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  #1  
Old 08-17-2018, 12:16 AM
amerkarim amerkarim is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Houston Tx
Posts: 23
Default Cabin ventilation question

Hi All,

I just started the SB fuselage last night, was been going through the plans, just have a question about the ventilation system please:

I plan to install the aero sport vents for the front panel and the rear seating. Where I am flying it is very hot all year round so I doubt I will ever need the cabin heat. Do I then need to install the scat tubes and vent system? Or can I leave it all out and save some weight? Does the ventilation and ducting system serve any other purpose apart from passenger cabin heat?

Thanks in advance and happy landings

Amer


Kitfox 7 SS Turbo/Intercooler - Built and Flying (Since Aug 2017)

RV-10 SB (Since June 2018)
EMP Done
Wings Done
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  #2  
Old 08-17-2018, 05:27 AM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 1,143
Default Just heat...

The firewall heatvalves and scat tube are there to provide heat. I have read where some folks do not use the front heat...donít see any reason you couldnít eliminate both, except for resale price on the airplane.
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  #3  
Old 08-17-2018, 05:51 AM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
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Location: Atlanta, GA
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Default

If you plan to use the airplane for travel, eventually you're likely to go somewhere (or travel at a time of year) where cabin heat will come in handy.
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  #4  
Old 08-17-2018, 07:54 AM
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rleffler rleffler is offline
 
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Location: Delaware, OH (KDLZ)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle Boatright View Post
If you plan to use the airplane for travel, eventually you're likely to go somewhere (or travel at a time of year) where cabin heat will come in handy.
I agree with Kyle. It will impact resale value and doesn't add any significant weight. It also gets cold at 15k' regardless of where you live.
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  #5  
Old 08-17-2018, 09:14 AM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Location: Landing field "12VA"
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Default That said,

you could consider doing what I'm doing. Install only one (stainless steel) heat selector box, with one heat muff, feeding a Y-connector in the tunnel for front and rear heat, probably with a 3/4" air restrictor on the rear baffle feed to the muff.

None of the above ideas are original with me. Collective wisdom from the VAF.
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  #6  
Old 08-17-2018, 11:18 AM
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rleffler rleffler is offline
 
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Location: Delaware, OH (KDLZ)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
you could consider doing what I'm doing. Install only one (stainless steel) heat selector box, with one heat muff, feeding a Y-connector in the tunnel for front and rear heat, probably with a 3/4" air restrictor on the rear baffle feed to the muff.

None of the above ideas are original with me. Collective wisdom from the VAF.
My experience of flying in the Midwest requires that I have independent control of both the front and rear heaters. In the winter, when its below freezing on the ground, I typically fly with the front heater pulled out about 1/4" and the rear one wide open. It doesn't take much out of the front to start cooking you and the avionics.
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  #7  
Old 08-17-2018, 11:48 AM
MercFE MercFE is offline
 
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Location: Maple Valley, WA
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You're never going to fly at altitude? Cabin heat can come in handy, even in the summer.
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  #8  
Old 08-17-2018, 12:35 PM
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Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
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Location: Landing field "12VA"
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rleffler View Post
My experience of flying in the Midwest requires that I have independent control of both the front and rear heaters. In the winter, when its below freezing on the ground, I typically fly with the front heater pulled out about 1/4" and the rear one wide open. It doesn't take much out of the front to start cooking you and the avionics.
Bob - appreciate your input! I'm at work right now, but believe independent control (which I hadn't considered beforehand) would be easy to implement with sliding shutters (or similar) over the heater outlets. Is that misguided?
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  #9  
Old 08-17-2018, 03:09 PM
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rleffler rleffler is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
Bob - appreciate your input! I'm at work right now, but believe independent control (which I hadn't considered beforehand) would be easy to implement with sliding shutters (or similar) over the heater outlets. Is that misguided?
Possible, but in my opinion not probable.

1. Itís awkward place to reach the front vents. How are you going to control the louvres.

2. You be exposing the tunnel to heat if you block the output ports, whereas the plans doesnít let heat into the tunnel when closed. This is huge, since that heat is sitting right next to you fuel lines which increase the potential for vapor lock.

I personally think itís going to be difficult to come up with a solution that beats the plans without a whole lot of engineering and work.
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  #10  
Old 08-17-2018, 03:55 PM
Canadian_JOY Canadian_JOY is offline
 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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I have no horse in this race, but will provide this little bit of insight. A few weeks ago enroute to Oshkosh we were at only 4500' but the large weather system around Michigan and Wisconsin produced some sudden changes in air temperature. Yup, even in July I found myself reaching for the cabin heat control.

There's no way I'd build an airplane without an effective cabin heat system - being cold is no fun when you're flying, and even less fun when your windows are icing up on the inside!
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