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Rocker switch action and conventions

az_gila

az_gila

Well Known Member
Moved from another general thread...

This picture (stolen from Aerosport) shows the up/down question I had -

SwitchPanel2.jpg


In this pic I would say the middle switch is in the ON position, but I'm not sure if that is what the indicating lights say, or what the standard convention is. The switches will be mounted on the lower portion of a vertical instrument panel.

I was thinking I would prefer a two lamp switch with the upper section being the "label" and always illuminated, and a lit-up indicator (usually a line or oval on the Carling actuators) on the lower part of the switch coming on when the circuit is active.

Does this make sense? It is easily done with the switch in my post #7. The Aerosport switches for two lights have a not so simple ON/OFF/ON actuation.

Some options are here.

odM.jpg


Which do you think is the clearest and would the top or the bottom of the switch be depressed for the ON position?

With the correct switch the top and bottom text/icons would be separately back-lit, either continuously or when the circuit is activated.
 
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Keep in mind that those Carling switches that are "dual lamp/LED" are actually ON-OFF-ON (aka: three position switch) style double throw switches, well the ones most of the online retailers are selling.

While the LED's in the DPDT, dual indicator, switches can be independent from the switch position, I *think* that option is only available in the ON-OFF-ON switch. Most folks want an OFF-ON style switch.

When I was researching doing custom switch engraving using my 45w CO2 laser, I ran into some problems with trying to find Carlings in the configuration most builders wanted: Off-On, dual independent indicators. Or, Off-On with the indicators negative lead being switched (for LED's) to be used with a VPX.
 
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Gil - this one is pretty simple. Standard "switch-ology" for aviation is that a switch is in its normal ON position when moved UP or FORWARD. In the examples you've shown, the Master AVI switch is in the OFF position because the part of the switch closest to the pilot has not been pushed forward. Also, if you consider the hinge point of a standard toggle switch to be similar to the hinge point of the rocker, a downward motion of the toggle switch would create the same tactile response as moving a rocker switch by pressing on the lower half of its rocker. In both instances the expected response would be the item being controlled by the switch would be turned "OFF".

Since you've got some Grumman experience, go look at the rocker switches in your Tiger. You'll find you depress the top part of the switch (push it forward toward the panel) to turn the item on. Same deal with the switches in your photo.

With respect to legends and lighting, I would suggest the legend of the switch should be located where it is the most visible to the seated pilot. Depending on the number of degrees of "throw" involved in activating the rocker switch and the angles on the face of the switch, you might find that in the "OFF" position the upper half of the switch is tipped backwards far enough that it's difficult to read the switch legend. This ultimately is the situation you should avoid.

If I may be so bold as to suggest it, the "ON" indication, whether by simple illumination of an LED or a backlit "ON" legend, should be physically separated from the switch legend. For a moment just imagine you're looking at a row of switches, all with back lit legends. How much extra time would it take you to consciously verify amidst all that text that the additional "ON" text as illuminated? I believe you will find your eye will much more easily discriminate the status of the switch if that status annunciation is physically separated from the switch legend text.

With this having been said, the left pitot heat rocker switch would be the least desirable configuration, while either the center or the right-most pitot heat switch would be more desirable configurations.
 
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Not Correct

CubedRoot said:
Keep in mind that those Carling switches that are "dual lamp/LED" are actually ON-OFF-ON (aka: three position switch) style double throw switches, well the ones most of the online retailers are selling.

While the LED's in the DPDT, dual indicator, switches can be independent from the switch position, I *think* that option is only available in the ON-OFF-ON switch. Most folks want an OFF-ON style switch.

When I was researching doing custom switch engraving using my 45w CO2 laser, I ran into some problems with trying to find Carlings in the configuration most builders wanted: Off-On, dual independent indicators. Or, Off-On with the indicators negative lead being switched (for LED's) to be used with a VPX.
Click to expand...

NOT CORRECT.

If you look hard there are many variations. The switch I linked to in the "post #7" reference is a simple ON/OFF switch with two independent light circuits.

I will check today, but I believe the switches can be mounted upside down so ON can be top or bottom depressed.

Also note that the custom printed back-lit actuators are more of a symmetrical nature than the curved rockers in the Aerosport picture. I'll post a pic later today.
 
Carling Contura V switches are available with a dependent and independent LED. The independent LED can be powered by a lighting circuit, perhaps on when the NAV lights are on and controlled by a dimmer circuit. This would be the upper LED and light the "label" of the switch. The dependent LED is powered when the switch is in the ON position. This LED illuminates the lower bar on the actuator.

It then is easy to determine which switch is on by the lower indicators.

The switch data: http://www.carlingtech.com/sites/default/files/documents/V-Series_Details_&_COS_111213.pdf

And here are the custom actuators: https://rockerswitchpros.com/product/custom-rocker-switch-actuator/

Source for LED, two light switch: https://newwiremarine.com/product/red-led-on-off-spst/
 
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Canadian_JOY said:
Gil - this one is pretty simple. Standard "switch-ology" for aviation is that a switch is in its normal ON position when moved UP or FORWARD. In the examples you've shown, the Master AVI switch is in the OFF position because the part of the switch closest to the pilot has not been pushed forward. Also, if you consider the hinge point of a standard toggle switch to be similar to the hinge point of the rocker, a downward motion of the toggle switch would create the same tactile response as moving a rocker switch by pressing on the lower half of its rocker. In both instances the expected response would be the item being controlled by the switch would be turned "OFF".

Since you've got some Grumman experience, go look at the rocker switches in your Tiger. You'll find you depress the top part of the switch (push it forward toward the panel) to turn the item on. Same deal with the switches in your photo.

With respect to legends and lighting, I would suggest the legend of the switch should be located where it is the most visible to the seated pilot. Depending on the number of degrees of "throw" involved in activating the rocker switch and the angles on the face of the switch, you might find that in the "OFF" position the upper half of the switch is tipped backwards far enough that it's difficult to read the switch legend. This ultimately is the situation you should avoid.

If I may be so bold as to suggest it, the "ON" indication, whether by simple illumination of an LED or a backlit "ON" legend, should be physically separated from the switch legend. For a moment just imagine you're looking at a row of switches, all with back lit legends. How much extra time would it take you to consciously verify amidst all that text that the additional "ON" text as illuminated? I believe you will find your eye will much more easily discriminate the status of the switch if that status annunciation is physically separated from the switch legend text.

With this having been said, the left pitot heat rocker switch would be the least desirable configuration, while either the center or the right-most pitot heat switch would be more desirable configurations.
Click to expand...

Vern, thanks for the comments. Some of my confusion probably goes back to my youth (and recent 3 week trip) and the European toggle switch household light convention. :)

Carling even refers to European vs US standards in some of their switch literature.

Perhaps this now makes sense. Bottom always back lit and top words lit when active. It also tells you were to press to get it on.

odR.jpg


There is not much angular movement between on and off.
 
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az_gila said:
odR.jpg


There is not much angular movement between on and off.
Click to expand...

You could also label it "Push On"

If I were making my own switch covers, that is how I would do it.

Or, for the maximum of overkill for the OCD types--------switch identifying label in the center, top part labeled push on, bottom labeled push off.
 
I will have to agree with Mike. Standard convention is that the switch should be "on" in the up position. To me, that would be with the top of the switch pushed in.
 
az_gila said:
NOT CORRECT.

If you look hard there are many variations. The switch I linked to in the "post #7" reference is a simple ON/OFF switch with two independent light circuits.

I will check today, but I believe the switches can be mounted upside down so ON can be top or bottom depressed.

Also note that the custom printed back-lit actuators are more of a symmetrical nature than the curved rockers in the Aerosport picture. I'll post a pic later today.
Click to expand...

The switch you linked to has INCANDESCENT indicators, not LED, probably not worth investing in was my point. Carling DOES make a SPST switch with two independent LED indicators, but they are hard to find from most of these online "custom" etch suppliers (like rockerswitchpros.com).

When I was getting setup to become a retailer for those Carling Countours, they didn't have any suppliers that was selling a SPST, two LED independent indicators body. I would have had to buy them directly from Carling in lots of 2000. Now, that was about 4 years ago, so maybe a supplier in the US will sell in smaller lots now-a-days.

rockerswitchpros.com DOES NOT sell a SPST with dual independent indicators.
 
Mike S said:
I would say it was off.
Click to expand...

Correct, the illumination indicates the circuit status.

There is another version of the switch that is DPDT that illuminates based upon the position of the switch, either up or down. The switch on the left is my alternator switch. Up is the main alt, down is the standby, and in the middle is off.

The switch isn't lit in this photo and this is an early implementation of my original panel. It's been changed multiple times over the past five years of flying, including some of the switches. I couldn't find a better photo online.

FP14042013A000AT.jpg
 
Mike S said:
I would say it was off.
Click to expand...

Mike S said:
You could also label it "Push On"

If I were making my own switch covers, that is how I would do it.

Or, for the maximum of overkill for the OCD types--------switch identifying label in the center, top part labeled push on, bottom labeled push off.
Click to expand...

No Carling back lighting available for a center label. Pity, 'cos that would be a nice solution.
 
10,000 hr OK for lamps

CubedRoot said:
The switch you linked to has INCANDESCENT indicators, not LED, probably not worth investing in was my point. Carling DOES make a SPST switch with two independent LED indicators, but they are hard to find from most of these online "custom" etch suppliers (like rockerswitchpros.com).

When I was getting setup to become a retailer for those Carling Countours, they didn't have any suppliers that was selling a SPST, two LED independent indicators body. I would have had to buy them directly from Carling in lots of 2000. Now, that was about 4 years ago, so maybe a supplier in the US will sell in smaller lots now-a-days.

rockerswitchpros.com DOES NOT sell a SPST with dual independent indicators.
Click to expand...

At a 10,000 hr projected lifetime for the little incandescent lamps I'm fine with non-LED. :)

I wasn't going to rockerswitchpros.com. There is no need to buy the actuators and switch bodies from the same vendor. I previously linked to this one with two poles, ON/OFF and two independent lamps. I will be happy with that version, and so will VPX with the slightly funny wiring it needs. :)

https://otrattw.net/V-SERIES-SEALED-ROCKER-SWITCH-BODY-ONLY-DPST-NO-ROCKER.html

From Carling -

Incandescent - rated 10,000 hours
Neon - rated 25,000 hours
LED - rated 100,000 hours 1/2 life

I'm OK with that. Heck it's 5 times better than the Lycoming noise maker up front. :)
 
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rleffler said:
Correct, the illumination indicates the circuit status.

There is another version of the switch that is DPDT that illuminates based upon the position of the switch, either up or down. The switch on the left is my alternator switch. Up is the main alt, down is the standby, and in the middle is off.

The switch isn't lit in this photo and this is an early implementation of my original panel. It's been changed multiple times over the past five years of flying, including some of the switches. I couldn't find a better photo online.
Click to expand...

I was looking at that sort of option, but it seemed to me that mixing up two position ON/OFF switches with three position ON/OFF/ON switches in the same row may be a bit confusing, and possibly harder to label if you want back illumination of function.
 
Mike S said:
You could also label it "Push On"

If I were making my own switch covers, that is how I would do it.

Or, for the maximum of overkill for the OCD types--------switch identifying label in the center, top part labeled push on, bottom labeled push off.
Click to expand...

Mike, thanks for the comments. This is now what I am thinking.

odY.jpg


Bottom back-lit all of the time, top lit with a different color when circuit activated.

Or another variation closer to Verns suggestion, sort of an inverted version of the above. Now top back-lit all of the time and the lower oval being a simple circuit status indicator -

odl.jpg


At $10 a pop custom actuators are cheap, but I want to get the wiring sorted out now.
 
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az_gila said:
Mike, thanks for the comments. This is now what I am thinking.

odY.jpg


Bottom back-lit all of the time, top lit with a different color when circuit activated.
Click to expand...

Welcome, glad to help.

Can the script be moved higher up?
 
Having the always on light be on the bottom would be preferable.

Carlings will leak a bit of light around the edges of the switch, more so when the actuator is lifted up.

If you have the off position being "down" the actuator will be closer to the base of the switch body, keeping light leakage to a minimum. You could use the bottom light to illuminate your logo since its always on, AND when the switch is in the ON position, the actuator will be gapped up away from the switch base at the bottom, leaking the light towards your feet.

If you use the top light to indicate the circuit being ON, then it will only illuminate when the actuator is in the "ON" position, closing the gap between the base reducing light leakage. Leakage from the top would be critical in night ops, since it would be shining up into the canopy and everything else, including your eyes.

I have a whole bunch of 12v Carlings in storage from where I was tinkering with them considering selling them with custom etching. I have them in all sorts of combinations and wirings. If I can get a chance, I will mount a few up and wire them and shoot a video showing the light leakage.

There some photos on rockerswitchpros.com that illustrates:

This one shows the leakage from the top of the switch when its in the off position with a top illuminated:
IMG_1135-1024x768.jpg


This one from a well light shop:
Boat-Rocker-Switches-min.jpg



This one is probably the ideal way to handle the leakage:
DSC07349-min.jpg


Notice the switch on the right, its in the UP/ON position, so the leakage is all from the bottom due to the actuator raising on the bottom, and closing towards the switch body on the top.

When I was messing with the ones I had, I was a bit disappointed in the light leakage.
 
CubedRoot said:
Having the always on light be on the bottom would be preferable.

Carlings will leak a bit of light around the edges of the switch, more so when the actuator is lifted up.

....
When I was messing with the ones I had, I was a bit disappointed in the light leakage.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the comments.

Perhaps it might be better to drop the cute icons and go for simple :)

odr.jpg


Bottom always on, top on with circuit.
 
az_gila said:
Thanks for the comments.

Perhaps it might be better to drop the cute icons and go for simple :)

odr.jpg


Bottom always on, top on with circuit.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure. The leakage out of the front (etched portion) of the actuators weren't bad at all if memory serves correct. Just around from behind the actuator.

In the configuration you mentioned, with the always on light on the bottom (off) position to illuminate the icon light leakage may not be an issue. Since the top part of the actuator will be up away from the switch base, but the top indicator off.

When you push the top part of the switch to go "ON", it will close the gap between the actuator and the switch base on the top portion, and turn on the top indicator. Since the gap is now "closed" in the ON position, the leakage around the top wont be as bad.

I am having a hard time describing what I am meaning in text form..HAH. I'll dig up my old Carlings and etch out some actuators on my laser and stick them in a piece of panel. Then shoot a video of the lights in the dark so we can see how they look. They are very well built and the "click" of the switch feels really good though. Solid!
 
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I've asked rockerswitchpros.com about a custom switch with no upper icon and the text moved up.

Or maybe a custom upper icon that simple says "PUSH ON". That would place it up higher on the switch.

We'll see what they quote.
 
If they don't come through give me a shout. I think I still have a few contura V actuators and got pretty good etching them on my laser. I'll be happy to make some for you to get some feedback on them.

I'll try and dig them out this weekend along with all those switch bodies I had.
 
CubedRoot said:
If they don't come through give me a shout. I think I still have a few contura V actuators and got pretty good etching them on my laser. I'll be happy to make some for you to get some feedback on them.

I'll try and dig them out this weekend along with all those switch bodies I had.
Click to expand...

They answered quickly...:)

Looks like a $25 set up charge and then $12 per actuator, so if you order 5 actuators it's $17 instead of $10, not too bad for custom work.

I'm now preferring this with the PUSH ON text moved higher up and perhaps slightly larger-

odY.jpg
 
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Gil,

I really like your design! That is the look I am going for. Also- Minimize leakage at the top, with continuous lights on bottom = excellent idea. I need to figure out all my switches; nav lites, ldg lites, etc. before I order it all.

I just ordered the switch with 2 independent lights to figure out the circuitry. Plan to start with one, before I spend a lot of $ on the wrong switch. Already bought the wrong one once.
 
jtate747 said:
Also..... Is that $25 setup for each design, or for each order? That’ll make a significant difference.
Click to expand...

I believe it's for each order since it would be a single setup if it was a new "icon" that said "PUSH ON" in words.

Send an email and check with them, my second response wasn't too clear and I don't want to bug them until I'm ready with an order. :)
 
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If I missed this two or three pages ago my apologies, I'm assuming these will meet all the relevant FAA placard requirements, even when not lit?
 
vernon smith said:
If I missed this two or three pages ago my apologies, I'm assuming these will meet all the relevant FAA placard requirements, even when not lit?
Click to expand...

Good question even though we are Experimental.

This is the relevant text from the new Part 23 certification standards -

? 23.2605 Installation and operation.

(a) Each item of installed equipment related to the flightcrew interface must be labelled, if applicable, as to it identification, function, or operating limitations, or any combination of these factors.

(b) There must be a discernible means of providing system operating parameters required to operate the airplane, including warnings, cautions, and normal indications to the responsible crewmember.

(c) Information concerning an unsafe system operating condition must be provided in a timely manner to the crewmember responsible for taking corrective action. The information must be clear enough to avoid likely crewmember errors.


? 23.2610 Instrument markings, control markings, and placards.

(a) Each airplane must display in a conspicuous manner any placard and instrument marking necessary for operation.

(b) The design must clearly indicate the function of each cockpit control, other than primary flight controls.

(c) The applicant must include instrument marking and placard information in the Airplane Flight Manual.

I would say the above requirements are met with the proposed switch markings, even with no backlighting. Note each switch is either ON or OFF - no three position switches.

Updated version with back-lit indicator "ovals" like the Carling standards for active circuits.

odG.jpg
 
az_gila said:
Good question even though we are Experimental.

This is the relevant text from the new Part 23 certification standards -

? 23.2605 Installation and operation.

(a) Each item of installed equipment related to the flightcrew interface must be labelled, if applicable, as to it identification, function, or operating limitations, or any combination of these factors.

(b) There must be a discernible means of providing system operating parameters required to operate the airplane, including warnings, cautions, and normal indications to the responsible crewmember.

(c) Information concerning an unsafe system operating condition must be provided in a timely manner to the crewmember responsible for taking corrective action. The information must be clear enough to avoid likely crewmember errors.


? 23.2610 Instrument markings, control markings, and placards.

(a) Each airplane must display in a conspicuous manner any placard and instrument marking necessary for operation.

(b) The design must clearly indicate the function of each cockpit control, other than primary flight controls.

(c) The applicant must include instrument marking and placard information in the Airplane Flight Manual.

I would say the above requirements are met with the proposed switch markings, even with no backlighting. Note each switch is either ON or OFF - no three position switches.

Updated version with back-lit indicator "ovals" like the Carling standards for active circuits.

odG.jpg
Click to expand...

I like this version personally. Easily identifiable, markings re congruent with keeping light leakage to a minimum, and easy to tell when its on or off.
 
Re: light leakage

Is there anything that can be done to the back side of these switches to mitigate the light leakage? Can you opacify the leaking areas with black paint buildup, for instance?
 
az_gila said:
At a 10,000 hr projected lifetime for the little incandescent lamps I'm fine with non-LED. :)
Click to expand...
Note that the 10000hr life is when continuously illuminated. Incandescent bulbs life goes down precipitously with increased on-off cycles. Maybe they've factored some of that in to the life, but it would be hard to know what duty cycle they had in mind for it.

There could be wide variation between a master switch that toggles once a flight, and a fuel pump, smoke system, flap switch, etc. that may actuate multiple times per flight.
 
az_gila said:
Getting closer. If I move the external light switches away, I have a row of 6 on the Aerosport panel pilot side -

odw.jpg
Click to expand...

This will be personal preference, I understand, but as an industrial designer I would say that a row of "Push On" text kind of looks messy. Simple oval spots as shown in one of the earlier photos could light up to show that the switch has been activated. I don't think anyone will need instructions how to use a rocker switch, so "push on" is also kind of redundant. Just my $0.02...

Oh, and I would move "Master Power" up to be in-line with the text on the other switches. Can leave the icon space blank, but it would look better if the text was all aligned.
 
Snowflake said:
This will be personal preference, I understand, but as an industrial designer I would say that a row of "Push On" text kind of looks messy. Simple oval spots as shown in one of the earlier photos could light up to show that the switch has been activated. I don't think anyone will need instructions how to use a rocker switch, so "push on" is also kind of redundant. Just my $0.02...

Oh, and I would move "Master Power" up to be in-line with the text on the other switches. Can leave the icon space blank, but it would look better if the text was all aligned.
Click to expand...

I agree it would look better, but my initial question was about which way is ON for a rocker switch - check the earlier posts - and the ON vs OFF labelling came into play. I checked with an AA pilot and he agreed with me on direction issues, but he was also born in Europe. :)

The Master Switch label locations were improved in the latest picture just above.
 
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Snowflake said:
Note that the 10000hr life is when continuously illuminated. Incandescent bulbs life goes down precipitously with increased on-off cycles. Maybe they've factored some of that in to the life, but it would be hard to know what duty cycle they had in mind for it.

There could be wide variation between a master switch that toggles once a flight, and a fuel pump, smoke system, flap switch, etc. that may actuate multiple times per flight.
Click to expand...

This is what Carling says. The bulbs are 80 mA at 12 volts.

Incandescent lamps can accommodate the full range of lens colors, including blue and green. Incandescent lamps offer dispersed beam brightness whose intensity is measured in mean squared candlepower (MSCP). They were once considered the brightest of lamp offerings, however current LED technology can now match incandescent brightness.

Typical incandescent bulb life is 10,000 - 25,000 hours, depending on voltage. Bulb life can also be adversely affected by shock and vibration, voltage swings, and temperature rise. Incandescent lamps can also be susceptible to DC notching, where current flow in one direction can cause a notch to form on the filament. This "cuts" or reduces the cross section of the filament, thus causing it to weaken and eventually cease to function.

The planned ones in the picture are typically used only once or twice per flight. If the lamp life is lowered by a factor of five I'll still be happy. If a boost pump is only used for 10-15 minutes per flight, it will still take a lot of flight hours to reach 500 hrs bulb on time.
 
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Carling switch position

All of my switches are Carling, and mine are set up to push the top in to energize. The LEDs in the top part also illuminate then.
 
One more

Snowflake said:
This will be personal preference, I understand, but as an industrial designer I would say that a row of "Push On" text kind of looks messy. Simple oval spots as shown in one of the earlier photos could light up to show that the switch has been activated. I don't think anyone will need instructions how to use a rocker switch, so "push on" is also kind of redundant. Just my $0.02...

Oh, and I would move "Master Power" up to be in-line with the text on the other switches. Can leave the icon space blank, but it would look better if the text was all aligned.
Click to expand...

One more variation based on Rob's comments. Add a "label for dummies" as a separate strip above the switches. It does make the switches look neater. The oval icon would illuminate to give a quick visual indication of ON -

odZ.jpg
 
az_gila said:
One more variation based on Rob's comments. Add a "label for dummies" as a separate strip above the switches. It does make the switches look neater. The oval icon would illuminate to give a quick visual indication of ON
Click to expand...

YES. That looks great. Tell them *once* how to use the switches, and it's clear it applies to all of them.
 
Thanks to all

Snowflake said:
YES. That looks great. Tell them *once* how to use the switches, and it's clear it applies to all of them.
Click to expand...

Yes, and a thanks to all that commented. I think this will be the final design, and it is interesting to see the progression to get to this result.

Only two custom items needed from rockerswitchpros.com - an upper oval and the modern electronics on/off symbol/icon which is not in the library. Hopefully it won't be too expensive.
 
Led Indicators

It does seem LED indicators for the carling v series rockers are hard to find. But would this work it is in stock V1D1KXXB-000-XLU1 Carling Rocker Switch On-Off with 2 Blue Leds, Single Pole, Spade terminals from spemco.
 
RV10Pilot said:
It does seem LED indicators for the carling v series rockers are hard to find. But would this work it is in stock V1D1KXXB-000-XLU1 Carling Rocker Switch On-Off with 2 Blue Leds, Single Pole, Spade terminals from spemco.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately it doesn't have two poles which make the VPX switch hook-ups much better.

Two blue LEDs would look good though. :)
 
Well, good news. I found a gang of 5 Carlings in my shop storage, and about 25 laser etchable blank actuators from when I was tinkering with these things a few years ago.

I also found a metric ton of the APEM switch covers and a couple of APEM switches (These are the exact ones that Aveo used for their RockRack switches a long time ago).

They are in a 5 gang bank, and they are white, blue, amber, red and green LED lighted.

They are single pole, single throw, with the top and bottom indicators individually wired (they have their own terminals). These are the OFF-ON switches that can be wired to carry a +12v load of several amps, or even a switched ground for VPX wiring. I'll wire them up to mimic a VPX install

I'll get them wired up on my 12v bench power, and laser cut a jig for them. I couldn't find my old jig :-( Once I have the jig made up, I'll etch out a couple of these blanks with the artwork in this thread, so you can see how they'd look in each of the colors and combinations.

The blues are SUPER SUPER bright, so are the whites, I hooked the indicators up to see what color they were and those two were blindingly bright without actuators on them.

Is there any specific layouts or icons y'all want to see? A good variation would be better for me, so I can find the right power/speed/DPI settings on my laser to get a good quality etch on these guys.
 
I like the discussions in this thread and am most likely going to use the dual independent lights Gil mentioned and the oval (ON) at the top of the switch.

I am thinking of installing the following Carling switches in mine;
Master
ALT
Avionics Master
Nav Lights
Strobe Lights
Boost Pump
Pitot Heat Landing Light

and Maybe -
Cabin Light (Glareshield LED)
Panel (switch) Lights
I am still playing around with how I am going to work all (or most of that) with my VPX box.
Also if I understand it right, you can dim LED lights, but you have to use a "pulse" dimmer. Not sure how well this works, so that is why I am thinking of installing switches to have the ability to completely turn OFF those lights. I am leaning toward a dial for those now - with an OFF detent.
 
az_gila said:
One more variation based on Rob's comments. Add a "label for dummies" as a separate strip above the switches. It does make the switches look neater. The oval icon would illuminate to give a quick visual indication of ON -

odZ.jpg
Click to expand...

I'll try to engrave a couple actuators like these tonight and stick on this 5 gang of switches I have so you can see how it looks.

Heres a preliminary video I did for another thread thats similar in discussion:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cyA_-9YOK8M

I'm going to laser cut a "panel" to hold this 5 switch gang after work today, and then etc a couple of actuators with these graphics to get a feel for the power/speed settings I need. I'll shoot a video of that tonight when I get them done.

I will say, the actuator I done in that video above, you can see the closer the engraving is to the center of the switch the better it illuminates. I can etch any portion of the actuator with anything techincally, but the closer it is to the edge, the fainter it illuminates.
 
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