What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Best way to jack up RV-4

dan carley

Well Known Member
i want to change the wheel pants, and am looking for the best way to just up the plane. any ideas

dan carley
 
Lifting an RV-4

If you're referring to lifting the airplane in your own hangar, and not out in the field, what has worked for me for many years is a Harbor Freight lifting table. This is the lifting table with a 500 lb. capacity that sells for a little over $100. I drive the 4-wheel table under the wing, several feet out from your wheel. I have a piece of 3 inch square insulating-type foam that lays on the table, right under the spar. With a few pumps with your foot operated pedal the wheel is off the ground. Do your work, then squeeze the release handle to lower it and your done.

The lifting table has some many uses around your garage or hangar that you will be very happy you have it. If you want to work on the tail wheel, drive the table under the aft fuselage under a bulkhead, and lift it to work on the tail wheel, or whatever. You'll never regret the investment in the table.
 
Although they're currently out of stock, I've used this on both the RV-4 and my RV-6.

http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=561-1
181.jpg
 
Jack

Although they're currently out of stock, I've used this on both the RV-4 and my RV-6.

http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=561-1
181.jpg

I don't like this setup. There is a portable version of this that works on a threaded rod and nut arrangement, no bottle jack.
For non portable a heavy wall tube that fits inside the axle and a scissors jack is also excellent.
my objection to the bottle jack is that its much less stable than the scissors jack.
 
This solution came from the forum.. I use one of these lift carts placed under the spar and use a folded towel between the cart and wing (typical placement is near the tie down points.) The cart has come in handy for other uses on rare occasion.

143646_700x700.jpg
 
Last edited:
Jacking up

When I did the gear legs and wheel pants on my RV-3, I used some borrowed pipe stands from a plumber friend of mine. They are made to support lots of weight, and are sturdy, stable and simple. It's a tripod stand with a cradle and screw shaft. You simply wind up the "tee" handle and it raises up. I placed a 2x4 in the cradle (notched so it would not shift) and I used spray glue to fix some rubber sheet on the wood. I placed the jacks and the wood right on the spar about the tie off points.
This was great to get the gear un-weighted which is required to line up the wheels and finally the wheel pants, as they have to be aligned like they will be in flight.... Un-weighted.
Look up "Rigid" pipe stands, Rigid is a manufacturer of primarily plumbing tools and such. Not expensive if you had to buy them. Also good if you have to jack up the tail to do weight and balance measurements and determine datum for CG calculations. I have used them many times so far. Can send pictures if you PM me.
Good luck
Dave
 
Jack stands

Forgot to mention, I had to cut them down to fit under the wings, but it works great, 1 guy can do it safely by himself. If I can figure out how to put a picture up here I will.
Dave
 
I talked to Van's and they told me to use the tie down points on the wing. Just screw a bolt into that spot and leave some of the head sticking out, then use some standard aircraft jacks. Be sure to put plenty of weight on the tail or the airplane will nose over and crash. I do like that hydraulic table idea.
 
Last edited:
jack

i took van's advise, 3/8 bolt in jack point jacket it up and worked fine. doing one side at a time,don't forget to chock wheel

dan carley
 
... a pair of Jacks

FWIW, I welded up a pair of jacks from square "stop-sign tubing" and other scraps. A 1.75 square telescopes within a 2" square to give 15 inches of vertical pre-adjustment by moving the pin that locks the telescoping section. Bought a 3 foot length of 1x4 pitch acme screw from Surplus Center. Cutting the acme in half gives two 18 inch pieces. A 1.5" square welded to the bottom of the acme rod prevents it from rotating within the inner square tubing. A small socket threads into the tie down anchor block on the wing spar, shown partially threaded in one of the photos. A removable handle (truck shock absorber shaft) turns the acme nut. The acme nut rotates, not the acme screw, so that the socket threads won't tighten/loosen while jacking.

This configuration will lift from 20" to 49". Plenty stout and stable for RV use.



 
Back
Top