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How many squeeze rivets on -12?

jfrank71

Well Known Member
Just ordered my -12 kit this week. Placed tool kit order with Cleveland today. Looking over the tool list from Cleveland Tools. To what extent does the -12 kit require squeezing rivets? Is it worth upgrading to a pneumatic squeezer or is the hand squeezer good enough?
 
There are a substantial number, several hundred anyway. Easily done with a hand squeezer provided your hands are in reasonable shape. The Cleveland Mainsqueeze seems to be the top choice, but mine was a Tatco and it worked fine.
 
Just ordered my -12 kit this week. Placed tool kit order with Cleveland today. Looking over the tool list from Cleveland Tools. To what extent does the -12 kit require squeezing rivets? Is it worth upgrading to a pneumatic squeezer or is the hand squeezer good enough?

Unless it is your plan to develope arm strength....I would go for the pneumatic squeezer. There are "way more" than a couple of hundred rivets!!!
 
I bought a tool kit that included the pneumatic riveter, but a number of times I felt really good that I had it. They hold great value, so if you buy one, you can sell it later if you don't want to keep it.
 
Something like 12,500 rivets??? :eek: I used a Cleveland Main Squeeze (pricey but well worth it), a Harbor Freight pneumatic pop-rivet puller (such a pneumatic puller is a necessity unless you want to end up looking like Popeye), and a couple of hand-squeeze pop-rivet pullers. A fancy pneumatic rivet squeezer ($$$) is a nice tool to have in your shop but it is not necessary for an RV-12.
 
I?m using a Cleaveland Main Squeeze and Harbor Freight pneumatic pop rivet puller for most of the rivets on my RV-12 project. I also have an Avery squeezer and a manual pop rivet puller that I use from time to time. I?m sure a pneumatic squeezer is nice, but it?s not essential.
 
Just ordered my -12 kit this week. Placed tool kit order with Cleveland today. Looking over the tool list from Cleveland Tools. To what extent does the -12 kit require squeezing rivets? Is it worth upgrading to a pneumatic squeezer or is the hand squeezer good enough?

Main Squeeze for the solids, Harbor Freight pneumatic for most of the pulled, close-quarters hand puller for where the pneumatic puller won't fit.

Jerre
 
I dont remember how many solid rivets are used on the metal airframe, but it didnt seem like very many. However, there are quite a few on the fiberglass cowling, to rivet on the hinges, and some on the fiberglass parts such as wheel pants and nose gear leg fairing, if you install those. Mostly to install nut plates.
I bet there is a local builder willing to let you borrow a pneumatic squeezer if you feel you need one, but in my opinion you could easily get by with a hand squeezer.
As for the blind rivets, there are about 10,000 of those and you definitely want a pneumatic puller to do them.
Have fun!
 
I found that on the small rivets like the nutplates, I actually prefered to squeeze them by hand rather than use the pneumatic bulky squeezer.
 
I found that on the small rivets like the nutplates, I actually prefered to squeeze them by hand rather than use the pneumatic bulky squeezer.

Yes, you can get an 'Amen.'

I've got a nearly complete RV-7 (fuse forward top skin left to rivet) that probably had a grand total of 3 rivets squeezed with an air squeezer, and I squeezed a *lot* of the rivets. Much easier to control a hand squeezer, especially if you won't be using it enough to get proficient with it.
 
I used a hand squeezer on all the 3/32" rivets, but a rivet gun was welcome on the 1/8" rivets. They are a bear to squeeze!
 
I used a hand squeezer on all the 3/32" rivets, but a rivet gun was welcome on the 1/8" rivets. They are a bear to squeeze!
I used a Cleveland Main Squeeze. I found the 1/8" were as easy as the 3/32". It was easy enough that if I were to do it again, I would stay with the Main Squeeze and not bother with a pneumatic.
 
Thank you for all of your responses. Some good info here. Also wondering if there are rivet locations that are not accessible by the pneumatic squeezer that would require a hand squeezer.
 
The tightest place I can recall using the hand squeezer was the aft bulkhead in the tailcone where some rivets were only just accessible.
 
Thank you for all of your responses. Some good info here. Also wondering if there are rivet locations that are not accessible by the pneumatic squeezer that would require a hand squeezer.

The airplane was specifically designed for all solid rivets to set with a 3" yoke in a hand squeezer.
Phneumatic squeezers generally have the same access ability that the common hand squeezers have.

My guess on the amount of solid rivets that have to be installed is 800 - 1000.
 
If you have a local EAA Chapter see if you can borrow

a pneumatic squeezer, especially if you're near the age (69) I was when I started. I could, with a lot of effort, squeeze 3mm rivets but most of the 4mm were just about impossible. Once you get the pneumatic squeezer set using scrap material, you can squeeze perfect rivets all day long. I may be overestimating a bit (doesn't seem like it) but I tell people there are 15,000 rivets in the airplane, of which 13000 are pop rivets.

Wayne 120241/143WM
 
Keep an eye out on the online auction sites. I got my used pneumatic squeezer for $250 and it works great. Squeezing rivets with it is one of my favorite things to do now.
 
There are a substantial number, several hundred anyway. Easily done with a hand squeezer provided your hands are in reasonable shape. The Cleveland Mainsqueeze seems to be the top choice, but mine was a Tatco and it worked fine.

The world may never know....

tootsie-pop-owl.jpg
 
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