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Half Raven Inverted Oil Separator

ronschreck

Well Known Member
I recently installed a "Half-Raven" oil system on Miss Izzy.

Basically, the Half-Raven system is just the oil separator part of the Raven inverted oil system. It does not include the inverted oil check valve. It is the oil check valve that directs oil from the top of the sump to the oil pump during sustained inverted flight. The oil separator redirects the oil vent from the top of the engine to the sump during inverted flight and collects some oil in the tank for return to the sump after returning to level flight. Here's a link to pictures:

http://www.ravenaircraft.com/Parts.html

Sustained inverted flight is expensive! You would need to have a full inverted oil system, inverted fuel pickup, fuel injection and a counterweighted constant speed propeller (if not fixed pitch). For the momentary negative or zero "G" maneuvering that we typically perform in the RV all of the above is not required. A second or two of oil pressure loss is not detrimental to the engine. The standard fuel pickup is sufficient, as there is adequate fuel in the lines to sustain engine operation for several seconds. While fuel injection is nice, a carbureted engine may sag or quit during some maneuvers but will quickly return to full power when positive "G" is applied. A standard CS propeller will rarely lose enough oil pressure to drive the blades to fine pitch and if this does occur it is easily recognized in time to reduce power to avoid an overspeed.

I light of all of the above, all I wanted was something to keep massive amounts of oil from flying out my vent and onto the belly of the airplane. A few weeks ago five of our Team RV pilots spent two days practicing and performing aerobatic routines to secure our aerobatic competency cards. (We are intent on interjecting some aerobatics into the Team RV airshow routine.) One of our pilots told me he lost over four quarts of oil during one training session! I flew virtually the same maneuvers as he did and didn?t lose a measurable amount of oil and the belly was clean.

Here is what I bought for the Half-Raven system:

Raven Oil Separator Tank with mount and clamps. Sump fitting. (Direct from Raven Aircraft): $326.71

AN842-12 Brass Hose Elbow (2) (Aircraft Spruce): $15.50 each.

AN816-10D Straight Fitting (Aircraft Spruce): $3.10

6000-12 Oil Hose, 3 feet (Aircraft Spruce): $6.75/foot.

#10, 36-inch braided hose with straight end fittings. (Local race shop): $68.43

The installation took about five hours. You need to mount the separator tank high on the firewall so the bottom of the tank is at least two inches above the top of the sump. It should be at least ten inches to one side of the engine centerline, opposite the side you mount the sump fitting. The sump fitting goes into one of the bosses on the bottom of the sump. (Same place you drain oil.) There are three ports on the tank. The top #12 hose comes from the normal oil vent. The middle #12 hose goes out the bottom of the cowling. The bottom #10 hose goes to the sump fitting. Clamp all the hoses down. Refill the oil sump and go fly!

Now, some of you will question my assertion that a few seconds without oil pressure isn't harmful to the engine. I have no documentation or test results to confirm this and my statement is only supported by statements from several pilots with considerable aerobatic experience. Having said that, my next job will be to install a small oil accumulator to supply several seconds of oil pressure when required. I am going this route rather than installing the Raven oil check valve because my aerobatic routine does not involve extended negative "G" flight. I will only have momentary periods of negative or zero "G" exposure. The Raven oil check valve is basically a ball check valve that re-directs oil flow when in inverted flight. It cannot maintain pressure in zero "G" flight because the ball check valve is unseated. Here's where an oil accumulator will supply pressure.

I have ordered an Accusump one quart accumulator.
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tpc=1_Quart_Accusump&form_prod_id=102,1066_3391&action=product
Once I get it installed I'll let you know how it works out.
 
I flew virtually the same maneuvers as he did and didn?t lose a measurable amount of oil and the belly was clean.
Hard to argue with results like that!

Wondering how your half-Raven setup is different from other oil separators like Airwolf, Andair, RMJ, etc. Looks to me like basically the same deal, but maybe I'm missing something. Would you expect any of these to work as well?

--Paul
 
Hard to argue with results like that!

Wondering how your half-Raven setup is different from other oil separators like Airwolf, Andair, RMJ, etc. Looks to me like basically the same deal, but maybe I'm missing something. Would you expect any of these to work as well?

--Paul

Paul,

I don't know how the others work. The Raven uses a ball valve to select either the top vent when upright, or the sump vent when inverted and then it returns any collected oil to the sump during normal flight. This is 1/2 of the full Raven inverted system, designed to vent the engine when upright and inverted. Most oil separators are only designed to collect oil from the upper (normal) vent. I don't remember seeing any that even have a sump connection. What they do with that collected oil is the issue. Do you have to empty the tank once in a while or is it somehow returned to the engine. Biggest question I have is: "why are they so expensive and why do so many people have trouble with them?"
 
Pictures of Raven/Accusump Installation

Any pics of the installation?

OK, it took more than a few weeks to get some pictures. It's really hard to take the cowling off when you're having so much fun flying! :D

Here's the Raven oil separator on the left. The top 3/4-inch rubber hose comes from the engine vent. The middle 3/4-inch rubber hose goes overboard. The bottom #10 braided hose goes to the sump. The oil accumulator (Canton Accusump ) is on the right (blue cannister). It is about 12-inches long and 3 1/4 inch diameter, without the meter and fittings. Here it is precharged to 10 psi. When the engine is running it will fill with one quart of oil and read normal oil pressure. Any loss of pressure will cause the accumulator to discharge it's contents and maintain oil pressure for a short time. Great for the occasional zero or negative "G" excursion.

DSCN9539.JPG


This is the Raven fitting for the bottom of the sump. It has a standpipe that goes to the top of the sump. This is where vented oil is returned to the sump after returning to normal flight.


DSCN9542.JPG


This is the "T" fitting that I used to connect the accumulator to the oil system. It has a 3/8 NPT and two #8 AN flare fittings. You can plumb this into the oil port on the accessory case of the engine or onto one of the ports on your oil cooler, whichever is more convenient.

DSCN9546.JPG


You may ask "why didn't I just install the Raven inverted oil check valve". Answer: I don't do sustained inverted flight. I may pull a few seconds of negative "G" during immelmans, cuban 8's, hammerheads, slow rolls, etc. The oil accumulator provides oil pressure during these brief periods. Plus, the oil accumulator will provide pressure during zero "G" flight where the Raven oil check valve will not. The Raven valve relies on a heavy ball bearing to change the oil pickup port during inverted flight. At zero "G" the ball bearing doesn't seat firmly in either port so the oil pump may cavitate in this instance.
 
Wise move to avoid the check valve...I know of a few engines that have been trashed by said devices.

The P-51 has a dry sump oil system. In the oil tank there is a J-shaped casting that swivels on a bronze bushing so that when inverted, the weight of the oil pickup keeps it in the oil. Lycoming has produced dry sump engines that use a similar mechanism for sustained inverted flight.
 
Inverted Oil Pressure

I have had some experience with my "Half Raven" oil separator and the Accusump oil accumulator (described in above posts) now and can report that I consistenly get a full seven seconds of oil pressure when inverted before it drops to 25 psi. That's plenty of time to do any of the IAC aerobatic routine maneuvers with a comfortable safety margin. :D
 
This "half" option is great for anyone wanting to fly IAC Primary or Sportsman in their RV. Both of those categories have only a few maneuvers with very brief zero or negative G exposure.
 
We've had an identical system to Ron for nearly 2 years... i.e. the (small) Raven Tank + sump return, no Accumulator.

As he says, markedly reduces Oil loss to belly, but can still be defeated ;)

Andy
RV-8 G-HILZ
 
Ron, on your Accusump, did you install the electric switch activated valve so you can close it off before engine shut down and store the oil for pre-oiling on the next start up?
 
Ron, on your Accusump, did you install the electric switch activated valve so you can close it off before engine shut down and store the oil for pre-oiling on the next start up?

No. I fly enough that I don't worry about having a dry cam or bearings at start-up.
 
Pictures of Raven/Accusump Installation

Ron,
Any pictures or details on how the accumulator is plumbed into the engine?

I have the Raven system minus the check valve installed. I have not decided if I should ditch the check valve in favor of the accumulator or try running them together. I believe you stated at one time that Danny King was running both.

Danny --- any comments?

Thanks,
David
 
Thanks Smokey

For this thread.

I added the half-Raven during the annual inspection. The folks at Raven sent everything I needed except some #6000 hose. I haven't added the accumulator yet, but still feeling good just knowing my tail will not be dripping oil all year.

Don
 
For this thread.

I added the half-Raven during the annual inspection. The folks at Raven sent everything I needed except some #6000 hose. I haven't added the accumulator yet, but still feeling good just knowing my tail will not be dripping oil all year.

Don

Now if we can just find a way to keep the smoke oil off the belly... :rolleyes:

Happy Hammerheading,
 
I am thinking of installing the same in my RV-8 ( I am also only looking for short periods of inverted flight and I am just tired of cleaning my hanger floor after every flight ... ) so I figured I ask if you are still happy with it after using it for a couple of years.

Thx

Oliver
 
I am thinking of installing the same in my RV-8 ( I am also only looking for short periods of inverted flight and I am just tired of cleaning my hanger floor after every flight ... ) so I figured I ask if you are still happy with it after using it for a couple of years.

Thx

Oliver

Oliver,

I have since upgraded to a full inverted system for sustained inverted flight but for your purposes the half Raven will work great. Go for it.
 
My Half Raven

Thanks to the excellent advice I got here, I chose and just finished installing a Raven Inverted Oil System - just the air/oil separator system. This is commonly referred to as the Half Raven since I didn't install the pressure side inverted oil valve components. My objective was to eliminate the excessive loss of oil and messy airplane I was seeing after my aerobatic flights. I have a carbureted 360 so sustained inverted isn't a requirement. I just wanted to eliminate the mess and the oil loss.

I can happily report great success. I flew the first flight today and, after putting the -4 through some very extensive zero and negative g maneuvers, I returned to find very little oil on the belly and no measureable oil loss. Before the installation of this system, I was seeing a quart to a half-quart loss on some of my more aggressive flying days and the belly would be a complete mess.

This experience also highlighted to me the value of the experimental aviation world. I learned a lot. I had to learn about and select all the right mounts, hoses and fittings, sealants, and tools. I built my first ever hoses. I think it took me three different shipments from Spruce and two from Summit Racing, but once I had all the right stuff, it was pretty simple. I enjoyed it immensely and the results provided a lot of personal satisfaction. I want to give a big thank you to the folks the produced the EAA videos on hose fabrication. They helped me immensely!

Also, a big thumbs up for the Raven products. Quality stuff that just works!
Randy

IMG_0022_zpsfxetazhg.jpg


IMG_0025_zps5y0g9qwx.jpg


IMG_0026_zpszkcynnt5.jpg


IMG_0023_zpseencrjuh.jpg
 
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Anybody know about this stand pipe construction?

Thanks to the excellent advice I got here, I chose and just finished installing a Raven Inverted Oil System - just the air/oil separator system. This is commonly referred to as the Half Raven since I didn't install the pressure side inverted oil valve components. My objective was to eliminate the excessive loss of oil and messy airplane I was seeing after my aerobatic flights. I have a carbureted 360 so sustained inverted isn't a requirement. I just wanted to eliminate the mess and the oil loss.


Randy

IMG_0026_zpszkcynnt5.jpg

Well, I always wanted to do some aerobatics and figured I would not need inverted, but stopped to think about mistakes and the possible negative G , oil pressure, and prop speed control loss. Sooooo has Raven it is. I got the one quart accusump accumulator, and will order the Raven catch tank soon. One thing, the sump return on my IO360 with forward facing servo has no room for the picture above. The 90 deg will hit the intake tubes unless dropped down.

The sump returns seem pricey, so has anyone made their own? Is that stand pipe pressed in, epoxied, pinned, swaged, galled, or welded in place? Anybody Know?

90%2Bdeg%2Bsump%2Breturn%2B-%2Braven.png
90%2BDeg%2BSump%2BReturn%2BChristen.png
 
Sump Return Fitting

Hi Bill,
If you buy the 1/2 Raven system, it comes with the sump fitting. I think you could probably make one on your own but it's not obvious to me how the pipe is attached to the fitting.
 
I am going to call Monday, but was curious about the fitting - the tank is $295 and tank with sump fitting is $387. Seems a little expensive for $4 of tube in a $11 fitting. Maybe there is more in the kit. I will call.

Meanwhile, I have been calculating. The fitting is 7075T73 and if a 2024T6 tube is pressed in with a 3.2 thousands diametral interference, then it would have 9ksi surface pressure. I know - it would never be coming out. The tube might have to be internally sized to make it larger as only 5/8" nominal diameter is offered. A dry ice/alcohol and heat the fitting to 200F would yield .004" a drop in fit that yields the tube when temperature normalizes. Max pre stress. Probably not worth the trouble, though. Price quote will tell.
 
Love the Math

Sounds to me like you have the skills and knowledge to roll your own Bill!
 
Raven

I used the half Raven system on my 8 . I did not like the aluminum fitting supplied with the kit . I fabricated my own with a steel fitting and some 4130 tube . The system works well and might add the rest of the components for full inverted sometime soon .
 
More Info

G-Zero, would you be so kind as to provide us some more information on how you fabricated your fitting?
 
Raven

If you look at the fitting supplied by Raven it has been bored out then an aluminum tube epoxied in place . What I did not like was after they bored the fitting it left only a minimal amount of metal in the valley of the threads .
I purchased a steel An8x1/2" 90 and found a tube in my scrap bin ( maybe 3/8" .035 wall 4130 ) . Sanded the tube to get a good press fit then put a few tig tacks for good measure . The diameter of the tube is not that critical as the tank gravity drains back to the sump thru it when you are upright , it's not part of the engine oil flow (pressure or suction )
 
I used the half Raven system on my 8 . I did not like the aluminum fitting supplied with the kit . I fabricated my own with a steel fitting and some 4130 tube . The system works well and might add the rest of the components for full inverted sometime soon .

Good to see you are back on line. :cool:
 
Light system

Hello,

Did somebody use only the half Raven with success ?
I would like a light system without accumulator if possible..

Thank you
Sylvain
 
If you look at the fitting supplied by Raven it has been bored out then an aluminum tube epoxied in place . What I did not like was after they bored the fitting it left only a minimal amount of metal in the valley of the threads .
I purchased a steel An8x1/2" 90 and found a tube in my scrap bin ( maybe 3/8" .035 wall 4130 ) . Sanded the tube to get a good press fit then put a few tig tacks for good measure . The diameter of the tube is not that critical as the tank gravity drains back to the sump thru it when you are upright , it's not part of the engine oil flow (pressure or suction )

Thanks, I did this too. A 1/2" od steel tube, sanded a little, reamed part of the steel fitting then pressed in the tube on the hydraulic press. As I look at the sump, the tube can not come out if it is less than 1" clearance to the top of the sump. So, no TIG for this one. A lot easier to make than I thought.

I think the Raven part has a 5/8 OD tube. I decided not to do that as it is not being used for oil supply flow.

Regarding the half Raven only, Paul Dye (iron flight) is a long time user. It has much higher capacity for oil capture than a regular oil separator. One possible drawback is the large volume might cool off the air and condense moisture in cold weather. If using a dehydrator, then it should not be any risk there. Less than a regular engine that gets short flights with no dehydrator.
 
Did somebody use only the half Raven with success ?

Yep, I installed a Half Raven on my Rocket. Made a significant difference. I previously was using an Andair oil separator, but still got oil on the belly with minor zero or negative g excursions. Now the belly stays clean! Highly recommended!
 
Oil pressure

Thank you mark.

And what about your oil pressure ? Did you experimente low oil pressure when you are at zero or negative G ? Is it dangerous for the engine ?
 
I have not seen any significant low pressure, however I don't stay negative for more than a second or so. The biggest danger in my mind is the potential for the prop to lose oil pressure and the engine rpm to exceed limits, so must be careful!
 
No massiv oil pressure drop on negative

Hello

I will convert to a half Raven system soon ... because I lost to much oil out of the engine and onto the belly. Also the rear fuselage inside got covered :eek:

What I can say, during two wrong flown hammerheads and two flown correctly, I lost about 2 quarts of oil. Quite a bit shocked after landing and seeing the mess :(

Then I analysed the data about the oil pressure during this flight. I have from the engine monitor all second a measurement. The lowest oil pressure was 32 PSI , so I think it does not harmed the engine for the 1-3s where it was that low.

But to stay more save and unwilling to clean such a mess again, I will go with a half Raven system.

Dominik
 
Hello

I will convert to a half Raven system soon ... because I lost to much oil out of the engine and onto the belly. Also the rear fuselage inside got covered :eek:

What I can say, during two wrong flown hammerheads and two flown correctly, I lost about 2 quarts of oil. Quite a bit shocked after landing and seeing the mess :(

Then I analysed the data about the oil pressure during this flight. I have from the engine monitor all second a measurement. The lowest oil pressure was 32 PSI , so I think it does not harmed the engine for the 1-3s where it was that low.

But to stay more save and unwilling to clean such a mess again, I will go with a half Raven system.

Dominik

What engine and RV model do you have?
 
I will be looking at a half Raven system, too. Great thread! As an aside, there is one other option to fuel injection for sustained inverted flight. My Ellison Throttle Body Is a simple, low pressure system that runs happily in any flight attitude. Now I just need to resolve the oil mess issue.
 
Brass vs aluminum fittings

Is there a reason to use brass fittings on the seperator rather than aluminum?
 
One thing to note.

Is there a reason to use brass fittings on the seperator rather than aluminum?

Mostly available in any material, I used the least expensive. One thing - the top of the Raven tank connects to the top of the accessory case. If you are not planning on going full inverted, and attach to the typical breather port, then pay attention. The Raven top outlet is 1/2 NPT, the accessory case is 3/8" NPT (IO360 M1B). 3/8"NPT to hose is for 5/8" id hose. The 1/2"NPT is for 3/4" id hose. I could NOT find any fittings with a common hose ID, and used a bushing in the top of the tank to allow a 90 deg 3/8"NPT X 5/8" hose fitting.

If you want to go back to the accessory pad using the Raven or Christen adapter, then it is 1/2" NPT and you can use the 3/4" id hose. More $ unless you already have the pad adapter.

I sourced some fittings from Hoerr Racing. They have lower prices than Summit.
https://www.hrpworld.com/store/

I think I have some unused 90 deg fittings if you are interested, email me.

edit - total truth is i did find one straight brass fitting for $45 that is used for coolant on street rods. It is only in straight. It was 3/8"NPT X 3/4" hose id - I needed a 45 deg as 90 would not fit and straight was not suitable for hose routing on my 7. The fittings are made for the heater hose from the intake manifold.
 
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Thanks Bill

Mostly available in any material, I used the least expensive. One thing - the top of the Raven tank connects to the top of the accessory case. If you are not planning on going full inverted, and attach to the typical breather port, then pay attention. The Raven top outlet is 1/2 NPT, the accessory case is 3/8 NPT. 3/8"NPT to hose is for 5/8" id hose. The 1/2"NPT is for 3/4" id hose. I could NOT find any fittings with a common hose ID, and used a bushing in the top of the tank to allow a 90 deg 3/8"NPT X 5/8" hose fitting.

If you want to go back to the accessory pad using the Raven or Christen adapter, then it is 1/2" NPT and you can use the 3/4" id hose. More $ unless you already have the pad adapter.

I sourced some fittings from Hoerr Racing. They have lower prices than Summit.
https://www.hrpworld.com/store/

I think I have some unused 90 deg fittings if you are interested, email me.

edit - total truth is i did find one straight brass fitting for $45 that is used for coolant on street rods. It is only in straight. It was 3/8"NPT X 3/4" hose id - I needed a 45 deg as 90 would not fit and straight was not suitable for hose routing on my 7. The fittings are made for the heater hose from the intake manifold.

Bill,
Thanks for taking the time to respond. I had already purchased aluminum fittings before I noticed several people using brass, thus my question. I checked the breather tube on my IO-390, it is setup for a 3/4ID hose. Lycoming must use different fittings on different models. Thanks again.
Marvin
 
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