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HS-702 and HS-00005 flange overlap

Lefty37

Member
While working on my horizontal stab, I trimmed my HS-702 flange in accordance with the instructions on creating the relief holes on the plans (DWG 3). After trimming I noticed that there is still some overlap between my HS-702 and HS-00005 flanges. While the plans do not indicate that this should be. Currently, I have 5/16th inch of edge distance to the first rivet, with a minimum distance of 1/4" required, I would like to avoid reducing that distance any further. Is the overlap okay? Should I trim away more? Can I trim the flange on the HS-00005 to make the the joint fit together better?
 
I?m having trouble following your description. You shouldn?t have to trim Hs-00005 at all. The forward rib (Hs-0006) does get trimmed to fit between the 710 and 714 spar bars so maybe you mean that?

Pictures help tremendously with a question like this.
 
Okay, thanks for your patience while I set up a photo site to share my work.

Here is a shot of the area that I was referencing. Notice how the flanges of my HS-702 are touching the flanges of my HS-00005.

sDSvsELocC2HKK2M6
 
Are you applying SB14-01-31.pdf as you go?

Brantel makes a good point here. The spar doublers from the service bulletin (which go on the aft side of the 702 spars) will push the HS-00005 ribs aft about 3/32". If that doesn't give you the necessary clearance, then just cut away more of the 702 flange. Take away as much as needed but make sure you maintain proper edge distance on the first hole in the 702 flange. By the looks of it, you can trim a whole lot more of the 702 flange before edge distance becomes and issue for you. Here is a picture of how mine came out. The gap is small, but they don't overlap.

i-twFXTsJ-L.jpg
 
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Are you applying SB14-01-31.pdf as you go?

Page 17 of the SB shows some overlap....

I thought I was, since the kit was new, the directions made no reference to the SB, and the spar doubler came predrilled with all the holes. I was under the impression that the instructions had been modified to incorporate the SB. Is this a bad assumption?
 
SB

I thought I was, since the kit was new, the directions made no reference to the SB, and the spar doubler came predrilled with all the holes. I was under the impression that the instructions had been modified to incorporate the SB. Is this a bad assumption?

No. You are correct in the case of the HS SB. I would recommend downloading all the SBs and becoming familiar with them. The elevator SB may not be included. I can't remember.
 
Most all SBs were in the kits I received over the last two years. That being said, definitely look at all the SBs and letters on Van's website, not everything worthy of knowing is in the SBs.
 
The instructions have been updated to reflect the doublers...I just checked. There is nothing in the SB that you HAVE to know since you'll be installing the doublers as you build (the SB is mainly for folks that need to retrofit), but reading it would fall into the "best practices" category. There no such thing as learning too much when it comes this this journey.

The one piece of valuable information that I did take away from the SB was on near the end (pg 17 maybe?) regarding edge distance. For the outboard most holes on the top of each doubler that get match drilled to the through the 702 spar and into the HS-710, edge distance of no less than 1.25D is acceptable (a deviation from the standard 2D). D in this case is the diameter of the rivet that will be set in the hole and the edge distance is measured from the CENTER of the hole, not from the edge of the hole.

Example: 1/8" rivet applying the 2D guideline requires that the edge of any material in which that hole is drilled is no closer then 1/4" to the center of the rivet hole.

Another tip worth considering is to build the vertical stab first. I actually paused my HS build and worked on the vertical for a period of time and found it much easier to assemble. The HS has a lot going in the center section and great care must be taken to get it all correct. Building the VS was a good confidence builder that made working the HS a more comfortable experience.
 
The instructions have been updated to reflect the doublers...I just checked. There is nothing in the SB that you HAVE to know since you'll be installing the doublers as you build (the SB is mainly for folks that need to retrofit), but reading it would fall into the "best practices" category. There no such thing as learning too much when it comes this this journey.

The one piece of valuable information that I did take away from the SB was on near the end (pg 17 maybe?) regarding edge distance. For the outboard most holes on the top of each doubler that get match drilled to the through the 702 spar and into the HS-710, edge distance of no less than 1.25D is acceptable (a deviation from the standard 2D). D in this case is the diameter of the rivet that will be set in the hole and the edge distance is measured from the CENTER of the hole, not from the edge of the hole.

Example: 1/8" rivet applying the 2D guideline requires that the edge of any material in which that hole is drilled is no closer then 1/4" to the center of the rivet hole.

Another tip worth considering is to build the vertical stab first. I actually paused my HS build and worked on the vertical for a period of time and found it much easier to assemble. The HS has a lot going in the center section and great care must be taken to get it all correct. Building the VS was a good confidence builder that made working the HS a more comfortable experience.


Totally agree with this post. Start with the VS. I took a break from the HS too and the VS was a breeze.
 
Okay, I think I'm getting the hang of it now. I trimmed down the HS-702 allowing for the edge distance to the first hole. Then I fit it together with the HS-00001 and the HS-00005. After a few test fits and a few more passes with the file I got it to fit together like this. I think I might be getting the hang of this...


https://photos.app.goo.gl/iKcacQ6fkZNNcRr17
 
Looks good. I personally didn't trim any of the rib, but I don't see a glaring issue with doing that in conjuction with trimming the 702.
 
Rivet hole

Okay, I think I'm getting the hang of it now. I trimmed down the HS-702 allowing for the edge distance to the first hole. Then I fit it together with the HS-00001 and the HS-00005. After a few test fits and a few more passes with the file I got it to fit together like this. I think I might be getting the hang of this...


https://photos.app.goo.gl/iKcacQ6fkZNNcRr17

Memory may not be good but I seem to remember an unused hole there in the skin that required a bit more relief for the shop head to clear. Like I said, I might be mixing up components.
 
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