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aileron gap seal rivet

R

RepmikeBrown

Well Known Member
Plans call for riveting the aileron gap seal with an 426 ad 3-3 on top and pop riveting the bottom to the rear spar. I've already riveted the bottom skins, so when I work my way out from the inboard top skins to the tip, using the peel back method, how can I install the bottom row of 3-3s into the gap seal with no way to buck them? Maybe I've missed something, any help is sure appreciated.
Mike
 
an rivets

Thanks Roger, I was hoping to not have any blind rivets on top skin as plan calls out
but the older video I have says I'll have to use blind rivets there.
 
Another option is not to use any rivets attached to the top skin...:)

A new gap seal part will be long enough on the top surface to be sandwiched between the top skin and the rear spar.

Match drill and rivet the spar gap seal at the same time the top skin is attached.

Before any riveting make sure the rear spar flange angle is correct and no "ski jump" is being created on the top surface.
 
RepmikeBrown said:
Plans call for riveting the aileron gap seal with an 426 ad 3-3 on top and pop riveting the bottom to the rear spar. I've already riveted the bottom skins, so when I work my way out from the inboard top skins to the tip, using the peel back method, how can I install the bottom row of 3-3s into the gap seal with no way to buck them? Maybe I've missed something, any help is sure appreciated.
Mike
Click to expand...

I clecoed the gap seal to the top skin with the skin already riveted in place. Then I slid a skinny bucking bar up from the bottom - between the gap seal and the spar to buck the rivets. I came back after the top rivets were in place and riveted the bottom of the gap seal.
 
Kyle, how wide were you able to spread the gap seal away from the rear spar? Were you able to see your shop heads or were you only able to feel for proper shop head form?
 
RepmikeBrown said:
Kyle, how wide were you able to spread the gap seal away from the rear spar? Were you able to see your shop heads or were you only able to feel for proper shop head form?
Click to expand...

Mike, IIRC, I had a bucking bar that was around 3/4" wide. I could look down through the gap after driving a rivet to see the shop head.

One thing to remember is that these are not structurally critical rivets. You're trying to hold a gap seal in place, not keep a wing attached. ;-)

The point is, if you bugger up a few of the shop heads, it doesn't matter from a practical perspective.
 
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