VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

  #11  
Old 01-21-2015, 09:01 PM
sahrens's Avatar
sahrens sahrens is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Northern CA
Posts: 313
Default F-770 rivet call outs at the longeron

When referencing the rivet call out on plans page 28 be sure to check page 44 for the screw call out. There are nine locations under the horizontal stabilizer that will be tapped for screws to attach the lower tail fairing. On page 28 it shows rivets in those locations.
__________________
Scott Ahrens
N818BG (reserved)
Last 1% in progress
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-22-2015, 08:41 AM
bret's Avatar
bret bret is online now
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gardnerville Nv.
Posts: 2,686
Default

QB wings will need the rear spar trimed to corect sweep when doing the rear spar - fuse drilling.
__________________
7A Slider, EFII Angle 360, CS, SJ.
2017 gladly supported
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-29-2015, 01:08 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 2,726
Default Horizontal Stabilizer DWG 3

I wanted to document some of the issues I found with the revised manual pages for noobies. If this is your first component, I suggest building the Vertical Stab first. There are a few tricky spots on the HS.
1. Page 6-2. Drill a #30 relief hole in HS702.
I marked the location of the hole according to plans then placed the 702 spar on a 45 degree square and center punched with the punch held 90 degrees to the bench. This placed the mark exactly at the 1/2 radius bend line of the spar flange. From here it's easy to enlarge to 1/4" and trim the ends of the flange per plan.
There is also a trim on the ends of the spar flanges shown on the trim detail where the most inboard skin hole would be. This part can't be cut until you know where the second hole from the center on the spar flange will end up.
2. Bend the HS 710 and 714 angles
Mark the line, place in a vice between pieces of wood block. Measure the starting point with a protractor and bend carefully till the protractor reads 6 degrees. Creep up slowly. Remove it and check several times. Note HS714 is much harder to bend than HS710.
3. Notch the aft flange of HS00006.
Don't do it per plans. Place it between 710 and 714 and see how much needs to be cut. It's not much.
4. Prepare the ribs.
I recommend drawing center lines on the flanges of the ribs and the spars. They come in handy later.
5. Page 6-3. Match drill the holes in the skin to the HS00005 rib.
The manual then directs to clamp parts together to drill flange to spar holes. I would not drill skin holes till all structural holes are drilled and clekoed tight.
As usual YMMV.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/01/2017. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (1,800+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-29-2015, 01:33 PM
gasman gasman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 3,341
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sahrens View Post
When referencing the rivet call out on plans page 28 be sure to check page 44 for the screw call out. There are nine locations under the horizontal stabilizer that will be tapped for screws to attach the lower tail fairing. On page 28 it shows rivets in those locations.
this faring will never need to be removed..... just rivet it on.
__________________
VAF #897
2017 =VAF= Dues PAID
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-30-2015, 03:13 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 2,726
Default F-601J DWG 19

When you fabricate the F-601J Angle, make note that it doesn't lay flat against the F-601M Stiffener. There's a note on the plan to set it 3/32" above the top face of the stiffener. There is a note to radius the edge to fit inside the stiffener but it requires very little as it is not resting on the flange.
More parts for my scrap pile and more waiting for aluminum angle. My fault.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/01/2017. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (1,800+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 01-30-2015, 03:17 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 2,726
Default F-601P DWG 19

When you fabricate F601P, don't drill the hole per plan. Radius the edge, fillet the corners so it fits into the notch in F-601C. Place it in the assembly, cleko the surrounding parts and mark the hole from the back side with a sharpie. Then remove it and drill the hole where it needs to be. You'll get a better fit on the part. Yea. I made two more.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/01/2017. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (1,800+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 02-11-2015, 12:57 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 2,726
Default F-633, DWG 11

The destructions say "fabricate F-633". After studying the plans for a detail, I finally looked at the inventory. It's already built. They are in Subkit 13.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/01/2017. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (1,800+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 02-11-2015, 01:30 PM
DaleB's Avatar
DaleB DaleB is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
Posts: 1,729
Default

Maybe this would be a good place to mention...

I believe more than one of us has probably searched high and low for angle pieces to make F-628B, F-629B and other pieces. I know I had a stack of long angle pieces that were packed with the wing spars, all of it carefully put away and was not sure which were used for the fuselage longerons and which were safe to cut up.

Fuse longerons are .125 angle. The .063 angle can be used where needed, so you (probably) don't have to order more from Van's.
__________________
Dale
Omaha, NE
RV-12 # 222 N980KM "Screamin' Canary" (bought flying)
Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
Previous RV-7 project (sold)
-=VAF=- 2017 dues paid
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 02-12-2015, 07:27 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 2,726
Default WD610/WD611/WD612, DWG 38

This is starting to get an annoying.
The destructions say to grind the columns and bushings to a slip fit into the column weldments. No problem. Note that the control sticks should pivot smoothly on the bushings just like the bellcranks. So the bushing should be a 64th-32nd longer than the column. No problem. Done that. The problem is, in my case, the bushing does not fit well. I had to clean up the hole in the column so the bushing rotates smoothly.
After looking closely at these holes, the welding process leaves bumps inside the hole. They even zip tied the bushing inside the column as if it would fall out. Mine fit so poor, I had to drive them out.
__________________
Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/01/2017. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (1,800+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 02-12-2015, 08:09 PM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 4,006
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
This is starting to get an annoying.
The destructions say to grind the columns and bushings to a slip fit into the column weldments. No problem. Note that the control sticks should pivot smoothly on the bushings just like the bellcranks. So the bushing should be a 64th-32nd longer than the column. No problem. Done that. The problem is, in my case, the bushing does not fit well. I had to clean up the hole in the column so the bushing rotates smoothly.
After looking closely at these holes, the welding process leaves bumps inside the hole. They even zip tied the bushing inside the column as if it would fall out. Mine fit so poor, I had to drive them out.
These bushings in the stick are problematic. The tube welded to the stick gets distorted slightly, then the tube is DRILLED, and it is typically no longer round. I have two sticks to prove it. You would do well first to ream the tube for the bushing, then measure both. It will likely be loose, but with a little extra length before installation, it will crush slightly and expand to help fill the gap. More than .001 clearance and the stick will be loose.

I have many more details and a long tale to go with them. Let us know more specifics of your problem.

My original stick was loose, in the tale, a new stick was purchased, still loose, and I made a custom bushing to fit. Fits nicely now, no slop.
__________________
Bill

Op Lims in hand 12-7-17
Prep for 1st flight underway.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:44 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.