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dimple confusion questions

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delusional

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I don't get it. I'm just starting on the HS. I have a nice squeezer that will work fine along the edges. But away from the edges, like the middle nose rib, what tools can be used to dimple, other than a C-frame? Or is a C-frame absolutely compulsory? Or could I use the rivet gun with some special tools/holders?

Can the fancy, latest, lever-type dimpling frames also be used for rivets, or just dimples?

Obviously I'm a rank beginner at this, but I'm not obsessed with perfect rivets or craft in general. Three main priorities are:
-airworthy
-low maintenance
-flying
 
Vise Grip Dimpler

delusional said:
I don't get it. I'm just starting on the HS. I have a nice squeezer that will work fine along the edges. But away from the edges, like the middle nose rib, what tools can be used to dimple, other than a C-frame? Or is a C-frame absolutely compulsory? Or could I use the rivet gun with some special tools/holders?

Can the fancy, latest, lever-type dimpling frames also be used for rivets, or just dimples?

Obviously I'm a rank beginner at this, but I'm not obsessed with perfect rivets or craft in general. Three main priorities are:
-airworthy
-low maintenance
-flying
Click to expand...

Vice grip dimplers work really nice on the ribs. You can purchase then in -3 and -4 sizes. I couldn't live without them.
Happy building,
C.
 
Get a C frame. I do as much dimpling with it as I can as I can get a much crisper, more even dimple, with that tool then I can with any of my squeezers. Once you get into the feel of the thing you can dimple quite quickly. I used squeezers for the ribs and substrcture as it is the best tool for that job.
 
POP rivet dimpler!

I've built a few airplanes. Never owned a "C" frame.
I use a pop rivet dimpler for everything that the vice-grip dimplers won't reach.
Another advantage is, you will NEVER punch an unintended hole with a pop rivet dimpler.
 
I find I have a little better dimple with the C-frame over the pop-rivet dimpler. I think I could live without it if I needed to. The pop-rivet dimpler is essential, and I like the vice-grip dimpler too.

I would think the rivet gun would bounce all over. I haven't tried so I can't say for sure.

The lever-action C-frame will not set rivets.
 
I have a set of pop rivet dies but found it to be kind of a fussy sort of a system that worked for some hard to reach places and I have not used it for the last fifteen years. Perhaps my technique was wrong.
I am sitting here trying to imagine how long it would take to actually dimple the main wing skins using a pop rivet dimple system. I am sure that I have never put a dimple in the wrong spot with a C frame but I will say that my pneumatic squeezer can punch one by mistake quite easily, although that mistake was not repeated!
I would love to have a dimpling technique competition and compare time and quality of different systems. Maybe we can set up a contest at AirVenture or Sun and Fun! I am always looking for better ways of doing things but my money is on the C frame.
I often use it for other jobs as well. It makes a great tool for riveting some difficult to drive rivets. I do not use it for riveting very often but there is something very satisfying about driving a rivet with a hammer. You can watch the shop head form; one tap, whack whack, take a look and whack or tap as needed. Next time you are back riveting something using a rivet gun and back rivet set, put it down and grab a hammer and a punch and give it a try. It is fun; that is how we used to drive all the steel rivets on farm cutting knives.
 
delusional said:
away from the edges, like the middle nose rib, what tools can be used to dimple, other than a C-frame? Or is a C-frame absolutely compulsory? Or could I use the rivet gun with some special tools/holders?

Can the fancy, latest, lever-type dimpling frames also be used for rivets, or just dimples?
Click to expand...


Away from edges, dimples traditionally have been done with a c-frame. As others have stated, tool advancement led to the DRDT and later the DRDT-2 which while are great for dimples, can not be used to set/squeeze rivets.

There are builders that use a die holder to use a rivet gun to do dimples-mid-sheet in combination with a back-rivet plate drilled and countersunk for a female dimple. You can also use a vice drilled to accept a die, or a heavy bucking bar, or anything you choose as long as it stays stationary. This technique is helpful where traditional tools are too large to fit as well like the crotch of trailing edge ribs where the flanges are too close together to be effective with other tools (I prefer vice-grip dimplers here though)

As has been stated by others in this thread, the pop-rivet dimpler can be used (I just havn't had any luck with mine)

DRDT-2 Yes they're very, very good for dimples, No good at all for rivets.

C-frame, not absolutely necessary if you have a DRDT (I choose to own both and do use them both). the C-frame is a very flexible tool (especially the cleaveland one or the avery one with the cleaveland front end kit), can be used to rivet and dimple with great results with or without the use of a rivet gun, the downside is that they're noisy. I've put sound deadening material ALL over mine so that the only noise is from the hammer or from the rivet gun and not from a resonating c-frame. It helps to keep the wife sane.
 
Last edited:
Mel said:
I've built a few airplanes. Never owned a "C" frame.
I use a pop rivet dimpler for everything that the vice-grip dimplers won't reach.
Another advantage is, you will NEVER punch an unintended hole with a pop rivet dimpler.
Click to expand...

I can't imagine dimpling the skins with the pop-rivet dimpler, that had to be very time consuming. If you are in that position again, you are welcome to borrow my c-frame or DRDT-2. If you are headed home on the 78, I'm right along the way. Feel free to use either any time you need it.
 
Thanks, but no thanks!

I actually don't care for the "C" frame. I've once received one as part of a "package" deal. It went straight back to Avery. To each his own. I learned with the pop river dimpler when I started building back in the early '80s and like it. Once you get used to it, it's not that much slower than other methods.
 
can be very spouse friendly

while there are lots of ways to do most everything the drdt2 gives outstanding results with exceptional consistency and can do so with very little training or supervision; many have had great results introducing their spouse to the airplane shop with the quiet action of a smooth lever that actively contributes to the build.
 
My wife enjoys whacking the c-frame with the dead-blow hammer...hahaha

[email protected] said:
while there are lots of ways to do most everything the drdt2 gives outstanding results with exceptional consistency and can do so with very little training or supervision; many have had great results introducing their spouse to the airplane shop with the quiet action of a smooth lever that actively contributes to the build.
Click to expand...
 
DRDT-2

Dude - get the DRDT-2 for ANY large quantities of dimples with long reaches (as in skins). As previously noted, very spouse (or newbie/kid) friendly (she can talk and dimple), very easy to use and you can probably find one used for less than list price - then sell it for the same when done. You have to make sure the male die is in the hole before dimpling, but I've not made an extra hole in thousands of dimples.
 
Absolutely get the DRDT-2

It will do everything you need. They hold their value as well. If you happen to buy a new one, save the box it comes in. Because later when you're done and want to sell it, you can re-box it and UPS Ground to the next guy.
 
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