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Cleaning engine after messy oil filter change

Break cleaner

I don't think you're wrong I've been using it for many years on all types of applications from bulldozers to motorcycles, Corvettes to airplanes with no harm to anything. BUT NOT THE CANOPY!! Everything seems to harm that piece of clear plastic.
 
A friend gave me an oil filter adapter that positions the filter to come off down so oil will not drip out. I'm sure I will make a mess but at least I have a chance!
 
Again, not an answer, but I've had good luck with (after loosening filter to finger tight) putting a plastic bag over the filter and fastening it just ahead of the filter with a zip-tie. Then tear a hole in the bag and unscrew the filter. The oil should run down into the (heavy duty) plastic bag, then you can drop the filter in there as well and cut the zip-tie.
 
After landing from a flight, so the oil is hot, I simply level the plane (tail dragger), start draining the oil, and punch a small hole in the filter so that the oil drains out of the filter. I go home for the evening, and I come back, the filter is empty and all I have to do is wipe up a drop or two. Of course this assumes that the filter is at an angle so that it will drain.
 
Not an answer to your question asked but an option so that you don’t need to ask the question in the future... :D

form-a-funnels are the cats meow when it comes to getting the filter off without making a mess. Nothing really worked until I tried it.
https://www.amazon.com/Form-Funnel-...1517453355&sr=8-1&keywords=form+a+funnel&th=1

Hope this helps.

This is what I use. No punching holes, no bags, no mess whatsoever. I have a papertowel standing by to wipe up any drips off hoses, etc.

I also use the Anit-Splat Aero Oil filer wrench - highly recommend it as well.
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Oil Change

I have found that simply using an old margarine container to place under the filter while draining the filter works great. Same idea as the "form a filter" but the magerine container is flexible enough for me to fit it under the filter, place the filter in it and bring it back out with no mess. If your engine compartment is too tight, this would not work.
 
Why? Phillips screwdriver and a small hammer accomplishes the same thing, and they are already in my toolbox. Give it a couple hours and you'll remove the filter without any drips.

Greg, what you are missing here is that a tube attaches to the puncture apparatus and routes the oil from the filter to a container of your choice at the other end of the tube below the aircraft. Screw in to puncture, back out (not too far) to get the oil flowing.

I used this for the first time my last oil change. Decent results on a warm engine. Will continue to use it, although I am intrigued by the plastic bag solution suggested.
 
What a shame...... They took a very simple product and made a big deal out of it.

The one I purchased from spruce was a punch and a band that had a small tube with an o ring on it to seal the drain hole.... Drains through tubing.... Very clean.
 
I have found that simply using an old margarine container to place under the filter while draining the filter works great.

I use an empty plastic pint Camguard bottle. Cut out the side to fit the filter. Two lengths of safety wire attached and looped to hold it in place. Works so much better than my form a funnel.
 
I generally use a tallboy aluminum can cut with a utility knife to crinkle under the filter, I used to also wedge a diaper under the can but with a little time and care the can alone works perfectly.
 
I prefer Super Clean for most degreasing in the engine compartment. WalMart carries it. Cleans and degreases better than anything else I have tried.
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[/url]61H7FjseOxL._SY679_ by David C, on Flickr[/IMG]
Then a water rinse and wipe down. For areas where I can't reach to wipe afterwards, I use Brake Cleaner to dry everything up. IMHO, those filter draining piercing tools are an expensive solution to a simple solution; using a quart size oil container with the side cut out. Read about it here long ago. I have tried the bag method with hit and miss results. When I use the oil container, I find it easy to just crack the oil filter loose, put a good size rag under the filter to catch any drips, position the oil container underneath the filter with one hand and remove the filter with the other. As soon as its disengaged with the threaded nipple I pull it far enough back to clear then tilt it up so minimum oil drains out. I then work the oil catch container out along with the filter at the same time. Any drips are absorbed by the rag. This worked great on my RV-10 with horizontal mounted filter. My RV-9A has the filter vertical but I will probably use the same method. I have a dedicated oil recycle container in the hanger, an empty 2-1/2 gallon Phillips C/X oil container with a large funnel in it. The oil catch and filter are placed to drain for several hours before I open the filter for inspection. The local auto parts stores like the larger container for emptying out and recycling the oil.
 
When I use the oil container, I find it easy to just crack the oil filter loose, put a good size rag under the filter to catch any drips, position the oil container underneath the filter with one hand and remove the filter with the other.

A baby diaper is the perfect "good size rag". Very absorbent!
 
I use an old bath towel. Shove it up, in, and around all the nooks and crannies where the oil might drip or migrate to. Simple, cheap, and works great.
 
cleaning engine/airframe

Two related Qs:

1. I've been thinking of using my pressure washed to clean the engine and accessories. Any known reason this shouldn't work on a completely cold engine? I realize I'll need to dial back the pressure some.

2. Will Dawn dishwashing liquid harm unpainted airframe? thinking about using it to clean the oil off the belly, followed by a good water rinse.

Robert
 
Regular Go-Jo (not orange or pumice) does a fantastic job on belly grime and exhaust stains. No harm to paint, metal, fabric or hands.
Slop it on, go have a cup of coffee, come back and wipe it off.

George
 
Will Dawn dishwashing liquid harm unpainted airframe? thinking about using it to clean the oil off the belly, followed by a good water rinse.
I've been using windex for the belly for quite a while. Recently I started adding about two tablespoons of Nuvite S to the bottle and shaking until it dissolves. That cleans the oil off and gives a light polish to the surface as it's wiped down.
 
Yup. If your filter is horizontal like mine is, it only drains about half way.
Folks, a fellow mechanic shared with me the easiest way to deal with the oil filter, if you have compressed air available.
1. punch hole near the back of the can on the upside.
2. Attach air blow tool to air hose (kind with rubber tip)
3. Adjust air pressure relatively low, say 40 psi
4. Hold rubber tip to hole you punched and apply air pressure
5. continue blowing air through the filter for approx 5 min
This will leave inside of filter dry, driving all oil back to crankcase, and has filter ready to cut after removal, with no mess.
Method works best with warm to hot oil.
Usual precautions about pressurized air...eye protection, hold nozzle tight to hole in filter, etc. First time I tried, could not believe how easy and effective this method is...especially for folks that can't wait over night for draining.
 
Folks, a fellow mechanic shared with me the easiest way to deal with the oil filter, if you have compressed air available.
1. punch hole near the back of the can on the upside.
2. Attach air blow tool to air hose (kind with rubber tip)
3. Adjust air pressure relatively low, say 40 psi
4. Hold rubber tip to hole you punched and apply air pressure
5. continue blowing air through the filter for approx 5 min
This will leave inside of filter dry, driving all oil back to crankcase, and has filter ready to cut after removal, with no mess.
Method works best with warm to hot oil.
Usual precautions about pressurized air...eye protection, hold nozzle tight to hole in filter, etc. First time I tried, could not believe how easy and effective this method is...especially for folks that can't wait over night for draining.
Great idea and a business opportunity for someone to create a re-usable fitting that could punch and thread into hole in the filter. Attach the hose and walk away for a few minutes...
 
Nothing trapped in the filter media follows that oil backwards into the engine, eh?

I know there usually is not hopefully much metal trapped, and any potentially cut-filter media inspection shocking findings or progrssive monitoring would likely not change detection or outcomes.

Clean idea, for someone who cares more about staying tidy outside than inside the engine.

What if you put a diaper in a bag under the filter where you punch an exit hole, then from a second hole above, pressurize the filter with just enough psi to more quickly drain the filter without overcoming the anti-drainback into the engine?

Faster than punching a few holes and letting the filter drain overnight. Just as tidy, assuming the diaper is easily disposed of properly.
 
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1. I've been thinking of using my pressure washed to clean the engine and accessories. Any known reason this shouldn't work on a completely cold engine? I realize I'll need to dial back the pressure some.
Couple issues I can think of that would absolutely steer me away from this:
1. Even dialed down pressure and the FWF seems like a bad idea--too many relatively fragile things--think small wires, air filters, etc.
2. Introducing water anywhere there are electrical connections seems like an even worse idea. The problems might not crop up until later when terminals have had a chance to corrode.

One of my automotive mechanics jokes that he likes to work on cars whose owners feel the need to pressure wash their engine. First because it is a nice clean engine to work on. Second, because of all the later maintenance that needs to be done due to corroded connections. (I think he's must be joking about the last point especially because tracking down electrical issues is frustrating and laborious, even if it is profitable for him.)
 
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Nothing trapped in the filter media follows that oil backwards into the engine, eh?]
The oil system pushes oil through the filter at 50-90 psi. You can adjust your compressed air to a pressure you are comfortable with. I would say the oil is most likely to return to the engine via the same path it does when the engine is operating, and thus is unlikely to dislodge anything from the filter.
However, even if it flows in reverse direction, if you are using less pressure than what drives the oil through normally, it is unlikely to dislodge.
Alternative is to use a non-Lycoming filter adapter that holds the filter near vertical so oil drains back naturally.
 
Alternative is to use a non-Lycoming filter adapter that holds the filter near vertical so oil drains back naturally.

This doesn?t actually work, as the angled oil filter adapters use a filter with a check valve that traps oil inside so that the engine doesn?t have to fill the filter on each start (thereby letting it be oil starved for a few seconds). Unfortunately, when you spin the filter off, the trapped oil pours out through the ?other side? of the check valve, creating the mess.

I use a large zip lock bag with some shop rags (or diaper material) tucked up underneath to catch the drippings. Works MOST of the time - except when the bag skips and it makes a mess.....

Paul
 
Could you punch a drain hole AND a vent hole so the check valve is not in play? Just don't put it on the line your filter cutter will slice, probably below.
 
Could you punch a drain hole AND a vent hole so the check valve is not in play? Just don't put it on the line your filter cutter will slice, probably below.

The filter will drain just fine with just the drain hole punched in it.
 
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