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  #11  
Old 11-15-2019, 09:54 PM
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agirard7a agirard7a is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Newport, RI
Posts: 669
Default 1/4” gap

I think I had almost a 1/4” gap between the forward skin and the glare shield skin
On the pilot side. You have to shim up the rib or cut off the flanges and make new ones. I matched the curve with a custom front skin and used flox and epoxy to shim the rib. The rib is not the right size and should be dealt with at Vans with a new rib form block but has never happened. I had Van’s send me a custom cut skin. I matched the holes with the old skin and left the sides long so the radius can be bigger on the custom forward skin. The end result is they mesh up with an equal radius and came out well. I personally saw no other way than to have a new skin made.
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  #12  
Old 11-17-2019, 11:12 AM
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Draker Draker is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Livermore, CA
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To those who have added shims between the skin and tube here: How did you get a CS4-4 to grip all the way through the shims to the tube? It's looking like about a 3/8" deep shim will be needed here. Substitute with a longer pull rivet?
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Ryan Drake
Livermore, CA
https://stiletto.smugmug.com/RV7
Donated 1/2/2019
RV-7A: Empennage and wing kits complete minus fiberglass, fuselage in progress!
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  #13  
Old 11-17-2019, 12:40 PM
birddog486 birddog486 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: WI
Posts: 83
Default

my process was to scuff and clean the tube really well, put packing tape on the bottom of the skin. Tape from the skin pulled tight down the back side of the tube frame. Then fill the void between the skin and tube with epoxy and flox about the same thickness as the tube 1/2" ish.

Once it cured drill the holes in the epoxy and the CS rivets will hold in that.
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  #14  
Old 11-27-2019, 12:52 PM
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Draker Draker is offline
 
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Location: Livermore, CA
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Saw a cool solution for the skin-to-tube fit in Bruce's build log here: https://www.overthehills.com/RV-9A-P...nopy/i-ZznWkG6

I think I'll give something like that a try. Looks like it relies on a "friction fit" against some aluminum epoxy for the pull rivets.
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Ryan Drake
Livermore, CA
https://stiletto.smugmug.com/RV7
Donated 1/2/2019
RV-7A: Empennage and wing kits complete minus fiberglass, fuselage in progress!
N12VD reserved!
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  #15  
Old 11-27-2019, 02:02 PM
nilberg nilberg is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 217
Default

I took a slightly different approach and filled the void with flox (the coloring it's just me testing and not needed).


That will give it structural support as well.

Smoothed it out with balloons:



Finished:



I did use spacers on the voids on the sides, glued small spacers of aluminum:

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Last edited by nilberg : 11-27-2019 at 02:04 PM.
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  #16  
Old 11-27-2019, 02:03 PM
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bruceh bruceh is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ramona, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Draker View Post
Saw a cool solution for the skin-to-tube fit in Bruce's build log here: https://www.overthehills.com/RV-9A-P...nopy/i-ZznWkG6

I think I'll give something like that a try. Looks like it relies on a "friction fit" against some aluminum epoxy for the pull rivets.
Yes, it seems to have worked just fine and is still in place after 750 hours of flying. One of them came loose at one point, but I just used some more epoxy and glued it back in place.
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RV-9A N5771H flown over 700 hours!
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  #17  
Old 11-27-2019, 08:15 PM
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Draker Draker is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceh View Post
Yes, it seems to have worked just fine and is still in place after 750 hours of flying. One of them came loose at one point, but I just used some more epoxy and glued it back in place.
How did you figure out the right final shape for the skin without the plexiglass fit yet?
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Livermore, CA
https://stiletto.smugmug.com/RV7
Donated 1/2/2019
RV-7A: Empennage and wing kits complete minus fiberglass, fuselage in progress!
N12VD reserved!
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  #18  
Old 11-28-2019, 12:31 AM
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bruceh bruceh is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Draker View Post
How did you figure out the right final shape for the skin without the plexiglass fit yet?
Build the frame, then fit the plexiglass to the frame.
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RV-9A N5771H flown over 700 hours!
http://www.overthehills.com/RV-9A-Project
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2019 VAF donator
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  #19  
Old 11-28-2019, 12:27 PM
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dave4754 dave4754 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Edson, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 475
Default The Crack

i share your pain on the crack. I was doing my screws on the canopy, everything went well until awkwardly using a electric screwdriver the screw homed in a little too hard and CRACK! The sound is with me today, but i stop drilled and it isnt all that bad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dwranda View Post
Welcome to the world of the 7 and 9 canopy. The skin fits like **** to the frame. If you look at some build sites you'll see guys have to use spacers between the skin and frame in that gap area. I used washers. I then filled in that gap with epoxy so it looks a little better. I cracked the frame trying to get it to fit to my fuse sides better and had to have it welded. Be careful bending it where the holes are drilled and countersunk. I think I countersunk mine a little too much which probably helped it to crack.
In the spot that you are I had my canopy aligned beautifully to the front skin and was very happy. Then something happened and when the skin and frame were riveted it was way off. Now I am working on the fiberglass fairing and will have to do some fiberglass work to get the skins to match up halfway decent.
The canopy is the worst fitting part of the build and you just have to do the best you can and deal with what you end up with. I gave up trying to make it fit perfectly and hopefully will be happy with the final outcome.
The next thing that happened to me was my canopy cracked. I stop drilled and filled the crack and now hoping it doesn't get worse. Can't fathom starting over building a whole new one. You could say I really hate the canopy portion of the build!!!!
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  #20  
Old 12-01-2019, 10:17 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Draker View Post

To those who have added shims between the skin and tube here: How did you get a CS4-4 to grip all the way through the shims to the tube? It's looking like about a 3/8" deep shim will be needed here. Substitute with a longer pull rivet?
My spacers look like Bruces, but are solid aluminum. I epoxied them to the tube, match drilled and then measured the depth. I used various lengths of pull rivets matched to engage the tube where possible. I made a dimple tool for the few rivets where the skin is in contact with the tube, otherwise there are issues with the thin wall.
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RV-7
1st Flight 1-27-18
Phase II 8-3-18
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Shrunken Exit = ??
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Last edited by BillL : 12-01-2019 at 10:24 AM.
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