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  #1  
Old 12-03-2014, 10:02 PM
simatos simatos is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: vancouver canada
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Default routing Ray Allen Trim servo wires

what is a safe way to get the servo wires from the elevator to the Horizontal stab??? Thanks Gary
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  #2  
Old 12-04-2014, 12:31 AM
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bruceh bruceh is offline
 
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I used D-sub pins and sockets staggered to make the trim servo removable.


Cover the now connected wiring with some expandable sleeving and heat shrink.


The hole on the elevator spar that the wiring goes through also conflicts with the threaded rod that sticks out on the servo. I drilled a smaller hole above that large hole big enough for a small snap bushing sized for the sleeved wiring. I made the new hole close enough to the existing hole so I could cut a small slot between the two holes so that the servo wire could be slipped into the new hole from the existing larger hole.

Picture this (rotated 90 degrees):

o=O

(crude ASCII drawing representation of big hole and small hole connected by a small slot)

Simply slit the small snap bushing with a utility knife so you can install it over the servo wire then snap it into place in the new smaller hole you drilled. The snap bushing fills the new hole and the slot is small enough to not affect the stability of the snap bushing to stay in the wiring hole.

Once you get the servo installed in the elevator, you can pull the wiring back into the fuselage and make a service loop there for the excess wire.
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  #3  
Old 12-04-2014, 12:15 PM
simatos simatos is offline
 
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Location: vancouver canada
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Bruce Thanks, So it is normal for the jack screw to go thru the elevator spar?
I have the Ray Allen servo T3-12A form Vans. I was starting to wonder if it might be too big, it travel is 1.2 inches. Plans refer to servo "ES-MSTS-BA" Right now i have the servo way too close to the spar and it is even difficult to fish the wires thru there with out squashing them and of course there is no room for the jack screw to go to the end of its forward travel as it hits the spar.
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  #4  
Old 12-04-2014, 01:34 PM
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bruceh bruceh is offline
 
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If you are using Van's electric trim install kit, the position of the Ray Allen Servo should be fine. I don't think the jack screw moves fore and aft, it just rotates in the unit and moves the linkage to the trim tab. It shouldn't be hitting any part of the elevator.
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  #5  
Old 12-04-2014, 03:43 PM
simatos simatos is offline
 
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Actually it does screw out the one end of the servo box over an inch. The servo neeeds to go back the same one inch to allow full range of travel. I like the way you prepared the wires to go back to the tail cone. Thanks G
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  #6  
Old 12-06-2014, 12:46 AM
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Sylvainsting Sylvainsting is offline
 
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Default Wires

Hello Bruce,

I am a young homebuilder and electricity is very new for me. Can you tell me which D sub pins you used and the socket staggered too ? if you have a link to by themů
In advance thank you

Sylvain
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  #7  
Old 12-06-2014, 07:04 AM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sylvainsting View Post
Hello Bruce,

I am a young homebuilder and electricity is very new for me. Can you tell me which D sub pins you used and the socket staggered too ? if you have a link to by themů
In advance thank you

Sylvain
Use the good machined D-Sub pins and sockets.

SteinAir has them

http://www.steinair.com/storedetail.cfm?productid=505
http://www.steinair.com/storedetail.cfm?productid=504

Borrow a good crimping tool for them.
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  #8  
Old 12-06-2014, 10:11 AM
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flion flion is offline
 
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I would recommend cannon plugs instead of D-subs. The best source I have found is Mouser. Here is the data sheet for Amphenol connectors, which has a bewildering array of info: http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/18/inhous...ors-183710.pdf. In my RV-10 I use straight connectors in the 14-5 insert arrangement. They also have what they call 'box mount', which I have always referred to as 'bulkhead', connectors, which I am using for my wing-to-fuselage connections and on my firewall, obviously with a larger number of insert connections. But you might find a use for them in the tail.

I prefer cannon plugs for several reasons. More secure connection, the inserts often seal better against contamination, and the bulkhead connectors make one-handed connections easier in hard to reach places. Nothing against D-subs except I swear at them every time I have to get a screwdriver into a hard to reach place. In fact, they are cheap and reliable.
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  #9  
Old 12-06-2014, 11:06 AM
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bruceh bruceh is offline
 
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Sylvain,

What Gil said! I got my milspec D-sub pins and sockets from Steinair. Very easy to install and crimp onto the wires, then put some heat shrink tubing over the connections to hold them in place. No need to have any connector body taking up space in this spot.
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  #10  
Old 12-06-2014, 11:08 AM
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Here is a tip from Bob Nuckolls "AeroElectric" on a servo connecter using D-subs. I've used this in a couple places including my elevator trim tab servo connection.

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.../macservo.html
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