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Old 07-12-2018, 03:29 PM
TASEsq TASEsq is offline
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 111

Thanks Gents,

I think I’m going to just rivet the aft 8 holes comon to the skin/rib/attach strip, and also do the last rivet at this point common to skin/rib only (and maybe peel the te slightly open).

I’m going to drop a rivet in that hole on the bottom rib I’m worried about with a chopped off mandrel and check for fit and interference with the horn brace.

Art - thanks, I’ve read your blog a few times. My TC thought it was a really bad idea match drilling the angle through the assembly (especially steel) as flogging out those holes by having a running drill is not good.. But I like the idea of the angle to help keep things straight. So I’ve devised a dodgy plan! The holes in the TE wedge on the 14 are already drilled perpendicular to the cord and are likely 3/32. I’ve purchased some 3/32 brass tube and I’ll find a small drill bit (hopefully #41) that fits through. I can then clamp the wedge to an angle before it even meets the assembly, and use the tube as a drill guide / shim to protect the holes, and transfer the hole pattern to the angle - the tube should help me get the correct drill angle in the angle as well.

The reason for all this is I really don’t like the idea of marking the holes out and then drilling - I did this on the practice kit and it really doesn’t take much to get a hole off, putting bending stress on the assembly - exactly the opposite of what you are trying to achieve.

@Mike - found the thread you were referring to. I had commented about bucking one rivet against the other. But I think the above plan is better.

Thanks again for your ideas.
Trent Stewart
Melbourne, Australia
Dues paid until April 2019

Last edited by TASEsq : 07-12-2018 at 03:49 PM.
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Old 07-12-2018, 06:23 PM
StressedOut StressedOut is offline
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Fullerton, CA
Posts: 113

At least now when I rebuild my rudder I'll have a match drilled steel rectangular tube that I can use to hold the TE straight while it cures (I used Proseal). My TE was dead straight, but with messed up holes.
Art Jackson
RV-14A Kit#140433
Completed: Vertical Stab/Horizontal Stab
Scrapped: Rudder
Working on: Empennage (Elevator)
Construction log -
Dues paid on 10 October 2018
Member of EAA Chapter 92 (KCNO)
Pet peeve: "Lose" is the opposite of "find". "Loose" means "not tight".
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Old 07-13-2018, 02:29 PM is offline
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 20

I got to the same point in the past month and left those last 3 holes near the trailing edge while I ordered a thin nose yoke. But then kept going and then realized that after riveting the bottom spar and rudder horn, there was no way to open up the trailing edge (which already had the 3M tape applied) to get to those rivets without substantial rework.

I called the factory and they ok'd using MK-319-BS blind rivets in those 3 spots. I was bothered initially that it wouldn't be flush rivets there but got over it. All three went in well, even the very last one near the trailing edge. I slowly pulled it while pushing down and got it to set perfectly.

In the end I'm glad I went that route. I had the trailing edge set with the 3M tape and an aluminum angle. It riveted nearly perfectly straight. I think if i had to separate it out to get to those rivets, I might have mucked up that trailing edge.
Rich K.

RV-14A Kit #140477
Empennage in progress
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