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  #1  
Old 06-12-2017, 05:51 PM
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DonFromTX DonFromTX is offline
 
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Default Oil Change Instructiions

OK, I have been changing oil for over 65 years, but thought I would check to see if my newly acquired Rotax was any different. To my dismay, although th previous owner included many manuals and papers, I can find NOTHING on changing the oil. Where should I be looking?
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  #2  
Old 06-12-2017, 06:18 PM
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For a simple oil change just drain and refill the tank without leaving it empty for long. With the filter also, there's a little more to it. You should be able to google some good videos about what to do with each line when you pull the can to wipe it out. If you let oil out of certain lines you have to do a pressure purge.
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  #3  
Old 06-12-2017, 06:58 PM
DHeal DHeal is online now
 
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There is a lot of information on maintaining the ROTAX 912 ULS on the following sites: 1.) www.rotax-owner.com and 2.) http://www.flyrotax.com/services/tec...mentation.html

One unique caveat regarding the 912's oil change (and in general): Do not turn the propeller backwards. That may cause air pockets to form in the various oil lines and require a "purging" of the oil system. "Purging" is not the same as the more typical "burping" of the oil system. This is all explained in the ROTAX service publications and various informational videos.

Keep in mind that the 912 is not like a Cont/Lyco/Frank -- the 912 requires specific maintenance techniques and procedures that are somewhat different from those used on traditional aircraft engines.
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  #4  
Old 06-12-2017, 07:00 PM
PilotBrent PilotBrent is offline
 
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Don, suggest you download the most current ROTAX MAINTENANCE MANUAL from the FlyRotax website (you want the Line Maintenance Manual) All the latest ROTAX manuals are available online and should be referenced. The site has lots of factory documents for download.

http://www.flyrotax.com/services/tec...mentation.html

Oil change is described on pg49. As mentioned, not complicated at all, but follow the torque specs etc... and you'll avoid problems later.

Better yet, 2 day service course is very worthwhile. Its not a Lycoming.
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  #5  
Old 06-12-2017, 07:46 PM
Jolly Jolly is offline
 
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Rotate the prop first to get the tank gurgle. This pushes the excess oil back to the tank from the crankcase. If you fail to do this you might over fill the tank later and just make a mess all over the asphalt. Remove the oil tank drain plug and drain the oil. Fill the tank with 3 liters of Aero Shell Sport Plus 4. The containers come in liters. Do not put in less. 3 liters fills the new oil filter and puts the level at the top of the flat area on the dipstick. Don't forget to safety wire the oil tank plug. Remove the old oil filter and install the new one. After the oil filter starts to touch the case housing rotate the oil filter 3/4 turn. You most likely won't get this without a wrench. Then remove the magnetic oil plug and look for long slivers, chunks of metal or if it looks like it has a beard. If it has a few specs here and there that is normal. There is a Rotax SB out on this with pictures. Replace the magnetic plug and safety wire. Now that every thing is back in place and oil in the tank rotate the prop approximately 20 times. This will help pre fill the oil filter and help relieve any air in the system. The Rotax oil filter has a check valve in it and can't be pre filled. Some air is okay. Now you can start the engine if you want.

Hope this helps.
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  #6  
Old 06-12-2017, 07:58 PM
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DonFromTX DonFromTX is offline
 
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Wow, that helped a lot!! Thanks.
I am aware of the unique needs of the Rotax, and will certainly download manuals, all I can get. For today all I wanted to do is get some fresh oil and filter on it.

QUOTE=Jolly;1179976]Rotate the prop first to get the tank gurgle. This pushes the excess oil back to the tank from the crankcase. If you fail to do this you might over fill the tank later and just make a mess all over the asphalt. Remove the oil tank drain plug and drain the oil. Fill the tank with 3 liters of Aero Shell Sport Plus 4. The containers come in liters. Do not put in less. 3 liters fills the new oil filter and puts the level at the top of the flat area on the dipstick. Don't forget to safety wire the oil tank plug. Remove the old oil filter and install the new one. After the oil filter starts to touch the case housing rotate the oil filter 3/4 turn. You most likely won't get this without a wrench. Then remove the magnetic oil plug and look for long slivers, chunks of metal or if it looks like it has a beard. If it has a few specs here and there that is normal. There is a Rotax SB out on this with pictures. Replace the magnetic plug and safety wire. Now that every thing is back in place and oil in the tank rotate the prop approximately 20 times. This will help pre fill the oil filter and help relieve any air in the system. The Rotax oil filter has a check valve in it and can't be pre filled. Some air is okay. Now you can start the engine if you want.

Hope this helps.[/quote]
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  #7  
Old 06-13-2017, 05:52 AM
bruceflys bruceflys is offline
 
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Default Nicely Stated

You presented an excellent oil change process outline, Jolly. But just to be sure, I would emphasize that the oil system should be open at only one place at a time. The tank should be connected and contain oil while changing the filter. The filter should be in place while draining and refilling the tank. Otherwise air will enter the oil circuit, which then requires the pressure purging process.
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  #8  
Old 12-06-2017, 02:52 PM
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DonFromTX DonFromTX is offline
 
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Maybe I was following this earlier advice in this thread as well, which apparently is incorrect.
QUOTE=Jolly;1179976]Rotate the prop first to get the tank gurgle. This pushes the excess oil back to the tank from the crankcase. If you fail to do this you might over fill the tank later and just make a mess all over the asphalt. Remove the oil tank drain plug and drain the oil. Fill the tank with 3 liters of Aero Shell Sport Plus 4. The containers come in liters. Do not put in less. 3 liters fills the new oil filter and puts the level at the top of the flat area on the dipstick. Don't forget to safety wire the oil tank plug. Remove the old oil filter and install the new one. After the oil filter starts to touch the case housing rotate the oil filter 3/4 turn. You most likely won't get this without a wrench. Then remove the magnetic oil plug and look for long slivers, chunks of metal or if it looks like it has a beard. If it has a few specs here and there that is normal. There is a Rotax SB out on this with pictures. Replace the magnetic plug and safety wire. Now that every thing is back in place and oil in the tank rotate the prop approximately 20 times. This will help pre fill the oil filter and help relieve any air in the system. The Rotax oil filter has a check valve in it and can't be pre filled. Some air is okay. Now you can start the engine if you want.

Hope this helps.[/quote]
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