runway with full rudder deflection and brake application the tailwheel which probably has less than 45lbs of weight on it will probably just skid the same as your main tire did anyway.

If you ever had the non full swivel tailwheel you may have experienced this...

Cm
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