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New RV-12 SB13-12-12...

There's gotta be a better way

than removing the instrument panels with all the stuff that's now attached to them! This looks like a recipe for all kinds of avionics failures. Anybody looked at doing this from the outside with the upper fuse skin (attached with screws) off?

Those of us flying sport pilot shouldn't be in precip but there are airplanes outside, I guess

:confused:
Wayne 120241/143WM
 
Removing F-1240 upper fuse skin

Sure looks like the simplest way to handle this is the remove the upper fuse skin, apply Boelube and sealant and then reattach. Agree that reaching in through the instrument panels to apply a bead of sealant doesn't look like the best way to do this, but the SB suggests that for flying aircraft.
 
Am I missing something?

I am a VFR only pilot , in a VFR only airplane so tell me why I need to seal the avionics bay? I have been flying for 2.5 years. It was obvious that in rain, water might get into the avionics. But, I fly LSA, no IFR, no rain, no problem! I am guessing that the RV-12 isn't so hot in ice either. Come on Folks, the 12 is a VFR airplane. Don't fly into rain, which usually seems to be associated with clouds and/or IFR conditions. When I wash my airplane I try not to spray water in a way to get my expensive avionics wet. I have had no problems wih moisture to date. If I parked my plane on the ramp, I would not depend on RTV to keep water out, I would buy a quality canopy cover.
 
Maybe not in Kalifornia, but I've been flying for over 45 years, all VFR, and I've flown in lots of rain.
 
I fly LSA, no IFR, no rain, no problem!
Same here, but I will do it anyway. Even flying VFR, I can (and have) encounter light rain. More than that, having just sold an airplane, I now know how particular buyers can be about SBs and the like. This one seems pretty easy, but it will have to wait until next time the avionics cover is off.
 
This SB leaves me confused.....Van's airplanes don't leak. Just ask them.:cool:

Oh, and there can be plenty of rain even in VFR conditions...
 
I'm considering the use of a rubber "U" channel on the lip with the nut plates. It might be too thick, but it's worth exploring.
 
Boy that was close! This SB applies to fuselage kits shipped prior to Dec. 13. I'm picking mine up next week, so won't have to worry about this. ;)

Besides it never rains in the Pacific Northwest! :eek:

Jim
 
Boy that was close! This SB applies to fuselage kits shipped prior to Dec. 13. I'm picking mine up next week, so won't have to worry about this. ;)

Besides it never rains in the Pacific Northwest! :eek:

Jim

Jim,
All that means is any kit after that point will have it documented within the KAI (kit assembly instructions)
 
Jim,
All that means is any kit after that point will have it documented within the KAI (kit assembly instructions)

Yes, I had assumed that. Since my kit is so close to the cutoff date for the SB, I'll check to see that it made it into the KAI.

Jim
 
Boy that was close! This SB applies to fuselage kits shipped prior to Dec. 13. I'm picking mine up next week, so won't have to worry about this. ;)
Besides it never rains in the Pacific Northwest! :eek:
Jim

I thought that was the Pacific Northwet!
 
I'm a bit confused here too

Sure looks like the simplest way to handle this is the remove the upper fuse skin, apply Boelube and sealant and then reattach. Agree that reaching in through the instrument panels to apply a bead of sealant doesn't look like the best way to do this, but the SB suggests that for flying aircraft.

It looks to me like following the "Aircraft Under Construction" method is a whole lot less rigmarole. Getting the skin off and back on cleanly could be mighty tricky unless you remove the canopy, allowing you to put a bead of sealant on and the cleanly place the skin back down, but this seems like it would be a lot easier than removing panels and trying to make a nice fillet by reaching in through the panel side. Am I missing something here?
 
Rigamarole?

That was something my Daddy used to say I gave him...but I never new what it was!
 
I thought that was the Pacific Northwet!

Mel, I lived on the North Oregon Coast (near the mouth of the Columbia River) for 35 years before moving into the Willamette Valley last year. I wholeheartily agree with the moniker "Pacific Northwet" when talking about the Oregon Coast! :(

Jim
 
So, Scott, when does the air blast kit release? Flew a week or so ago and it was 12 degrees at 3500 ft - my wife and I were bundled to the hilt and had to give up after 45 minutes. Had rags and wx stripping and masking tape shoved in every nook and cranny. Wonder what that would do for a potential buyer???

Bob Bogash
N737G
 
Wonder what that would do for a potential buyer???

Boeing is still selling planes.... Temperature control in the B737 is far more worse than my car. Took more than an hour to get warm feet after a cold start in winter (talking about the B737, heated footplates in the B777 are great).

Lowest temperature flown in with the RV-12 is 32F/0C. I was only wearing a t-shirt and shirt. Openend the heater control 1/2 of an inch (have to admit I installed the Bender baffle).
I use a black hollow silicon based profile from Elton (Dutch company). Two strips (from the three like the picture) is exactly the width of the canopy frame. It covers from 1-7 mm / 0,08-0,28". Seals very well and looks good. No draft anywhere along the canopy.

1017286_1.jpg
 
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VFR certainly doesn't mean no rain. It rains many times in VMC conditions. We wash our airplanes. Even hangared airplanes are parked outside on cross-country flights, at fly-ins, etc. It rains. So I will seal my compartment.

JRo
 
Butyl rubber tape?

For those still building, wonder if a thin strip of 3/32? Butyl rubber tape would be a possible good option for sealing the forward edge of the F-1240 upper fuselage skin? Would not have to worry about silicone getting onto the aluminum and the problems that can cause later getting paint to stick properly.
 
For those still building, wonder if a thin strip of 3/32? Butyl rubber tape would be a possible good option for sealing the forward edge of the F-1240 upper fuselage skin? Would not have to worry about silicone getting onto the aluminum and the problems that can cause later getting paint to stick properly.

This was looked at initially.
One issue that results from the great fitting prepunched parts is they are sized for pretty much a net fit. Anything added between the skins that would be more than just a few thousandths thick would cause screw alignment issues because of the curved shape of the skin.
 
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