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RV-6 flap motor info

BruceMe

Well Known Member
I am rebuilding an rv-6 and the flap handle doesn't work right. I want to convert it. The Vans conversion kit is more $ than it should be. Does anyone know the specs on the linear actuator they use?

Thanks!
 
The specs say it's variable stroke, what is it?

There are a ton of options on this model. If anyone has bought one, the specifics would be great.
 
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Button popping out end of tube?

I am rebuilding an rv-6 and the flap handle doesn't work right. I want to convert it. The Vans conversion kit is more $ than it should be. Does anyone know the specs on the linear actuator they use?

Thanks!

Howdy Bruce,

Not working right. Does that mean the button is popping out of the end of the handle making it hard to retract the flaps? I had that problem and observed that the base of the hinge assembly was flexing the seat pan. I made a large doubler out of some 1/8" stock to ridgidize it some and the problem was solved. I like the manual flaps.

Ed
 
Bruce,

See this thread for an idea of getting flap motor from under the floor for better serviceability: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=132987

I'm planning on going this direction on my build since these motors are known to be problematic at times.

Thanks for the thread, it was a good read. But I'm a bit confused.

#1 it's not in the floor it's in the right passenger side boards, but it could work for an RV-6.

#2 it doesn't mention the motor drive or an alternative. Is there a more reliable linear drive motor recommendation?

I'm still waiting on someone who knows the linear drive details. ebay has a ton of linear actuators. I'm starting to do my own WAGs. This is going to start sounding like a 8th grade math word problem about moments... but here we go;

I measured the throw where one would install the stock electric as about 4".

From my own "arm-strong" flap history RV-3/4, it takes about 30lbs at VFE to extend a 24" lever. I measured the arm at 6" for the motor, that's 4x or 120lbs of dynamic load.

The actuators on ebay are typically rated around 225 lbs. So I think I've got it close.

So there are two options... Try to mount it more like stock in the middle, or try to install it up against the side wall per that RV-4 thread above, I actually like this way a lot, and I think I will pursue it first.
 
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Free wheel?

Does anyone understand how the free wheel aspect works? I am working on a hobby project in a much smaller scale and have made a similar yet smaller screw drive linear actuator. It would be really cool if I could free wheel at either end and then reverse without cross threading on the opposite direction.

Jim
 
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