What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Panel decisions - Name those parts!

SmittysRV

Well Known Member
Hi all,

I came across this panel that's in the "new" PiperSport LSA. I really like the layout, but can't make out some of the components. I plan to mimick it in my RV-9A. Some of the parts are very obvious, even to me. Can some of yous guys tell what the various components are? I have numbered them. Opinions and suggestions are welcome!

Thanks!!!
piperpanel.jpg
 
Hey Smitty. Here's my guesses.

One SkyView will replace most of what is there.

1 - ACS ignition switch
2 - Flight timer
3 - Dynon D180
4 - Aileron Trim
5 - Elevator Trim
6 - Airspeed
7 - Altimeter
8 - 496
9 - SL30
10 - GTX327
11- PS intercom
12 - Flap Switch
13 - Flap position indicator
14 - AC outlet
15 - Tachometer? Looks like it says "Propeller" on it.
16 ?? Panel dimmer?
17 - hobbs
18 - tach?
19- oil temp
20 - egt/cht
21- water temp
22- maniforld press
23 - fuel
24 - fuel
25 ??
26 volts/amps
27 - Same as 16
 
panel items

Which ones are not obvious? Not sure why you would want to copy something that you don't understand. Maybe I misunderstood you. I suggest that you define your aircraft's "mission", then study to determine which instruments are required to fulfill that mission. Then add whatever else is on your "wishlist" as budget allows. Even if the budget doesn't allow it right now, add in the most highly desired items and leave the appropriate space/location for them to be added in the future. Lastly, lay it all out so that it makes sense to the pilot and looks the neatest. The end result is "your" panel.

Have fun. :)

Bevan
My opinions, others may disagree.
 
Now that I'm finally working on the plumbing and interior schtuff, my mind is starting to wander toward those thoughts of what I want to put in the panel. I guess this is my first attempt into getting ideas toward that eventual goal. In other words, I'm not sure what I want yet...
 
My suggestion would be to look at other RV panels, not what Piper puts in their LSA... after you defined what you are gonna do with your plane (eg. that SL-30 may be an expensive overkill for a day VFR plane)
 
More info and one correction

A little more info added

Hey Smitty. Here's my guesses.

One SkyView will replace most of what is there.

1 - ACS ignition switch
2 - Flight timer -->>>>TRUTRAC DIGIFLIGHT II AUTOPILOT
3 - Dynon D180
4 - Aileron Trim -- Ray Allen?
5 - Elevator Trim -- Ray Allen?
6 - Airspeed -- UMA 2.25
7 - Altimeter -- UMA 2.25 I think
8 - 496
9 - SL30
10 - GTX327
11- PS intercom
12 - Flap Switch
13 - Flap position indicator - Ray Allen again?
14 - AC outlet
15 - Tachometer? Looks like it says "Propeller" on it.
16 ?? Panel dimmer?
17 - hobbs
18 - tach?
19- oil temp
20 - egt/cht
21- water temp
22- maniforld press
23 - fuel
24 - fuel
25 ??
26 volts/amps
27 - Same as 16
 
Since the Piper LSA has a Rotax engine, that may be a prop rpm indicator not a controller. There does appear to be a seperate engine rpm indicator included with the engine gauges.

Jim
RV4 sold
PA18 replica 90% done 90% to go
 
Smitty - you need to just go with a EFIS, the SkyView will do most of what you need. Also, the installation is simple.
 
my 9A panel

Hi Smitty -I agree with the other posters - EFIS is the way to go. I'm going with a single AFS unit as shown (the one on the right is optional and will initially be an easily removable mapbox that can get upgraded to a 2nd display later). The dynon in the middle right is a backup to the AFS.

The panel is already cut - and the subpanel mods are complete (they were more work than I thought).

Here is the design file from Visio:



Here it is rendered in aluminum:
 
Smitty - I like the SkyView because I can start out with one display, still doing everything that I need it to, then later (when I can afford it) add a second.
 
Skyview

I would think that revisiting Dynon Skyview about one year from now would be worthwhile. They will be much further along I think. Just one nuts opinion.

:rolleyes:
 
I think I'm getting closer to the final version of my panel. Opinions and advice are welcome!

mypanel.gif


I'm including a small 2 1/4" airspeed indicator and an altimeter just for overkill and brain transitioning. Except for the switches, knobs and fuses, here's my grocery list (top to bottom, left to right):

2 1/4 inch Airspeed Indicator
2 1/4 inch Altimeter
Dynon EFIS-D60 Electronic Flight Information System
Garmin GPSMAP 695 mounted in an AirGizmos Panel Dock
Glove "Map" Box kit from Van's
Flightcom Stereo Intercom - AV FC-403
Garmin SL40 VHF Comm Transceiver
Garmin GTX-327 Digital Transponder
Dynon EMS-D120 Engine Monitoring System
Honeywell Hobbs Hour Meter
 
Smitty,

I have lot's of opinions about panels.

I would ditch the standby steam gauges, the 695 has a set that work just fine.

Hobbs? What are you renting by the hour? SkyView has one built in. I assume the old school EFIS has the same.

Headset jacks, I'd get them away from the panel. Your cords will be hanging off and in the way. Put them behind you. Remember you will likely be leaving your headset in the plane and seldom disconnecting. You could put them on the armrest. The Classic Aero interior armrest accommodates them there (arm rest is 3" short). The Van's Flightcom intercom wiring harness is perfect for the installation in the arm rest.

I am not a fan of the "glove box" in the panel. It's an "instrument panel" should I say more?

I am assuming that your flap switch is on the right side of the mixture control. I would put it directly above the throttle. That way you can have a hand on the throttle and still reach the switch with your finger.

I think you might regret not going with SkyView. I imagine the support for their "old school" EFIS will dwindle. If the future promises are realized SkyView will be the way to go.

That being said, your version still looks great and it'll all be personal preference. Everyone has their own taste and opinion, hey I have several.
 
Hi Smitty - of course I'm not flying yet so take all of the following for what it's worth. Also, it's your panel in your plane, so make it the way you want!

I'd lift up your EFIS - better to have it so your eyes don't have as far to go between EFIS and window.

As for the mechanical instruments, I don't think you'll need them. You should find that you can transition to tapes pretty quickly, especially in a VFR airplane. If you want them as a backup (because all things fail) then I'd go with a Dynon D6. The reason is that then you have a completely independent EFIS for about the same panel size as your two mechanical instruments. You get a 2nd source of attitude and heading as well as altitude and airspeed.

I'd ditch the key switch - because the dangling keys always wear the paint on the panel.

Ditto on the split master - expensive, and not really needed. You can wire two regular toggle switches to do the same thing (see AeroElectric Connection).

Ditto on the circuit breakers. They cost like $20 each, and they aren't really something that you want to mess with in flight. BTW - they are a royal pain to work on in the plane - because of the tiny screws and the angle that they go in on the back side. I've had enought bad experience with them in the Skipper that I'm going with auto fuses on a shelf that swings down under the right side of the panel. I still have just a couple of CBs on the panel for stuff that I want to cycle in flight(like ALT FIELD because of overvoltage protection). If a fuse blows, I land and figure out the problem on the ground. The FAA just release guidance that resetting breakers in flight isn't a good idea.

The map box is a real pain. It is very deep and requires a lot of subpanel mods. I went all the way through that and then ended up with a dual display panel and removed the map box. A lot of people who have it say it isn't worth it. Certainly personal preference, but putting in the center top of the panel is wasting prime real estate... maybe you could consider moving it over to Vans recommended location?

You'll be using the EMS a lot more than the map box- I recommend that you move the EMS to the center top (aligned with the top of the lifted up EFIS). I can't remember if you are building a TU or a slider, but if it is a slider you don't want to mess with the center rib too much. There is heavy structure there for the roll bar brace. That will effectively limit the vertical position of the EMS. Remember to account for the depth of the boxes behind the panel as the ribs / structure generally descends as you move further forward.

I like the passenger headset jacks on the panel. Passengers seem to change a lot and often come with their own headsets. I put the pilot headsets on the aft end of the arrmrest.... so there would be no wires strewn about in the cockpit when I'm by myself.

I'd leave the hobbs meter (but get the smaller square one for like $25 from Spruce). It is my one concession to "old school" tech - and will probably be the only instrument in my plane that doesn't eventually get changed out!

Great panel overall! Panel work is my favorite part of the project so far!

Good luck,
 
Rib Modification

Dave,

Do you have any photos of the mods you had to make to the rib and subpanel behind the avionics trays? I've been thinking of offsetting my avionics to the passenger side of that center rib, but it would be nice to move them into the center.
 
Model for Best Practices...

Smity's got one of the BEST web sites around, and I use it A LOT to see where I'm going next.

I 100% get the idea he is putting forth: Pick a great production plane and look what is best to model. I use the term "Cessna Safe" so you can see what planes I model. If Cessna would do it, so would I

When I asked the question: If everything electrical goes to heck, what do I absolutely need to get home? I started taking pictures of 1040's and 1950's GA airplane panels.

Smity: Are ya thinking about so many steam gauges for the engine?

MY panel to model is the RV-6 that Dynon used to test the Skyview system. DEAD NUTS simple and complete. Wow. See it in the Dynon web site movie for Skyview. Maybe a smaller second screen and maybe different radios.

Blue Skies!

Dkb:cool:


My suggestion would be to look at other RV panels, not what Piper puts in their LSA... after you defined what you are gonna do with your plane (eg. that SL-30 may be an expensive overkill for a day VFR plane)
 
Build it toward your mission

Smitty,

Its looking good. I am putting the backup airspeed and altimeter in my panel as well. If I can't find the money to buy one of those $4000 boxes I don't want that to be the reason the plane doesn't fly. The plane will fly fine in phase 1 with the basic instruments.
 
Thanks for all the input Guys! Here's my latest version. I removed the Hobbs meter, changed out the Dynon 60 for the Dynon 100. I also moved the starter switch to the left of the switches and removed the headset plugs, they will go in the side panels somewhere. I also added two cigarette lighter plugs. I centered up the GPS and the map box around the center panel rib, so it won't interfere with the map box.

mypanel2.gif


2 1/4 inch Airspeed Indicator
2 1/4 inch Altimeter
Dynon EFIS-D100 Electronic Flight Information System
Garmin GPSMAP 695 mounted in an AirGizmos Panel Dock
Glove "Map" Box kit from Van's
Flightcom Stereo Intercom - AV FC-403
Garmin SL40 VHF Comm Transceiver
Garmin GTX-327 Digital Transponder
Dynon EMS-D120 Engine Monitoring System
2 Cigarette lighter receptacles
 
You doing a tipper or a slider?

If it is a tipper, be sure to check the clearance for the map-box to the tipup frame.

Also, with either version, be sure to consider how the radio's will penetrate the subpanel. The angle of the panel makes the radio cutout in the subpanel lower than that of the panel. If you make the radio's too low, they will hit the bottom edge of the subpanel taking out the flange at the bottom. You can build additional braces around that problem but it is a pain.

I think the mapbox from Van's is designed around the 6.25" width. Yours looks narrow.

Plans for an AP? If you are going to use the one built into the Dynon, I would use the AP74 as it makes the interface much better and gives you a knob for adjusting baro etc. If your going with something else, make plans now...
 
Last edited:
Back
Top