VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

  #1  
Old 01-19-2017, 08:49 AM
Aggie78 Aggie78 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 315
Default Hangar Project

Greetings folks,

I've owned 2 hangars, but never been involved in actually building one. That's all about to change, as I've purchased a lot in an airpark outside of San Marcos, Texas...

So, as I start the info gather for this, I would appreciate any point outs or help on when you've been involved in something like this yourself.

Hangar size TBD, but at least 60x60 up to 80x80.

This hangar will have a small apartment/loft for my wife and I to part-time at...

Some decision points to make...door-bifold or hydraulic? Manufacturer rec?

Building-Steel framing or Wood? I've looked at (and currently live in) a steel framed hangar, but I'm intrigued by a company called "Morton" wood framed buildings. Anyone have any experience?

Lot size is ~1 acre...is it cheaper to build "out" or build "up" (loft) for the office/living space?

Going to get engineering done for slab work, as soils are an issue in the area.

"Nice to have" items on electrical/plumbing/HVAC are appreciated.

Will need septic. Already have water/electric run to lot.

Any other gotcha's or pitfall's to avoid are much appreciated!

Thanks!
__________________
Rob Schroer
RV-7, bought
N75WV
YIO-360-M1B
T67-Hicks Airport, Texas
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-19-2017, 09:11 AM
Vern's Avatar
Vern Vern is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Peachtree City, Ga
Posts: 914
Default Hangar

Since this sounds like a long term use, a few items to consider.

1-Slab: make sure there is plenty of drainage under and around the slab, even if you have to add to fill to elevate it a few inches. Nothing is worse than slipping on a sweating floor.

2-Skylights: Wonderful for free lighting but all will eventually start leaking/ deteriorate with time. Either get really good ones or skip it

3-Mezzanine: Build, or make provision in the steel uprights in the rear for future storage: (possible part of living area?) Best to design in. I wish that 1/3 of my rear wall was clear span mezzanine instead of 1/8. (60 x 72 hangar)

4-Buy the best roof you can afford.A standing seam metal roof would be good Use thicker metal.

If you have a main door on the front, a 10' roll up on the back wall would be handy for a cross breeze and general operations.

5-Plumb in air hose fittings all around the hangar along with power outlets

6-Install wiring for one of those large Big Axx type fans you might eventually want in the center ceiling.

7-Install some tie downs in the front slab in case you need to park a bird outside
__________________
Vern Darley
RV-6A N680V / RV-10QB N353RV
Luscombe 8E
Hatz Biplane
Falcon RV Squadron
KFFC Hanger D-30
Peachtree City, Ga
770 310-7169
EAA Technical Counselor #5142
EAA Flight Advisor #486336
ATP/CFI/A&P/DAR
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-19-2017, 10:38 AM
bsacks05's Avatar
bsacks05 bsacks05 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Warner Robins, GA
Posts: 1,178
Default

I am at the same stage of planning as you. In fact the architect is sending the finished drawings today.
Morton has a nice free brochure worth checking out. I haven't checked their prices but imagine they are more expensive than what I am planning. My plan is 40x50 with 16ft walls, rear loft for storage and office, and a bathroom. I am planning HVAC just to take the edge off the occasional winter chill and adequate cooling in summer. I live in Mid-Georgia and will prob also get a BA fan. Windows are also important to me but will not do skylights. Your slab should extend out from the main door to act as an apron. Mine extends about ten feet.
__________________
Bruce Sacks
RV-9 N659DB - Flying since 7/1/06
Hatz CB-1 - Getting close to covering.
Warner Robins, GA
A&P
APRS KJ4EFS
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-19-2017, 10:53 AM
guccidude1 guccidude1 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Reno NV
Posts: 492
Default Hangar Project

An 80 x 80 or a 60 x 80 has advantages, an 80' wide hangar will allow you to park aircraft with their tail to the wall and leave the center portion open to the door. You will not have to move airplanes to get one out. If you have more than on airplane or plan to rent space this is a necessity to avoid hangar rash. Additionally, it makes the hangar more resalable way down the road. One other thing to consider, electrical receptacles, I have a small 1500 sq ft hangar that I wired with 8 double gang boxes, 34 plug ins. After moving in and placing items everywhere, I can now only access 3 of the double gang boxes. Ceiling fans are great! Dan from Reno
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-19-2017, 10:55 AM
az_gila's Avatar
az_gila az_gila is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 8,863
Exclamation

Lot size is ~1 acre...is it cheaper to build "out" or build "up" (loft) for the office/living space?

That question might be best answered after talking to whoever has to approve your building plans at the govt. level.

Fire codes and separation issues might come into play.
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-19-2017, 10:58 AM
az_gila's Avatar
az_gila az_gila is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 8,863
Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by guccidude1 View Post
.....

One other thing to consider, electrical receptacles, I have a small 1500 sq ft hangar that I wired with 8 double gang boxes, 34 plug ins. After moving in and placing items everywhere, I can now only access 3 of the double gang boxes. Ceiling fans are great! Dan from Reno
Use surface mounted EMT conduit for the hangar area. It will be much easier to add on later if needed. Keep the outlet boxes all above workbench height.
__________________
Gil Alexander
EAA Technical Counselor, Airframe Mechanic
Half completed RV-10 QB purchased
RV-6A N61GX - finally flying
Grumman Tiger N12GA - flying
La Cholla Airpark (57AZ) Tucson AZ
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-19-2017, 01:27 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 2,380
Default

Up is usually more efficient, from an energy standpoint (higher volume to surface area ratio). But up requires vertical access. Not just for 'stuff', but for people. How long will you be using it? Will age become a factor? Anyone in your life with physical limitations now or potential, that will need to access the 2nd level?

I like one-piece doors. They are mechanically much simpler than bifolds. But their one big downside is that you need to know that their sweep area is clear before opening. Most bifolds will miss just about anything that's more than a few feet out from the door.

I'd agree with others about surface mounting utilities (air, power, etc). If you actually use the space (for more than just a/c parking), you'll periodically wish you had an outlet or an air drop where it's not.

Related to using the space, if you intend to have a shop worth of tools, having a smaller enclosed space for the shop can save heat/cool costs and can actually be more efficient in a functional way, since it keeps everything closer to the actual work.

One thing I wish I'd done when I built my shop addition was to pour the slab on several inches of foam insulation, and run plastic tubing for floor heat. We're in a mild climate, and I might never have used it, but now I'll never know because there's no way to correct the omission. Wouldn't have been that expensive to insulate the floor before I poured concrete.

If you don't have natural gas on the property, multi-zone 'minisplit' heat pumps are worth a look. The new ones claim to work well below freezing (without using resistance heat), and the compressor adjusts its output to match demand.

Charlie
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-19-2017, 02:00 PM
Aggie78 Aggie78 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 315
Default Some great suggestions!

Thanks much for the contributions!

My wife and I are in our very early 60's and very fit. Still...living in a hangar where we are at now and dealing with the up/down of stairs all day does get old, so there's real appeal towards making this all on a single level except for a mezzanine in the hangar for storage.

What are the thoughts of running pneumatic lines in the slab, stubbed out at points around the hangar? PVC? Black pipe? Or something else? Or, just run it above the slab on the walls?

Natural gas isn't an option, so it's electric or propane. I'm interested in the mini-splits, as I've heard they are very efficient. Propane would be extra costs due to tank, plumbing black pipe, etc. Not enough ROI on what will be a part-time abode...

I have a call in to Morton and the salesman is going to call me back...but I'm wondering if framing it in wood vs steel what price differential there'd be.

Re-sale is also a future consideration, and I appreciate the info about an 80x80 giving more "elbow" room. I rented out space in a 60x60 as a biz and with 4 airplanes in there, it was always "move 1...sometimes 2" to get at the one in the back. High hassle factor, for sure.

Bsacks05, why did you decide to use an architect? Lack of availability of finding floorplans elsewhere? (which is what I'm finding)

Thanks again, fellas.
__________________
Rob Schroer
RV-7, bought
N75WV
YIO-360-M1B
T67-Hicks Airport, Texas
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-19-2017, 02:47 PM
titanhank's Avatar
titanhank titanhank is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Friendswood, Tx
Posts: 160
Default

I am building a 50x40 in texas as we speak. Here is the breakdown on cost:

Insulated Building kit 50x40x16 with framed 40' opening from whirlwind steel buildings. $22000
50x80 slab for building and ramp with building erection and install 40' schweiss door. $34000
Schweiss 40x14 door with lift straps and strap locks. $9500
Permits $50
Survey $500
Meter base install $1700
Internal wiring completion. $10000
Property cost $7000
Expoxy floor coating. $1500

Total to move in $86250
Cost per sq/ft excluding land $39.62

Nice hangars are NOT cheap!!!
__________________
Rv-6
0-320
160hp
Catto 3-blade gen 3
Smoke system
1044 lbs
71.63" cg
Panel update in progress
Dynon d180
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-19-2017, 04:59 PM
h&jeuropa h&jeuropa is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
Posts: 185
Default

We had Morton build our business building back in 1997. They were very easy to deal with and did a great job. They did the entire project as a turnkey - from excavation, slab, the building, electrical, heating, cooling etc. We were very happy with the result and would certainly use them again.

Jim Butcher
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:57 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.