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My squeezer pooped out. Now what?

KatieB

Well Known Member
Our old U.S. Industrial Tool 114A alligator squeezer has lost its power. I tried riveting some 1/8 in rivets tonight and it was feeble, even at 100 psi, and it looks to be seeping some oil. Has anyone fixed or rebuilt these themselves, or sent them in to U.S. Industrial Tool for repair? They cost over $700 new. (Ouch.) My little girly hands can squeeze 3/32 rivets ok but 1/8 is a bit painful. Any suggestions are appreciated. I tried using the search function first, but it doesnt work on my phone, Paul. ;) (household internet down.)
 
Katie, it might be simply that the tool needs a bit of lube. Give it a dozen or so drops of air tool oil down the air hose fitting. A few drops on the moving jaw also (there's a roller-ramp mechanism in there)

If that doesn't work, they're not hard to take apart. My guess is its just a bit gummed up.
 
When my old squeezer died I sent it to Clear Air Tools to be rebuilt and it came back better than new.

By the way, I was told by the guy who rebuilt mine to never put air tool oil into a squeezer, because it washes out the grease. So I don't, and my squeezer has been working like a champ for years now. The only lube I use is the occasional dab of Lubriplate on the ram.

mcb
 
Contact US Tool

Have you tried contacting US Tool to see if they have a spare parts kit for your squeezer? You may already have a parts list with the tool if you bought it new. The valve and piston seals will probably be simple o-rings. I have had most of my Chicago Pneumatic squeezer apart although not the main piston, and they are pretty simple inside, especially if you have an illustrated parts list.

When you operate the squeezer do you hear air escaping where it didn't before? May be the piston o-ring seal. If not obviously leaking, and if the air line pressure is actually 100 psi (don't laugh, I set my compressor regulator down to 70 psi for spray painting, and the squeezer is pretty anemic at this setting), it may simply need lubrication on the piston o-ring or the cam.
 
Have you tried contacting US Tool to see if they have a spare parts kit for your squeezer? You may already have a parts list with the tool if you bought it new. The valve and piston seals will probably be simple o-rings. I have had most of my Chicago Pneumatic squeezer apart although not the main piston, and they are pretty simple inside, especially if you have an illustrated parts list.

When you operate the squeezer do you hear air escaping where it didn't before? May be the piston o-ring seal. If not obviously leaking, and if the air line pressure is actually 100 psi (don't laugh, I set my compressor regulator down to 70 psi for spray painting, and the squeezer is pretty anemic at this setting), it may simply need lubrication on the piston o-ring or the cam.

There is no real piston O-ring. It is a leather seal (aka "cup" - part # 22), and it may have deteriorated if the tool was incorrectly oiled, as someone suggested earlier. There are a few small O-rings on the throttle valve though that should be inspected - Diagram E.

Don't oil it down the air inlet like your air drills.

This parts list will help you see what is inside your squeezer - use pictures A, D and E for your model -

https://www.ustool.com/pdfs/US114 Series.pdf
 
How hard can it be?

I don't know anything about air tools, but after looking at that drawing I say pull it apart, lube it up, and move on. If you can build an airplane you can do this with no trouble.
 
Katie:

I infer from your build website that you are fairly new into the building of your -3? I'm not sure of your background or abilities, but be aware that the force exerted by the pneumatic squeezer is not linear. If the ram is not allowed to travel much before it contacts the rivet it will not be able to squeeze it. Your squeezer may very well need an overhaul but I'm just making sure that you're aware of this because I've seen a lot of people scratching their heads with this issue.
 
Katie, it might be simply that the tool needs a bit of lube. Give it a dozen or so drops of air tool oil down the air hose fitting. A few drops on the moving jaw also (there's a roller-ramp mechanism in there)

If that doesn't work, they're not hard to take apart. My guess is its just a bit gummed up.

Be careful adding oil...my squeezer doesnt take oil, only grease. Mine is a newer version though, about 3 yrs old, so maybe its different.
 
Be careful adding oil...my squeezer doesnt take oil, only grease. Mine is a newer version though, about 3 yrs old, so maybe its different.

You are correct, don't oil it. The leather that forms the piston seal needs grease on assembly, not oil in the air inlet.

The design hasn't changed much since WWII, so the age of yours doesn't make a lot of difference....:)
 
Katie:

I infer from your build website that you are fairly new into the building of your -3? I'm not sure of your background or abilities, but be aware that the force exerted by the pneumatic squeezer is not linear. If the ram is not allowed to travel much before it contacts the rivet it will not be able to squeeze it. Your squeezer may very well need an overhaul but I'm just making sure that you're aware of this because I've seen a lot of people scratching their heads with this issue.


Agree. They work much better on the end of the stroke. With the 1/8 rivs it sometimes takes two passes to squeeze them sufficiently.

I doubt there is anything wrong with the tool.

I've seen worn out tools and yours doesn't look worn out.
 
Do you have an adjustable ram from Avery? If not that's what your problem is. Pneumatic squeezers are pretty simple inside and don't have many parts that would wear out.
 
Thanks--

I'll tinker with it tonight and see what happens.

Now I know why the "Tools" section is in the Never-Ending Debates...! :eek:
 
Squeezer

Interesting to see the parts diagram for the US Tool squeezer. I have a Chicago Pneumatic CP0214 'C' type squeezer (but same piston as alligator style). It has an o-ring seal on the main piston (2-136 size) and it is marked as a high wear item (only one in the entire parts list) to be inspected and replaced regularly. Instructions also say "Use and air line lubricator with air tool oil, adjusted to two drops per minute. If an air line lubricator cannot be used, add oil to the inlet once a day."

Obviously very different lubrication requirements between a leather seal and a rubber o-ring seal.
 
Interesting to see the parts diagram for the US Tool squeezer. I have a Chicago Pneumatic CP0214 'C' type squeezer (but same piston as alligator style). It has an o-ring seal on the main piston (2-136 size) and it is marked as a high wear item (only one in the entire parts list) to be inspected and replaced regularly. Instructions also say "Use and air line lubricator with air tool oil, adjusted to two drops per minute. If an air line lubricator cannot be used, add oil to the inlet once a day."

Obviously very different lubrication requirements between a leather seal and a rubber o-ring seal.

I wonder when they changed to a true piston and O-ring?

Most CP-214 units have the leather piston seal -

http://store-planetools.com/compressionrivetsqueezerparts.aspx
 
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