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  #111  
Old 05-27-2008, 01:12 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Scott! Rick! Slow down! Ya'll are making me feel like a slug. <g>

Seriously....nice work guys.
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  #112  
Old 05-27-2008, 01:55 PM
lucky lucky is offline
 
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Default Man, you 8 guys are all coming along nicely!

Hope to see you all soon with flying 8s! Are you all going to go full bore over the summer or do you guys take some time off? I took time off during the summers but the last summer I went all out to finish up sooner rather than later. My family was sick of the plane using up the garage and after 5 years I was ready to move to the airport and get that first flight under way!

Lucky
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  #113  
Old 05-28-2008, 07:11 AM
Chris Santschi Chris Santschi is offline
 
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Default Airport ready

Rick:

Did you drill those handles to the rollover bar after it was glassed? or befour.

Chris RV8 627CS Painting at 8WC
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  #114  
Old 05-28-2008, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Santschi View Post
Rick:

Did you drill those handles to the rollover bar after it was glassed? or befour.

Chris RV8 627CS Painting at 8WC
Chris,

I installed the handles a few days ago after finally making up my mind to use them. No big deal to avoid the plexiglass during drill out and used AN3 bolts to attach....much easier than trying to deal with screws and a screwdriver at that awkward angle.
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  #115  
Old 06-02-2008, 11:52 AM
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Here you go Mike.....not much about the canopy setup, but it is a canopy with paint on it.

Scott, is it my imagination, or did I cut my bubble a bit shorter than yours?

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  #116  
Old 06-05-2008, 01:16 PM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
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Default Canopy

Dan,
One of the pics I sent was before I was finished fitting/trimming/gluing the bubble on, but I tried to get it far enough forward to give it a more sloped front and a more even transition at the rear. Then I put a real gradual fillet at the front for the same reason. Your paint job looks good. What did you use and did you use the same on the inside? I want to paint mine inside now before final assembly. What did you use to mask off the plexi on the inside? (lots of tape?) I'm also trying to figure out how to make the edge between the fiberglass and the plexiglass look finished and professional after painting. I'm picking up my welded roll bar/seatback support Saturday and also my front stick. I had two cuts made in the stick with two 45 degree welded bends, moving my stick top back 2". I'll cut off about 1 1/2" from the bottom of my panel and keep my stick longer.

Scott
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  #117  
Old 06-05-2008, 02:51 PM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Scott,
<<Your paint job looks good. What did you use and did you use the same on the inside?>>

PPG DBC base and DCU clear.

<<I want to paint mine inside now before final assembly. What did you use to mask off the plexi on the inside? (lots of tape?)>>

Masked with plastic sheet in several sections so the sections could be taped to the inside of the plexiglass and not drape. Plexi above the glareshield was all tape.

<<I'm also trying to figure out how to make the edge between the fiberglass and the plexiglass look finished and professional after painting.>>

I'm not totally happy with mine because I forgot a detail about metallic base. The fiberglass and K-36 edge was sanded to be flush with the surface of a tape line...a few thousanths thick. For the last mask I used 1/4" 3M Fineline and spaced it off the filler edge about 1/32". Sprayed base and clear, then peeled the fineline tape right quick while the clearcoat was still flowable. As expected, it flowed into a beautiful edge. What I forgot was how metallic flakes in a base coat highlight surface irregularities. Although your fingertips feel a perfect edge, if you look real close you can see the filler edge line in the metallic buried under the clear because of the way the flakes lay.....that 1/32" spacing back to haunt me. What I should have done was mask at the filller line, spray the metallic base, let it flash, then retape with the spacing and spray the clear. Oh well, live and learn.

The inside was done the same way (but no visible line in the metallic because of the acute angle at the joint.) Prior to the last coat of K36 I did tape the plexi edge and smear a tiny filet of neat epoxy into the joint between the fiberglass and the plexiglass, so no gap would show up in the finished product. There were a few spots along the glass edge not fully filled with squeeze-out from the plexiglass bonding step.



Have you thought about how to finish the glareshield area? I didn't spray it with metallic base and clear; too glossy. Thinking about flat black.

Postscript 6-6-08: Did some reading on LFV (light reflectance values), diffuse and specular reflection, etc....and went with the flat black. Sprayed it this AM, looks fine. We have a very small glareshield, so I'm not gonna worry too much about heating, and I may make a pad for it later when I do the carpet.

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Last edited by DanH : 06-07-2008 at 11:07 AM.
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  #118  
Old 06-19-2008, 05:16 AM
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The latch and lock assembly; better view than the photo on the Showplanes site:



Latch handle. Non-intuitive (forward for release, pull back to latch), so it will need a big 'ole safety label or something. I may put red and green arcs behind the handle.

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  #119  
Old 06-25-2008, 04:32 AM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
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Default Canopy

Dan,
What a beautiful job on the paint, latch, and all of it. I'm trying to catch up with you, but I'm not a very good painter. I may have someone do it for me. I'll heed your advice on making my edge though. My glareshield is a little deeper than yours and I plan on covering it with automotive headliner material - readily available here in Cincinnati. It comes in many different colors/textures and is backed with a thin foam. I'll sew a nice edge where it is near the plexi and wrap it under the lip at the aft end. I did this on my RV-6 with a charcoal gray color and it worked great. I used a glue they use to attach vinyl tops on cars - remember those? It's like a rubbery contact cement. I don't have any of that left, but I will probably just use spray adhesive, or something less permanent. Thanks for the pics.

Scott
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  #120  
Old 06-25-2008, 10:36 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Scott,
<<I'm trying to catch up with you, but I'm not a very good painter.>>

Neither am I. And you'll catch up fast; I'm on light duty. Blew out my back with some dumb move while spraying wheel pants two weeks ago <g>

Something I tried might be of interest to you. The free end of the outside latch handle could touch the painted surface. I machined a lock cylinder to fit down in the SP-supplied imbedded insert, then machined a press-fit aluminum trim ring to go in after it. The surface flange is .020" thick, which holds the handle up off the paint. Easy to do.



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