What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Heavy wing/Roll trim/Autopilot

Tony_T

Well Known Member
Patron
I saw Scott's Schmidt's question about autopilot settings (twitchy stick) and decided to post some experience I have had. First, to answer the question of twitchy stick on autopilot; the Installation Manual says that that is an indication that the Roll Servo Sensitivity needs to be decreased. Here is a link to New Blues autopilot settings: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=653797&postcount=7
Note that on a scale of 1 to 25 his roll servo sensitivity setting is 5. Default is 10. Mine is set on 10 with hardy no stick twitching.

But before making changes to the default settings, is the aircraft in roll trim? If the servo has to work hard to maintain roll trim this seems to me would contribute to a twitchy stick condition.

My plane has had a heavy left wing. I partially solved this by the recommended method of pinching the opposite trailing edge. This never completely solved the heavy wing and when the stick was released the aircraft would begin a gently left turn. With iron mike flying the plane, the stick had a moderate amount of jiggle.

Now just recently I removed the flaperon rod end bearings to Loctite them according to the plan sheet 18-06 which was revised to include the Loctite after my flaperons were built. I noticed that one of the rod ends was screwed in a bit further than the others. I may have made a measurement error when originally installing this rod end bearing or it might have been moved when the flaperons were off for painting. Without the Loctite they screw in and out very easily. Putting them back in with the Loctite, I was very careful measuring the 11/32" distance on the plans using the depth gauge end on my dial caliper. When I next flew the plane, I noticed something was noticeably different. The heavy wing was gone. I now believe that the misadjusted rod end bearing was putting a twist in flaperon spar. It would not take much to put the aircraft out of roll trim.

Now in addition, the stick movement when the autopilot was working is noticeably less. It barely jiggles now.

The autopilot alerts you on the EFIS if you are out of trim in pitch, so you can correct that with the trim switch. But in roll you have no roll trim. First, I would correct any wing heaviness. Check the flaperon rod end bearing distances, squeeze/bump trailing edges, whatever it takes. Then if there is a twitchy stick on autopilot, I would first turn off ALT by pushing the ALT button. Then if the stick is twitchy it is the roll servo working. Then I would adjust roll servo sensitivity if necessary.

Tony
 
Bearings

Thanks for the reply Tony.
I have a heavy right wing and just last night was looking at those bearings thinking the same thing. I thought I did my best to get them perfect but I am going to check that the next time I am out there before I start pinching the trailing edge.
I will let you know what I find.

As for centering the ball, I found that one wedge from Avery RTV'ed on the left side of the rudder made it just about perfect at 120 kts TAS. Is this about what you have?
 
Rudder trim

I have one and 1/2 wedges on my rudder to center the ball. Most 12s I have seen (not all that many) take more than one.

Tony
 
Now just recently I removed the flaperon rod end bearings to Loctite them according to the plan sheet 18-06 which was revised to include the Loctite after my flaperons were built. Without the Loctite they screw in and out very easily. Tony

Tony,

Slightly O/T, but what size drill bit did you use prior to tapping the threads? There was another thread here recently where some people were concerned about the loose fit of the rod end bearings when the brackets were drilled as per the plans using an 11/32 bit (I think, haven't got the plans at the moment). Some have re-made the brackets and used a Q bit to get a tighter fit. I drilled as per the plans and mine are also a bit looser than I'd like, but I expect the Loctite will fix that.
 
Robert,
I drilled those rod end brackets as the plans directed, even though I checked the drill size for that tap and knew better. I didn't think I was allowed to second guess the plans. If I were to do another I would use the Q drill.

The Loctite 243 does seem to tighten things up quite nicely.

Tony
 
Robert,
I drilled those rod end brackets as the plans directed, even though I checked the drill size for that tap and knew better. I didn't think I was allowed to second guess the plans. If I were to do another I would use the Q drill.

The Loctite 243 does seem to tighten things up quite nicely.

Tony

Thanks Tony. My thoughts too, but probably not worth re-doing the brackets. Vans haven't changed the instructions as far as I know (see edit), so I assume they are not concerned. Most of the load on the bearing shank is shear rather than tension or compression, so I guess it's considered acceptable. Nobody has reported any flapping flaperons yet, so that's a good sign!
R.

Edit: Was able to check the plans when I got home from work. Instructions say either 11/32" or Q bit.
 
Last edited:
Heavy wing/Autopilot.

Looks like my right flaperon is a little high (1/32-3/32) than the left. It is going to paint on Monday and I will be very accurate when I re-attach it.

Autopilot settings you recommended worked perfect. The bank angle of 35 degrees seemed to work better than the 1.5 deg/sec.
Thanks again. Up to 5 hours now, 5 to go. :)
 
Looks like my right flaperon is a little high (1/32-3/32) than the left. It is going to paint on Monday and I will be very accurate when I re-attach it.

Autopilot settings you recommended worked perfect. The bank angle of 35 degrees seemed to work better than the 1.5 deg/sec.
Thanks again. Up to 5 hours now, 5 to go. :)

? work better, then what, don't use deg/sec....make that a zero .... or how do you determine 'better' between the two different settings? Sorry, I'm new..
 
Back
Top