Early RV-6 models

Dear RV experts,

since I am looking into buying an RV-6, I wonder what differences there are between early RV-6s from the beginning of the nineties and later models and what developments they might be missing over the later ones.
I know there are hanging rudder pedals and different rudders.
Any other Information or hint on already existing sites with info what came available at what time would be very much appreciated.

Thank you,
Volker.

I have an early -6 and love it.

Hanging pedals...YES, I wish I had them, but the conversion is pretty extensive.

Larger rudder......NO, (personal opinion). The larger rudder give you more authority, but the fact that it is larger causes you to need more authority.
In my opinion the effectiveness of the larger rudder is a wash. Therefore it comes down to "looks" and I like the looks of the original better.

YMMV.

I'm with Mel

My -6A first flew 1/93 ----- has the floor-mounted pedals (no issue, for me), but the original builder did a great job on the airplane and I really like the smaller VS/rudder for appearance.

I have flown 7s (and 8s and 10s) and have found nothing to justify the price difference (to me). The 6/6A are a bargain.

Short tail -6

I am building a short-tail 6. I have been told by folks at the Mothership that this is the sweetest handling RV of them all. I hope that's true! I am told that the -7 has a bit more interior room, and I really like the wing attach on the -7 versus the -6, simply because I can't permanently mount the sticks until the wings are on. Other than that I think the six wins hands-down. Go course, I could be cinsidered a bit prejudiced ..... YMMV

Later models could use some of the 7 finishing kit stuff like firewall mounted battery, tunnel, fuel selector doghouse, etc.... Nothing wrong with the original design but the 7 stuff has some merits.

Mel said:

I have an early -6 and love it.

Hanging pedals...YES, I wish I had them, but the conversion is pretty extensive.

......snipped.....
YMMV.

Click to expand...

Mel,
I too have the floor mounted pedals, and am currently in progress to convert to the hanging pedals. I was wondering if you would expand on your "pretty extensive" comment? The project as I am seeing it would require:
1. Addition of the center bracket to support the torque tube at mid-span.
2. Addition of the mounting blocks on the stringers.
3. In my case, additional plumbing for the right brakes.
Are there other items that I am missing? I do agree with you that it is not a quick job, but it did not seem to be a major modification. However, if I am missing something, I want to shut this project down before I get past the point of no return!
Thanks!

Mainly it's the idea of having to do all the work under the panel.
Us old farts don't find that kind of work amusing any more.

Mark, split the mounting blocks to make them much easier to install and remove later if necessary. You can insert a thin shim between the halves to make up for the saw kerf.

Roger that, Mel!

Mel....Even at 56, I am finding it harder to access under the panel of any plane. Actually, the access is easy! it is the getting out event that brings nightmares!

Thanks for the tip on the blocks, Sam. Due to some space constraints, I am having to fab my own mounting blocks, which will be split anyway. However, even with my feeble fabrication skills, it was apparent that not splitting even the original blocks would make it a very difficult to get in/out.

Some of the early RV six builders installed the fresh air inlets too low and close to the longeron and left no room for overhead pedal mounts so conversion requires the relocation of the vents. On the early models there was little guidance for location of the vents. Larry

LARCO said:

Some of the early RV six builders installed the fresh air inlets too low and close to the longeron and left no room for overhead pedal mounts so conversion requires the relocation of the vents. On the early models there was little guidance for location of the vents. Larry

Click to expand...

You have hit the nail on the head, Larry!

Neu vs Alt...

Mozart said:

Dear RV experts,

since I am looking into buying an RV-6, I wonder what differences there are between early RV-6s from the beginning of the nineties and later models and what developments they might be missing over the later ones.
I know there are hanging rudder pedals and different rudders.
Any other Information or hint on already existing sites with info what came available at what time would be very much appreciated.

Thank you,
Volker.

Click to expand...

Vie Gheits Volker,
My experience with the RV6 is building a hybrid RV4/6 combination I call the RVX. It is an RV6 fuselage with RV4 wings and tail, slightly smaller surfaces than even a old version RV6. Flight characteristics, excellent.

Answering your questions. Big tail a need? No. It was initially a Van's CYA decision to simplify selling parts and help low time pilots not accustomed to using the rudder have more authority at low speed, ie/ stall spin. (heard that from the horses mouth FYI) 180 CS needed? No, IMHO the 0-320 wood/composite prop airplanes under 1000 lbs EW fly better. Slider vs tip up? I built a slider since I live where it gets hot although I often get the priveledge of flying the VAF flagship, a tilt up. Better vis without a doubt.

My experience? Previously I built an RV4 back in the 1980's/90's and rebuilt a Rocket, flying both for 10 years Best flying RV? IMHO the RV3 is actually the best handling RV of them all with the RV4 a close second and the Rocket right alongside. Least desired handling? RV9 with the 7/8 close behind again, IMHO.

Here are some additional comparisons, Mel covered it very well.
Old vs New:
1. Rudder pedals, as mentioned above.
2. No QB wings available or pre drilled parts.
3. More 0-320 wood prop combinations as that was the original RV6 prototype.
4. Small tail, best looking except for mine which is slightly smaller and less sweep since it came from the RV4 and even more attractive IMHO...
5. Sloshed fuel tanks (sealant) more common as the early plans called for it. Be careful here, it peels off with age.
6. Slightly shorter gear, on the early kits.
7. Vinylester cowling and wingtips along with the rest of the fiberglass parts. Pre Preg didn't arrive until the late 90's. Early cowls crack easier.
8. .016 Tail feathers (elev and rudder) Newer tails have .020. Less chance of cracking. If you see an 0-360 CS early Six with .016 tail feathers, look closely for cracks!

Good luck, email me offline with questions!
Tcheus!
Smokey
[email protected]

I purchased (with smokyray's help!) an early RV-6 that was finished in 1993, I'm pretty sure the tail kit was started in 1988. Serial no. 20200. The airplane is basically in great shape, but there were some things to address.

Items of note, some already mentioned:

Low mount rudder pedals. The only issue I have with these is that the geometry, for me, means I need to wear fairly soft shoes while flying or I can have some unintended brake application, especially in a crosswind.

Cockpit vent NACA scoops. The precise location was not specified in the plans. Looks like mine are JUST low enough it interfere with a swap to high mount pedals, need to think about this more.

Seat belts. On mine the harness went through the baggage bulkhead with a short cable to the same mount point currently used. They were old and needed to be changed anyway, so I bought and installed the anchor cable kit and new harnesses. Of course the baggage bulkhead had to modified slightly.

Tail wheel and spring. Mine had the old style non-swivel tail wheel and spring assembly. I should have cut my spring and had it machined but I thought it would be easier to drill a new one. Good plan until I discovered how crooked the original hole was. I had to build a jig to drill a matching crooked hole in the new spring.

"Skinny" wheel pants. The pants were fit very close to the tires, which were four ply, and the tires were rubbing at the top with no room for any other type of tire. The gear leg fairings were split mid "span" to accommodate removal and install, and would usually look a little wonky. I ended up putting all new Vans pants/fairings on, which I was inclined to do anyway.

Slosh. My tanks are sloshed and I watch them very closely. They were done right though, with slosh carefully applied only on the seams and aft bulkhead. Things were well prepped and I've had zero issues.

I also like the smaller tail, no issues. Spin recovery does take longer after a couple of turns, probably not an issue for you though.

DougJ said:

My tanks are sloshed and I watch them very closely. They were done right though, with slosh carefully applied only on the seams and aft bulkhead. Things were well prepped and I've had zero issues.

Click to expand...

Hi Doug - I have a neighbor with a very early 6 as well with the painted on slosh on the seams, done right, as you have described. We where chatting a few days ago as he has had zero issues, like yourself, but occasionally he finds a small spec or two in his fuel filter. How do you keep an eye on it? Our concern was pieces too large to get past the pick up screen building up and eventually blocking it. This might not show in his fuel filter.
The only serious issues I have heard about are big slabs coming off from totally sloshed tanks, so perhaps this isn't even a concern at all.

I basically follow the guidance in the Service Bulletin, although I don't open the gascolator every 25 hours. During the pre-buy I pulled both fuel drains, the carb inlet filter, and looked in the gascolator with nothing found but one tiny (about 1/16" square) piece of something white. I check the gascolator at oil changes and condition insp. Visual inspection through the cap and sump contents before each flight. I've not found anything else in the filters/sumps that looks like slosh.

DougJ said:

I basically follow the guidance in the Service Bulletin, although I don't open the gascolator every 25 hours. During the pre-buy I pulled both fuel drains, the carb inlet filter, and looked in the gascolator with nothing found but one tiny (about 1/16" square) piece of something white. I check the gascolator at oil changes and condition insp. Visual inspection through the cap and sump contents before each flight. I've not found anything else in the filters/sumps that looks like slosh.

Click to expand...

Thank you. I will refer him to the SB and your notes. Appreciated....

I stopped by the Van's facility shortly after I bought my -6, and questioned them about the issues with sloshed tanks. In addition to complying with the SB, it was advised that I change the pickup tubes to the Van's tube with the screen. Apparently, if the slosh does come loose, it will easily clog the homebuilt pickup tubes that have slots cut in them. The screen allows a greater filtering surface area.

Good point on the pickups, I failed to mention that. On the last condition inspection I had a bit of a fuel stain at the right sender. I pulled it all out, swapped in the new pickup and anti-rotation bracket. I still haven't done the left tank...

jetjok said:

.......Actually, the access is easy! it is the getting out event that brings nightmares

Click to expand...

I resemble that remark

Been stuck a few times...... Used to be a nonevent when I was 20 and working under F-4J panels.

Wanted to add to the OP that getting the plans set for a -7 firewall forward really helps laying out the firewall stuff (battery, cable exits, etc) really helps older -6 plan builders like me.

best mod

One of the best things I done to my 6 was inst panel that's in 3 parts and panels come out and lay in your lap no crawling under.
Bob