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New ADAHRS/Magnetometer brackets for RV-7/9/10 builders

greghughespdx

Well Known Member
Advertiser
Van's has released and is now shipping a new mounting tray option for RV-7/9/10 builders who need a place to install common ADAHRS/magnetometer units from Dynon/AFS and Garmin.

These mounts provide the RV-7/9 or RV-10 builder a convenient, pre-fabricated option for installation of common AHARS/ADAHRS components from Dynon and Advanced Flight Systems (SV-ADAHRS-200/201) as well as the Garmin?s GMU-11 magnetometer. When a builder is not using one of these common components, holes may be drilled in the flat support face of the bracket to accommodate other devices, if/where necessary. Determination of suitability for use with other components is the responsibility of the builder. When installed, these brackets are attached in the upper tail cone. Stacking of two Dynon/AFS ADAHRS units is supported.

Detailed information can be found in the OP-60 optional plans drawings, located on the Van's web site at https://www.vansaircraft.com/service-information-and-revisions/op-60/

The Van's part numbers for the kits are:
  • RV-7/9 ADAHRS bracket kit
  • RV-10 ADAHRS bracket kit
 
Thank you

Greg, I've put this off for literally a couple years because I didn't want to take the brain power to make my own design, while covered in dust from sanding and shaping the cabin top.

I know this is a simple "mod" for builders, but thank you for giving us an easy button...and at an affordable price $20.

Just placed my order.
 
Sold! I was just about to start one! So glad I waited now.

See you tomorrow! You must work upstairs...
 
Just me

I?m thinking of using this to mount a gmu-22 after cutting a hole in it.

Any Thoughts?

The magnetometer seems to fit real nice under the tail fairing. I am going to be running a G5 backup so still need to plumb the static lines to the front ; so i will put my ahrds there.

I guess maybe this would be a good place for the gmu22 since it allows the elt antenna to be under the tail fairing.

Those are my thoughts. But now you got me thinking to put my GMU11 here. And elt antenna in the tail fairing.
 
Greg, I've put this off for literally a couple years because I didn't want to take the brain power to make my own design, while covered in dust from sanding and shaping the cabin top.

I know this is a simple "mod" for builders, but thank you for giving us an easy button...and at an affordable price $20.

Just placed my order.

Glad to hear it helps you ? and others ? with your build! Trust me I know how customizing brackets can take time - I?ve just about finally finished adapting a RV-14 fuel valve/pump/filter system to my RV-8A build while moving things around to make it all a bit easier to maintain over time. But that custom bracket stuff... let?s just say I?m nowhere near as smart as all the engineers I work with!! :)

We hope to keep brining new ideas like this to the RV world here and there.
 
See you tomorrow! You must work upstairs...

I do but I?m the non-engineer who sits amongst the (much smarter and more talented) engineers! I?ll be embarking on a RV XC journey on Tuesday but do ask for me and say hi if I?m still at the office and haven?t left by the time you?re there!
 
Hi Van's & folks, This mount is being shipped with steel rivets that cannot be used near the gmu 22 or gmu 11 or likely other magnetometers. Need to get Van's to ship it with alum rivets.
 
Our experience, such as with the RV-12, is that the small amount of ferrous metal that remains inside the pulled/blind rivets after the steel mandrel has been pulled and removed has not been an issue, and the GMU units have worked fine when mounted this way. That said, if you wish to use a different rivet you may of course choose to do so.
 
I?m thinking of using this to mount a gmu-22 after cutting a hole in it.

Any Thoughts?

The new ADAHRS mounting brackets already have mounting holes for the Garmin GMU-22, GMU-11 and the Dynon SV-ADAHRS-200.

Just bolt the GMU-22 to the bottom face of the new bracket with the connector up thought the existing hole.

The photograph of the F-00149 in the OP-60 document is an early prototype unit, the parts being shipped are as shown in Figures 1 & 2.

OP60-01.pdf
 
I'm actually replacing my homebrewed -10 mount with one of these.

I get the part isn't symmetrical and is made to go more towards the port side.
Has anyone had any luck trimming the top of one of the tabs and placing it in the middle section?

How about possibly using non-ferrous hardware like brass and dropping in my case the GMU-11 down about 6"? My main concern is the length of my harness not reaching the new mount.
 
I'm actually replacing my homebrewed -10 mount with one of these.

I get the part isn't symmetrical and is made to go more towards the port side.
Has anyone had any luck trimming the top of one of the tabs and placing it in the middle section?

How about possibly using non-ferrous hardware like brass and dropping in my case the GMU-11 down about 6"? My main concern is the length of my harness not reaching the new mount.

This might be more work than it is worth. It is relatively small and short. If I were considering a center mount with this I would look into using two. I haven't even though about it but that is what popped into my head.

49001267533_d27bb4f1c4_c.jpg
[/url]IMAG0943 by Kent Luttrell, on Flickr[/IMG]

Here is a picture installed in my -7. There are holes in each leg(tab) that are large considering the size of the part itself.
Something to consider, they are inexpensive.
 
Our experience, such as with the RV-12, is that the small amount of ferrous metal that remains inside the pulled/blind rivets after the steel mandrel has been pulled and removed has not been an issue, and the GMU units have worked fine when mounted this way. That said, if you wish to use a different rivet you may of course choose to do so.

To add to that, the GMU 11 is shipped with steel mounting screws. I suspect they would have used brass if that was a problem.

Larry
 
This might be more work than it is worth.

I actually think you're right. I'll mount it in a similar spot and see if I can successfully reach it with my existing harness. If not I 'll make some extensions out of aluminum tubing or something and drop it below the bracket.

Received the part today, was looking forward to some construction... but it only took me about 10 mins to remove the bluing, cut the tabs and deburr the part.

Update: Didn't realize this mounts essentially on the first frame behind the baggage bulkhead. Won't work for me because of my AC unit. Went back to my old homebrew part.
 
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You can use the one from Garmin, or the -14 one from Vans.

True, but the one from Garmin is $750 and the RV-14 needs modification to fit...or I could just make my own. But that ignores the point, which is - maybe Van's could make one for the -10?

Just looking to add things to the Christmas Wish List; the ADHARS bracket is on it.
 
Just making sure you're aware of the options. I went with the Garmin one, just to save me the time fiddling with things. I agree though it's a big expensive for what it is.
 
Just making sure you're aware of the options. I went with the Garmin one, just to save me the time fiddling with things. I agree though it's a big expensive for what it is.

Thanks; in the end, I'll probably just get the Garmin kit too. They're stuff is expensive, but generally well thought out and good quality. BTW, Sarasota Avionics has it for $550.
 
Slider

Will the ADAHRS freek out when using a slider RV7 since the steel canopy frame will move very close to it?
 
Will the ADAHRS freek out when using a slider RV7 since the steel canopy frame will move very close to it?

As Carl said, the canopy has to be closed, then no problem. When i was calibrating my Dynon ADAHRS on the compass rose, it wouldn't complete the calibration. Rob Hickman actually answered his cell phone on a Sunday afternoon and made me aware of that important step.
 
Will the ADAHRS freek out when using a slider RV7 since the steel canopy frame will move very close to it?

Dynon has very complete instructions for conducting the compass calibration. A snippet from their Installation Guide:

"During the compass calibration, the aircraft’s configuration and major systems should be in a state that resembles flight conditions (i.e., the canopy should be closed, the aircraft’s pitch attitude matches SkyView’s attitude depiction, the engine should be running, and all electronic devices used in flight should be on).

Tail wheel equipped aircraft can be calibrated in their normal nose up ground attitude as long as the SkyView attitude display shows the correct corresponding nose up attitude."
 
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