Mr Charles
Well Known Member
Sorry for the long explanation, but necessary I think...
I am currently re-vamping my 4 I have owned since 07. Was originally built by another in the late 90's in Canada. Put it in the shop a couple of years ago and what started as a change to the longer gear legs has morphed into a complete repaint, epoxy cowl, glass panel, autopilot install...and on and on! Along the way, most of the original wiring has been "fine tuned"...re-routed, bundled, resized, replaced or added to. So now I am trying to improve on the original wiring concerning the alternator wiring. The original system had the B lead running thru a toggle (labeled "alternator) next to the master...It also had a "push to test" lamp, on a wire that run to alternator. So here is one of the issues. I took photos when I disassembled, but unfortunately I guess I had already pulled off the faston connector of the wire that led to the test light. I also removed the test light, and not sure where the + lead was connected (has a ring terminal on it still). So I started investigating the alternator to determine proper wiring. Here is what I have discovered...
The alternator is a Hitachi. No numbers on it that I can find. It has an F and N spade terminal configuration. The wire from the test light was hooked to one of these two. My research is indicating this was an externally regulated alternator...BUT...there is definitely not an external regulator. It does have a sticker on it showing where it was overhauled by "Aeroelectric LTD" from Canada...probably in the 90's. Is it possible they modified this for an internal regulator? And if so, was the test light then connected to the N terminal? Or was 12v supplied thru the test light to the F (field) terminal? I will not be using the Push to Test warning light with the Skyview taking on that job. But I am totally confused now as to whether this alternator is internally regulated or not, and if I need to provide 12v to the F terminal...either another "toggle" or pull-able circuit breaker?
Can anyone help me with deciphering all this? (I am decent with basic electrical, but not a whiz by any means...)
Charles
I am currently re-vamping my 4 I have owned since 07. Was originally built by another in the late 90's in Canada. Put it in the shop a couple of years ago and what started as a change to the longer gear legs has morphed into a complete repaint, epoxy cowl, glass panel, autopilot install...and on and on! Along the way, most of the original wiring has been "fine tuned"...re-routed, bundled, resized, replaced or added to. So now I am trying to improve on the original wiring concerning the alternator wiring. The original system had the B lead running thru a toggle (labeled "alternator) next to the master...It also had a "push to test" lamp, on a wire that run to alternator. So here is one of the issues. I took photos when I disassembled, but unfortunately I guess I had already pulled off the faston connector of the wire that led to the test light. I also removed the test light, and not sure where the + lead was connected (has a ring terminal on it still). So I started investigating the alternator to determine proper wiring. Here is what I have discovered...
The alternator is a Hitachi. No numbers on it that I can find. It has an F and N spade terminal configuration. The wire from the test light was hooked to one of these two. My research is indicating this was an externally regulated alternator...BUT...there is definitely not an external regulator. It does have a sticker on it showing where it was overhauled by "Aeroelectric LTD" from Canada...probably in the 90's. Is it possible they modified this for an internal regulator? And if so, was the test light then connected to the N terminal? Or was 12v supplied thru the test light to the F (field) terminal? I will not be using the Push to Test warning light with the Skyview taking on that job. But I am totally confused now as to whether this alternator is internally regulated or not, and if I need to provide 12v to the F terminal...either another "toggle" or pull-able circuit breaker?
Can anyone help me with deciphering all this? (I am decent with basic electrical, but not a whiz by any means...)
Charles