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  #11  
Old 05-21-2020, 05:09 PM
Beech350guy Beech350guy is offline
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbalch View Post
I've been motoring along pretty well and making good progress nearly every day. One task today, however, has seen me talking to myself out in the garage as I tried to figure it out.

On page 09-18 Step 5, how the heck is one meant to buck those rivets along the rear spar?!? I have the special bucking bar, but that's intended to utilize leverage (when doing the second skin) unavailable with the assembly clamped to the edge of the workbench for this step per the plans. None of my many other bucking bars fit suitably inside the rear spar. Is it a two-person job with the special bar? It'll take two hands on that bar and I'm short a third hand to run the rivet gun...

What am I missing?
I just arrived on page 9-20, figure 1 where that special bucking bar comes in. I have the special bucking bar, but that looks like a wonderful way to screw up my elevator. The blurb above the callouts for the special bucking bar indicates that an MK-319-BS is acceptable for solid rivets anywhere this bucking bar is to be used.

My question: Has anyone else tried using Cherry's in the rear elevator spar? In the hinge portion of the left rear spar, I actually riveted it vertically, as the thought of driving down into the spar directly gave me pause.

I am leaning towards using Cherry's rather that the MK-319-BS's.

I welcome feedback from the group. THanks!
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  #12  
Old 05-21-2020, 05:24 PM
kreidljj kreidljj is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 27
Default It is simple with the special backing bar

The special bucking bar makes quick work of the rear spar rivets. You need to let part of the bar hang off the edge of the table. You push down on the portion of the bar hanging off the table, the bar pivots on the edge of the table, then shoot the rivet. I clamped the part to the table so it didnít move around. I donít know how you would get in there with the tungsten bar (I have one and use it Ďalwaysí), but in this case the special bar is the way to go. - Jason
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  #13  
Old 05-23-2020, 09:18 AM
R&J Cosh R&J Cosh is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Athens
Posts: 5
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Jason is absolutely correct. The special bucking bar works great.
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  #14  
Old 05-23-2020, 10:55 AM
Ralph Inkster Ralph Inkster is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 779
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My tool box contains various old bodyman's hammer heads, various smoothed off chunks of bar stock, a old railroad spike, bars drilled to accept various squeezer sets, whatever works. Sometimes necessity requires creativity. Oh, I have a whole collection of usual Tungsten & steel Bucks too.
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  #15  
Old 05-23-2020, 11:46 AM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 8,729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph Inkster View Post
Sometimes necessity requires creativity.
Ralph is correct. That is the exact reason that the special bucking bar was designed.
The first prototype elevator was built using a 1/4 “ thick piece of steel plate about 3 “ wide by 18” long. It worked but not as well, and it required careful planning of the riveting sequence to avoid interference from previously installed rivets.
The custom bucking bar makes it easy because it focuses a lot of bar mass on the rivet which is important since you have to fulcrum the bar to hold it against the rivet. This excess mass makes the rivets set very easily.
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  #16  
Old 05-23-2020, 11:55 AM
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HAL Pilot HAL Pilot is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Las Vegas NV
Posts: 125
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One option is to use a bar shaped bucking bar or the rv14 Special bucking bar create a fulcrum under the bar and place the end of the bar on the shop head with the rivet gun driving the bar.

I created some diagrams on my "wiki" plans page just after the page in question. See my signature line.
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