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Bucking rivet in J-Channel

J

JDA_BTR

Well Known Member
I'm working on my tailcone, and have this rivet to set that is on the bulkhead but hidden by the J-Channel. Oh, if I had only riveted the bulkhead before putting the J-channel in but the plans don't read that way…..

So can anyone give me an idea of the right tool to get in there and buck that rivet. I can't back-rivet. My tungsten bar is too fat. My elevator TE bar is too fat. What bar is ideal - I'll have to get it.

thanks!

Pics:
http://www.atkinsonurology.com/RV14_Pics/IMG_1084.jpg
http://www.atkinsonurology.com/RV14_Pics/IMG_1085.jpg
http://www.atkinsonurology.com/RV14_Pics/IMG_1086.jpg
http://www.atkinsonurology.com/RV14_Pics/IMG_1087.jpg
http://www.atkinsonurology.com/RV14_Pics/IMG_1088.jpg
 
You may be able to slide something thin in there laying across the new rivet, and then back it up with a bucking bar as close as possible to the J-channel, kind of forming a T if that makes any sense. Hold the steel bar level with one hand and the bucking bar against it with the other. I've used this technique in a few areas, and the shop heads aren't always perfect, but completely acceptable and never visible again anyways. And I feel better for not having broken down and used a blind rivet.

Chris
 
You just need a bucking bar with a "foot" on it - like this one from Avery -

28.jpg


Also, maybe one with an angled end might work -

http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=6007
 
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If the tungsten bar won't lay flat, then you might just have to MAKE a bucking device. I have made at least 6 even with the stable of the tungsten and Avery assortment. I am in the process of making another one to set two rivets on the lower firewall where the motor mount blocks normal methods.

Just be sure to make it as hefty as will fit, and polish the face with one if your your scotchbrite devices.
 
BillL said:
Just be sure to make it as hefty as will fit, and polish the face with one if your your scotchbrite devices.
Click to expand...

Just be careful that you don't mix a Scotchbrite used on steel and any future aluminum part. Rust can and will form.
 
I've read that about the scotchbrite wheel. I've also read of people "dressing" the wheel to even it out. What is used to dress it if not steel?
 
That's what I thought, and the file would be made of steel? I'm just curious, not wanting to make a fuss?.
 
I think that my tungsten bar would work for the job. It also came in handy attaching the flap skin to the spar. the beveled edge is great.






It was $105, but I use it all the time.


Ken
 
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